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59bisquik

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Everything posted by 59bisquik

  1. I was thinking the 3.55 with the R10 would be perfect for the highway and still have a bit down low for street light to street light fun. I have plenty of torque with the 325. Guess I will have to experiment. That's a big jump from the 3.73 I have now.
  2. Ugh... the 8 3/4 is a 2.76. That I think is way too high. I was hoping for a 3.55.
  3. Picked up a bunch of free goodies this weekend! Spare rolling chassis to replace my bent frame. 8 3/4 rear end. Still gotta check the ratio. Stock water pump mounted front motor mount. I have bought a couple of these and none of them have fit so I built side mounts. This one I took off a hemi that was in his 56 truck. Should be good to go!
  4. Yup... it is a brand new Hilborn unit. Sold back in 2002 or so the Hot Heads and never converted to EFI or used. Sent you a message Jeff!
  5. Little teaser of what's to come... it will take a while to get the rest of the goodies and such.
  6. Head over to https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com and find the thread size you need in the weld in bungs category. That will dictate the ID DOM tube you need and then you can go from there. I have built a rock crawler and a sand car with their stuff... I generally overkill it quite a bit. It's up to you if you want .250 wall or smaller. They have a great selection and all the info you will need.
  7. I know mine is a later model truck, but I had a bent tie rod also. I generally overkill stuff and built my own out of .250 wall DOM tubing with left and right thread welded in bungs. I always use Ruff Stuff Specialties for my offroad fabrication supplies and this fit the bill and works perfectly.
  8. Those should work. They have plenty enough threads to run aluminum wheels too.
  9. I got the 718-8235 studs from Jegs. 1/2''-20 x 1-1/2" .615'' Knurl. Then grab a 39/64" drill bit. If your gonna put the disc on the stock hub, I have heard you should have it milled to make sure its flat or the disc can wobble and spread the pads. Somebody did that mod on here before and suggested it.
  10. Locomotives back in the 90's had a system called Lubrizol. It put crankcase oil into the fuel system to burn off. Then when the unit was fueled they would also top off the crankcase with oil. The thought was you would always have clean oil.
  11. The box bolts go thru them. I used a stable mat from tractor supply and cut out the pieces I needed. Mine didnt have any rubbers either. I just looked at what others did and made my own. Not the best picture, but here is one the rear mounts.
  12. I just used 1/2" thick rubber pads all around on my 55. They will squish down a bit.
  13. Nope... I drive mine quite a bit but only carry lawn chairs and an ice chest. I also run the Willys shorter shackles. The front spring have only 1 leaf removed and are flat or even arched the opposite direction. BTW, a shackle flip in the back will give about the same drop and can be done with a full spring pack if carrying a load is a concern. You only have to trim a little of the bed side under the fenders. I did that originally but prefer the smoother ride.
  14. The first pic is with worn out factory springs and added overloads. Notice they are pretty flat anyway. The second is a new set of springs with 3 leafs removed.
  15. I have not done coilovers, but if you want a smoother ride and lower stance, you can remove leaf springs from the pack. I removed 3 starting at the second from the bottom and remove every other one until your ride height is where you want it. I believe I have 4 leafs left. Free and easy...
  16. The High and Mighty... One of the chief engineers of that car is my buddies father who passed away a few years ago. They called him "Mr. Hoover".
  17. Sluggish... it's a great idea but it's for 53 and earlier that have a completely different steering setup.
  18. Need to pull the flywheel off. Its 4 or 6 bolts depending on the flywheel.
  19. If anybody likes to play drag racing games on thier phones/ipads etc, CSR Classic now offers a Dodge B Series as one of the old hotrods you can race. I was getting my daughter updated on her games last night and ran across it.
  20. Great story and looking forward to your build. Looks like you have a pretty solid start! I have a 55 and added the Scarebird front disc kit and used a Corvette dual master cylinder. It stops good and I dont think I need to add a power booster unit. I am going to add rear discs in the future and think it will stop even better. I did swap in a 3.73 differential from a 54 Plymouth which helped with the cruising speeds. I am still working on some sort of overdrive transmission. I have a full build thread on here with all of the mods and upgrades I have done. Post up pics and ask away with the questions!
  21. I would be curious as to what the front of the frame looks like. I have looked at my frame pics and the others who have posted pics of theirs. I would venture to say that is not a c series frame. The hard part would be figuring out what it actually is. After looking at your pics, it appears you have independent from suspension. With that said and looking at the canted rear spring hangers, I an gonna guess 72 up Dodge pickup which will help in getting the right parts. Below is a frame diagram I found of a 72+ and a 77 truck with the bed off. Hope this helps.
  22. With Viva cancelled, I have slowed down a bit but still working on the R10. 1 gear replaced and 1 to go. Then clean it up and slap it back together.
  23. Nostalgia Sids Dropped Axles - https://www.droppedaxles.com/ Scarebird Disc Brake Conversions - https://www.scarebird.com/
  24. The original bulls eye headlights can be found as burnt out used units on ebay and then converted to modern plug in bulbs. There is a thread in the tech forum and a couple pics in my 55 C1B build thread.
  25. Got it in today. It's a little heavier than it was before but not really stiff. I had them rebuild it to stock since they said it was so worn. Once I get the tranny back together I will see if its slipping. If so. I will have them put in the extra heavy springs.
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