Bob Ritter
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Everything posted by Bob Ritter
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I have 4 of these grille bars hanging in my garage, all are different sizes. I think they came off of Plymouths. I would need the measurements to determine if they will fit. (rritter2@ca.rr.com)
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I bought a bunch of rubber O-rings at Habor Freight in a kit they sell, and found a couple that fit the windshield arms. Bob Drake also sell these garments may also have the clips. (800-221-3673) (www.bobdrake.com))
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I prefer using bedliner paint, comes in black and dries hard. Comes in aerosol cans already mixed just a little masking and your done. Two cans will do the whole floor. I do like Rustoleum engine paint in fact I use it on my small brackets...
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Jegs sales hydraulic hood hinges, check with them.(800-345-4545)
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That grille panel needs to be sandblasted or acid dipped to remove all the rust. And the bottom section needs a piece of metal behind that rusted out piece to reinforce it. Then clean it up with some Bondo. I use cheap Harbor Freight spot welder on projects like this. My back ground is in body work and paint so this how a body guy would do it.
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I had the same problem with my grille. What I did was cut the bolts off at the base of the clip and then wire bush the rust off. Then centerpunched the bolts and drilled a quarter inch hole and installed the new from the bottom and braised them in. Worked great...
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Had accident with my newly completed 52 Dodge Coronet
Bob Ritter replied to Marty C's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Great fine nothing like having a parts car, if you have the room... It don't look like you have any frame damage, from the pictures it looks like the damage went over the front bumper. But be sure to check the front frame horns, the frame specifications are in the parts manual. This is a great form for information, but the classified are a little minimal. I have been finding Facebook to be a good source for parts... -
If the master cylinder is working and no leaks why not add a return spring. I would mount it at the push rod pin. Take a look at the clutch return spring and see how it is mounted...
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You know Facebook has a lot of Mopar parts for sale it may be a good source to find what you are looking for. This forum here is great for information, but the classifieds adds are every minimal. I bet the Plymouth 7-passenger body would be the same the difference would be the tail lights and the deck lid emblem.
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If I were doing this repair I would shop around for a rear section from one of the wrecking yards, or maybe one of our Mopar Brothers has a parts car. Putting in a section would save a ton of welding and you have a lot more damage than just the floors. I can't help but wonder what the rest of the car looks like. Best of luck with your project...
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Moores Auto Salvage may have what you are looking for, or could tell you where to look... 1716 Country Rd. So. Dakota 57701 605/348/4926
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If it were me, I would replace the head gasket, you may need to have the head resurfaced. It is a lot of work, but well worth it. You may want to take compression reading. It looks like it has been leaking for while.
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Some times tightening the screws will eliminate the leak. When I have to remove a molding from a rubber seal, I use a heat gun it keeps from tearing the rubber seal. Puttie knife works great..
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I'm not a fan of undercoat because it is a oil base material. I like to use bed liner spray material it comes in aerosol cans and can be used on bear metal and dries quickly to a hard finish...
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Confused ground short in the rear light wiring?
Bob Ritter replied to OUTFXD's topic in P15-D24 Forum
When you the same color wiring I would suggest that you use colored heat shrink sleeving to identify where the wires go. You can find a complete kit on Ebay. -
What is the difference between the 1948 Desoto 4-dr. Sedan and the Suburban? Is it the roof rack and maybe some inside trim. The 1950 Plymouth Suburban that I have is basically a 2-dr. station wagon. I don't believe I have seen 1948 Suburban, love the full grille on these cars.
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I'm using a universal body to frame Cushing Systems they are called Skok-liner they come in a kit of different sizes, I used the 3/8 kit. I purchased the nut and bolts, washer from my local parts store. These rubber mounts are interlocking and very easy to work with. My 1950 Plymouth suburban body mount are very easy to see. Bob Drake is where I purchased the kit. (800-221-3673) Be sure to get a catalog...
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Any of the major brands will work...
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I agree California paint costs are high, I purchase my paint material from Auto Body Tool Mart and the brand they sell is Kirker (800/382/1200) I order by mail and the shipping is about what the California tax would be. Be sure to get one of their catalogs...
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I agree aerosol spray can be cheaper and not as much clean up. I think the question you want to ask yourself is do I want a mediocre job or something super nice. I use Kirker primers and clears, but any major band will work good, and I agree that you should use the same product from start to finish. In closing let me say it is the preparation that makes the paint job.
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The way I would handle that project, I would drop those parts off at the sand blaster even the pot metal parts, the metal is a little softer but it sands and holds paint just like regular metal. Next if I was going to paint the dash the same kind of blue, I would add a little black to the blue for the insert panels so that they were a little darker. I always use epoxy primer because it fills with a couple of coats and seals at the same time.
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Moores Auto Salvage 1716 Country Road So. Dakota 605/348/4926 www.mooresauto salvage.com
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I like to use a tranquil charger once a month for about 6 to 8 hours. First I disconnect the ground wire and check the battery water level and let the charger do it's job. The charger turns it's self off when it's fully charged. I also leave the battery disconnected until I get ready to drive the car. I don't see the need to remove the battery.
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Let us be honest that instrument panel is a mess and nothing you do to it is going to help. I would suggest finding another one and out of the two make one nice one, they are not hard to find. Every time you sit behind the wheel your going to be looking at the instrument panel. They are pretty simple to restore and you would be surprised how good they look when your done. I can help with the rebuilt have some pictures.
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The other thing I like about the Ford rear end is that it has the same bolt pattern as the Plymouth, meaning you can use the Plymouth stock wheels...
