Dartgame

1990's to early 2000's cherokee, not grand cherokee. This is not a drop in. Has the right width and 3.55 : 1 ratio in most of them and cheap in bone yards. you'll need to weld in new spring perches and a new driveshaft to convert the whole mess.

It's a debate about who makes the best plug, and that's not my intention. The plugs I use are NGK, autolite a close second. Those I will avoid are champion.

Not sure I understand the issue. With mine there is a mounting pattern as you noted, and all 6 line up on mine. It should be a matter of spinning the pulley and balancer to the position that the all bolt holes line up ? But as sniper noted you can pull the hub and verify as needed. Please post what you find, it would be interesting to know how this works out for you.

hub goes on first, next pulley, then damper.

Okay so I've not lost it. This looks like it is going to be fun installing the flywheel. I wonder, how does one figure out how to torque the nuts? Tighten as well as you can and call it good ? I read the torque on the 218 flywheel was 55-60 ft lbs in the FSM. I assume its similar for a 230 ? I don't have those specs.

So, I'm getting ready to finally install the rebuilt 230 in my car. I have the correct flywheel and the bolts that attach it to the crank. What I am running into is something that has me scratching my head. On the 218 I'm replacing, the crank to flywheel bolts go into the crank from the engine side. With the 230 I have that is not possible - because the flats of the bolt heads have nothing to stop against. The flywheel has the provision for the flats to stop turning when inserted from the flywheel side. Is this normal ?

40-50 years ago we had a 41 coupe with similar clips for the side stainless. These are pretty odd shaped/designed clips. I recall the portion that fits into the sheet metal are round kind of bulbous shaped spring steel things, and are held in by friction. To remove ours we twisted and pulled them out from the front (trim) side. I don't know if that was the right way to do it. I'd clean the back side of them first, and apply some penetrating oil. Next try tapping a pipe or a small socket just slightly smaller than the bulb over it to collapse the bulb from the back side with a light weight hammer, and see if that moves them. Once you get one out in tact you may have a better understanding of how to remove them. hope this helps...

Okay yeah that's what I've used in other manual trans cars. I was thinking there was a new product...

I'm a little confused. I looked at redlines website and see MTL, and ATF, but no MTF.

I think you can use that module, but its more common and well known to use the earlier style 4 pin module. The 4 pins were used in GM distributors for their first generation HEI. These are the distributors that had the module mounted inside the distributor cap with the coil on top. I used a heat sink from a 1990's into to the 2000's chevy v8, lots of them in the boneyards on trucks, suburbans etc. You will need to file off one of the fins on the heat sink to fit the 4 pin module. Might as well take the coil pigtails and associated steel brackets the heat sink is mounted to, with the coil and so on if you want to use that style. You can modify them to suit your mounting position etc. I used a Ford Ecore coil and bracket from a 1990's mustang or Tbird.

For the seals on the retainer bolts, go to your local hardware and find some 0-rings that fit the bolts snugly, should be 5/16" ID, and fit in the retainer recess. probably 1/16" wall o-ring will do the trick. I just re-assembled my overdrive trans a day ago and found the retainer o-rings were okay. I slobbered them up with permatex #2 and sent them. For the overdrive to gear box bolts, the o-rings were toast, I found #8 o-rings worked nicely, and I sent them slobbered with permatex #2. I'm guessing the standard 3 spd trans uses o-rings on the bolts for the trans extension to gear box too. Silicone could work, if everything is pristinely clean. Permatex #2 doesnt care if its perfectly clean....

You use a 4 spade connector GM HEI module. For details take a look at this link - https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779 I used this system and it works very well !

Do a search for VW beetle 12 volt to 6 volt wiper. I found and built my own voltage adapter using info for VW's. http://vw-resource.com/wiper1.html

To my knowledge the 4 bolt flywheel and cranks are for 218's. Furthermore there is supposed to be an offset on 218 vs 230 flywheels. Not sure why chrysler did that; but an easy way to check would be to install the flywheels on your motor and check the offset.

I see, I'd still try and test the pressure of the mechanical pump. Did you install a different intake/carb set up ? Dual one barrels might cause the starvation?

I am not sure if there is a real difference between the two. When you say fuel delivery issue are you saying you added the electric pump to resolve the issue ? You may have a bad mechanical pump. Run a few diagnostic tests. Without the electric pump running, hook in a fuel pressure gauge between the carb and mechanical pump run the engine and see what the result is, most vacuum gauges can be used for this purpose. I did this and found the pressure will vary between 1-4 psi at idle. If there is no reading, probably a bad pump. Remove it and look for a wear mark on the pump arm where it contacts the cam eccentric, no marks? Then obviously the cam eccentric is not working the pump. Is the cam eccentric is worn down ? Maybe there is a difference in truck vs car pumps, I doubt it though.

Mine are manual and they work great! Master power had both power and manual cylinders when I bought mine, not sure if both are still available.

I'm not much help with the numbers, but if its a ten inch B&B it should fit and function just fine. The only critical thing to observe might be the number and tension of the springs on it. I can tell you my car's flywheel had two clutch patterns on it, and I believe most will as well, 9 1/4 and 10". If you post the bolt pattern cross dimension I can compare it to mine and let you know.

master power brakes makes an under the floor remote reservoir MC. I put one in my car.

Thanks Sam. My car is a 40 K survivor, with little to nothing done to the engine or trans. It does not have the lower insulators just a thin rubber washer and a steel washer under the drivers side and only a steel washer under the right side. After reading a bunch of posts during a trans mount search here, it became kind of apparent that the lower mounts are missing from many of the cars and situations I read about, leading me to believe the lower mounts were not used in most cases. I believe Mopar fooled us a little with the lower bushings. I don't think they were used as widely as depicted in the service manual. Anyway - I bought a pair of those Marmon motor mounts from rock auto a while back - the rubber seems soft enough but what concerns me is they appear to be taller than the originals. I found during a search another member here had measured the height of some nos mounts and that measurement was 1.22 inches. The marmon mounts are 1.40 tall. Would you think using taller rear mounts would pose an issue with driveshaft inclination, enough to be worried about?

Who's mounts have you used, and were you happy with them ?

Do you have a friend thats done a re-assembly of an engine ? That would be a great help to you. Otherwise as stated above take your time and I'd measure all your clearances as you go. check this guys video.

My chemistry lab experience working with epoxies tells me I'd hesitate to use an epoxy in this situation. Epoxy will burn at 350F; lower than the temps inside a cylinder.

DJ - I cleaned out the governor when I had the trans down and checked its function, but not speed. Is it possible there were different gears used, meaning more or less teeth which would change the speed at which the governor activates ?

I believe the main difference in wiring and devices for the overdrive are the solenoids, either 6 volt or 12 volt. If your system is 12volts you need 12 volt solenoid. I dont think there is a difference in the governors - they are a speed activated switch. I used the old 6 volt governor in my wiring and it works fine. The service manual tells you that the governor closes the circuit at about 25 mph. I found in my case its more like 45 mph.