Dartgame

I think you can use that module, but its more common and well known to use the earlier style 4 pin module. The 4 pins were used in GM distributors for their first generation HEI. These are the distributors that had the module mounted inside the distributor cap with the coil on top. I used a heat sink from a 1990's into to the 2000's chevy v8, lots of them in the boneyards on trucks, suburbans etc. You will need to file off one of the fins on the heat sink to fit the 4 pin module. Might as well take the coil pigtails and associated steel brackets the heat sink is mounted to, with the coil and so on if you want to use that style. You can modify them to suit your mounting position etc. I used a Ford Ecore coil and bracket from a 1990's mustang or Tbird.

For the seals on the retainer bolts, go to your local hardware and find some 0-rings that fit the bolts snugly, should be 5/16" ID, and fit in the retainer recess. probably 1/16" wall o-ring will do the trick. I just re-assembled my overdrive trans a day ago and found the retainer o-rings were okay. I slobbered them up with permatex #2 and sent them. For the overdrive to gear box bolts, the o-rings were toast, I found #8 o-rings worked nicely, and I sent them slobbered with permatex #2. I'm guessing the standard 3 spd trans uses o-rings on the bolts for the trans extension to gear box too. Silicone could work, if everything is pristinely clean. Permatex #2 doesnt care if its perfectly clean....

You use a 4 spade connector GM HEI module. For details take a look at this link - https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779 I used this system and it works very well !

Do a search for VW beetle 12 volt to 6 volt wiper. I found and built my own voltage adapter using info for VW's. http://vw-resource.com/wiper1.html

To my knowledge the 4 bolt flywheel and cranks are for 218's. Furthermore there is supposed to be an offset on 218 vs 230 flywheels. Not sure why chrysler did that; but an easy way to check would be to install the flywheels on your motor and check the offset.

I see, I'd still try and test the pressure of the mechanical pump. Did you install a different intake/carb set up ? Dual one barrels might cause the starvation?

I am not sure if there is a real difference between the two. When you say fuel delivery issue are you saying you added the electric pump to resolve the issue ? You may have a bad mechanical pump. Run a few diagnostic tests. Without the electric pump running, hook in a fuel pressure gauge between the carb and mechanical pump run the engine and see what the result is, most vacuum gauges can be used for this purpose. I did this and found the pressure will vary between 1-4 psi at idle. If there is no reading, probably a bad pump. Remove it and look for a wear mark on the pump arm where it contacts the cam eccentric, no marks? Then obviously the cam eccentric is not working the pump. Is the cam eccentric is worn down ? Maybe there is a difference in truck vs car pumps, I doubt it though.

Mine are manual and they work great! Master power had both power and manual cylinders when I bought mine, not sure if both are still available.

I'm not much help with the numbers, but if its a ten inch B&B it should fit and function just fine. The only critical thing to observe might be the number and tension of the springs on it. I can tell you my car's flywheel had two clutch patterns on it, and I believe most will as well, 9 1/4 and 10". If you post the bolt pattern cross dimension I can compare it to mine and let you know.

master power brakes makes an under the floor remote reservoir MC. I put one in my car.

Thanks Sam. My car is a 40 K survivor, with little to nothing done to the engine or trans. It does not have the lower insulators just a thin rubber washer and a steel washer under the drivers side and only a steel washer under the right side. After reading a bunch of posts during a trans mount search here, it became kind of apparent that the lower mounts are missing from many of the cars and situations I read about, leading me to believe the lower mounts were not used in most cases. I believe Mopar fooled us a little with the lower bushings. I don't think they were used as widely as depicted in the service manual. Anyway - I bought a pair of those Marmon motor mounts from rock auto a while back - the rubber seems soft enough but what concerns me is they appear to be taller than the originals. I found during a search another member here had measured the height of some nos mounts and that measurement was 1.22 inches. The marmon mounts are 1.40 tall. Would you think using taller rear mounts would pose an issue with driveshaft inclination, enough to be worried about?

Who's mounts have you used, and were you happy with them ?

Do you have a friend thats done a re-assembly of an engine ? That would be a great help to you. Otherwise as stated above take your time and I'd measure all your clearances as you go. check this guys video.

My chemistry lab experience working with epoxies tells me I'd hesitate to use an epoxy in this situation. Epoxy will burn at 350F; lower than the temps inside a cylinder.

DJ - I cleaned out the governor when I had the trans down and checked its function, but not speed. Is it possible there were different gears used, meaning more or less teeth which would change the speed at which the governor activates ?

I believe the main difference in wiring and devices for the overdrive are the solenoids, either 6 volt or 12 volt. If your system is 12volts you need 12 volt solenoid. I dont think there is a difference in the governors - they are a speed activated switch. I used the old 6 volt governor in my wiring and it works fine. The service manual tells you that the governor closes the circuit at about 25 mph. I found in my case its more like 45 mph.

The rocker molding mounts on my 52 plymouth look similar. For the very front there is a stud attached to a piece of metal that slides into the point of the molding and goes thru the oval fender hole and is bolted in place. The rectangular openings use a formed flat piece of steel that snaps on to the moulding. Those clips fit into the rectangular opening and a tab is bent inside to lock it into place. The rear most clip is similar to the front except it bolts to the underside of the rocker panel. There should be 4 or 5 of those rectangular openings spaced evenly along the rocker panel taking into account the rear most clip. I found NOS rectangular clips on ebay from seller old plymouth cafe 206-778-2167, Neil - or Seaplym@hotmail.com. I think he is in Oregon, and I think he is associated with wildcat wrecking in Sandy Oregon? The front and rear most clips are unique pieces and are probably going to be tough to find, used is probably your only option. You might consider using modern plastic stud based mounts, studs can be spot welded to the rocker panel for mounting.

I'd pull the inspection plate and see if it is drilled for another pattern. If its stock size now, probably 9 1/4. Next size up is 10". 10" stuff is kind of hard to locate. For throw out bearings get an oem part number and cross it to alternate brands. I just did this for my car, low and behold mopar used the same throw out bearing and sleeve from about 1950 into the 80's. Lots of choices. I went with a self aligning type. I couldn't find an angular contact bearing with out doing a lot more research. I'm sure timken or SKF has one, but you'd need all the specs for the bearing itself, search through a bunch of bearing part numbers to find it; and then have to press off the old bearing and press on the new yourself.

Los - that appears to be a lean burn dizzy. Not useful for the conversion. Maybe Sniper can use it?

sniper - see if you find a small block lean burn dist. The upper part of the shaft is removable on them, graft that on to the flathead dist shaft and maybe that's your solution...

If I install one it will be the only pump in use on the car.

Sniper - have you had the lean burn dist. apart yet ? The upper sleeve on them should be compatible with the flathead main shaft. At least that's what I'd seen on small block lean burn dist. The mechanical advance slots are locked in such a way as to eliminate any advance movement, and the lower shaft is the same as a normal dist.

Los - any stock mopar electronic slant six distributor will work (1972 - 1980's) except for a lean burn type. You reuse the lower shaft from the flathead, and the upper mechanical advance sleeve (if you will) from the slant distributor, that slips over the lower shaft. In addition you re-use the slant's breaker plate, vacuum advance etc. Most challenging part is turning down the body of the dist. to fit in the block. More succinctly think of it as reusing the slant dist., with the lower shaft from the flat head dist.

I am considering installing one on my car. Years ago I used a holley red pump on a hopped up Dart and it was noisy even though I isolated its mounting using rubber, and rubber lines as well. Mallory makes a gerotor type pump that is supposed to be quiet. But I did no further investigation - expensive $300+. I've not used one since and am curious about your experiences. I see a lot of different manufacturers of electric fuel pumps, cheapy types, in lines, carter, holley etc. Comments ?

Why not get a used slant 6 electronic distributor? That's what I used when I did the conversion a year ago. I bought a spare at the mopar nats this year for $10. Cleaned it up and everything works on it, including the vacuum advance... you are in west Texas - right ? Take a hop down to the local bone yard that has old cars/trucks in it. Bet you find one.