50plymouth

Sadly I've sold my 50 Plymouth and wagon but this offset air cleaner would have been a huge find when I had my Plymouth. If you can get the air cleaner with the offset bottom , very cool 30s star top (huge key) and an element for $200 or under I think you have hit a home run. Just the banged up old ones with out an offset I've seen them sell for north of that and nice ones running up over $500 although how many are sold at that price is a good question . Potentially a value added people could get them powder coated to match their car so if you sold them black and/or chrome bit also had them so they were ready powder coat or be painted that's a great option.

So sorry to hear about your health issues. That's tough . You are right, as is will only work for the straight 3 speed. It would be great to have something that would work with the 1952-56 Plymouth r10g1 transmission as well. Unfortunately my days where I could help in either are behind me but I sure would love to see someone complete it It really is great to see people still developing new products for these old Chrysler flathead! Paul

Well Adam - Ive looked at the Banner - I dont see put a chevy v8 in your car.. But you have totally missed the point. There are a number of people, some who have posted on this thread who have successfully made it such an uncomfortable place that not a few but many many have long ago left. My point was, exactly what he wants to cover is covered in detail on several different threads on Hamb. Why in the world should the person not get a lead into exactly what he wants to do ? I do think and have suggested more than once that just as there is a p15-d24 forum and a mopar flathead truck forum, etc etc, There should be a forum where a lot of the custom stuff belongs. You Adam are dead wrong that I an many others are all about keeping them stock. I am many are all about keeping them Mopar and that Sir is a world of difference. If the owners of the p15d24 sight wish to have the all breed mix and match, v8, v10, v6 or whatever coupled with turbo 400s, t5 and whatever else can be dreamed up thats cool, I just dont think it belongs on he P15d24 forum. Not to be confused with the p15d24 website. This site is far from the only resource on the internet, and quite honestly with some of the "free advice" often tossed out there, its as likely to misinform that help some on many topics. So yes I realize you will not have lots to say and a big rant.. You have not posted several times on the thread sounding somewhere between a self styled expert and self styled policeman. But replying to me, save your breath, I wont be reading it.. Ill save everyone the time and sign off for the final time.. Id rather not catch the 350 chevy, or 460 ford flu.. Carry on.

Your car, your money, do whatever you like.. But as others have said your on the p15d24 site, not the resto-mod or how to put a 350 chevy in your mopar. Your just in the wrong forum. Ditto for selling parts. As also mentioned go over to Hamb as there are tons who have discused putting a sbc or v8 into this that or something else. Here is the link. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ As for Don C post with lamps etc.. Dear moderator, please lock this thread before it gets silly.

Hi Ward - Its not too complex. In 1952 they actually came out mounted on the right (passenger) side of the steering column. I mounted mine (like this picture) right beside the emergency brake cable. It would have went through the firewall in several places. I drilled a hole and used a rubber grommet and then down under the frame and hooked it on to the tranny. Try not to turn real sharp as the cable does need to travel My biggest challenge was to find a mounting bracket. The overdrive cables often dont come with mounting brackets. Its really not too complex. Wiring, well that can be so I would strongly suggest making sure your have a decent diagram or invest in a wiring harness from the AoK boys. That was one of the best investments I made!

Interesting point. This morning I went out and measured the distance between the carb and the exhaust on my 1960 slant 6. Yes I realize it maybe considered off topic although I think this proves the point. I also looked quickly at some of the clifford and other intake options which all pull the carbs further from the exhaust. My question is why doesn't anyone on the slant 6 side of the Mopar Church talk about water heating the intake My exhaust is close to the intake runners as they hit the block but out on the carb there is no heat on my aftermarket intake and I don`t have any issues. Actually it is -7 out side right now. Yes my Canadian friends I am talking Fahrenheit ! I fired up my car which is in the garage and no warmer in there. Then I fired up the slant six. Both needed choke there is no doubt about that. Both were about 5 minutes with some choke and another 5 or 10 minutes before there was warmth coming from the defroster. Like yesterday I will be heading out for lunch shortly. It was just as cold and I had no issues. I have no evidence although after reading Tim Kingsbury`s post it makes complete sense to me that this water heater would draw heat from the intake until the engine reached operating temperature. Tracing the origins of that idea wasn't hard. Tom Langdon, Chevy guy with how much mopar experience..... really.. Again back looking at my slant 6, I think this water heat is a lot to do about nothing. Again just my opinion.

It already exists John. I have had Fentons, Offys and even tried an Edgy (all too low) and Edmunds (best of the olde skool dual carb intakes) but when I got the AoK one from Tim Kingsbury it became obvious he knows what he is doing. I have a 230 and it got almost 12 miles to the gallon better than the stock intake with 1 carb. I coupled it with George Asche`s headers so the increased fuel mileage could be attributed to the pair I am sure. Their was clearly more hp and more torque. With previous cars where I used Fenton or Offy intakes the rev was there, plus some but I lost a lot of torque. Here is the link on the site. On ethanol, I agree with you. Its nasty on carbs and their gaskets, rubber lines and for flatheads just isnt the fuel of choice. Again, in my opinion. Im lucky as I have lots of non-ethanol fuel options around me. In fact several 100 and above octane fuel options around me.

Thats far from mild given that engine was .375 lift. .410 is a pretty high lift cam. I am not suggesting its not a good grind. That is an Esky stock car cam. I am just saying that is not a mild cam.

When I called Earl several years ago he was just getting into Mopars. I think that was 1999. He later did a head which I bought and it overheated. I asked about cam specs but he wouldnt really give me the specs. I ran into George Asche and Tim Kingsbury are Chrysler Carlisle and they had many cam patterns, including Esky patterns as well as custom grinds only they had. I asked for specs and they handed me over all of the specs for any cam. Whether Earl came up with more than 1 design I have no idea, but what I do know is the Asche's and Kingsbury family has been doing this for not a decade or two but over 50 years. If you want a cam, id strongly suggest getting in touch with them. There is my two cents.

From one Paul to another Paul, I have known George and Tim for around 20 years now and did have the opportunity to meet Eddy Kingsbury at Chrysler Carlisle in 2009. Classy, professional and all of them were off the chart smart and some of the modest guys I have ever met. Like you I 1st met George and Tim via the telephone. That was great, but nothing like meeting them in person. If you ever have the opportunity, I would strongly suggest it should be on the top of every true Flathead Mopar enthusiast bucket list. Just don't wait to long as George is getting up there and Tim's Dad who I intended to go north to Canada to see the following spring, passed away that fall. That is not to take away from Tim although there is nothing like talking to guys who were there in the early days, or at least the 1940's , 50s and 60s and in the forefront of Performance Flatheads back then. My apologies for the speech but I just thought it was appropriate when two good guys who maybe don't seem to know each other quite as well, might just have ran into each other in the back wood, both thinking the other had their guns drawn! Paul M

he doesn't. his dual started as the offy or fenton which he improved. it really is too bad he didn't start with the "gold standard" which was the Edmunds. Kiwicranbrook - If you want a Triple George Asche makes them for the small block engines from stock intakes.

Can you provide any picture or evidence of a 23 1/2" triple ever made by any "names" in the 40s or 50s from a commercial standpoint. I most certainly never saw one. The 2 x 2 barrel intakes from Edmunds were one of his earlier generations intake and Edmunds stopped making those in the later years as they had terrible flow characteristics.

I think you may have misunderstood George. I have seen the AoK dragster and it has a modified Edmunds head on it. George's 1929 Desoto which I understand was undefeated in the flying mile in the mid-50s has an Edmunds head on it. I also believe he built a race engine for his #3 son as he refers to him, Tim Kingsbury. I got that picture from Tim's blog keeping up with the AoK boys. I do agree he would recommend cast iron heads for most people and most applications but I do believe he will tell you its a little more than visual appeal. From what I understand the aluminum tends to crack over time and clearly the Edgy head is lacking cooling areas in the front of the head which are present in the Edmunds heads. On different heads, at least when were talking the 25 1/2 inch motors I think you will find George would often seek out Tim Kingsbury or when he was alive his Dad Eddy Kingsbury for that information. Better yet ask Tim on the "keeping up with the AoK boys"

Desired in what way ?

Here is the thread over on Tim's blog on the topic. Hope you don't mind Fred,

Yes Matt - Every 265 crank is forged. If your machinist has a recommended place he uses to spray weld and regrind the crank to standard, then I would suggest you let him do that. Nothing worse than a customer with a shopping list of questions he has gotten from an internet thread. If the machinist doesn't have a good crank refurbish company he recommends, your are the wrong machinist. Its pretty much that simple. Its not a complicated process and your way over thinking this. I have literally spray welded thousands, and yes thousands of cranks and Chrysler flathead cranks are pretty straight forward. Not only is your 265 crank forged, but it was also balanced to 1 gram. When you factor in there were still major manufacturers with not only cast cranks, but Babbitt bearings when the 265 came out in 1952, you have the best of class to work with. The only tip is don't ship your crank, hand carry it and be careful as mishandling can easily end in a bent crank!

Is this a reflection in the rear view mirror ? I thought you were selling your car with wiring issues or did you get it back on the road?

Unfortunately and I hate to even say this, but I get the feeling George's days going to Spring and Chrysler Carlisle is behind him now. He said he might go to Dunkirk which is a small auto fleamarket, That is where I actually met George and Tim and his Dad Eddy Kingsbury. Its hell getting old.

If its the original engine it is 201 ci. SInce it is a 25 1/2" engine it will have a date code cast into the block on the oil filler side of engine. The serial number is helpful but not a definitive item for the big blocks. Often times the older engines got rebuilt or the blocks were changes and the blocks restamped. I was told my Tim Kingsbury, whose grandfather was the general manager of the Canadian Engine plant than made all of the big blocks that they started producing engines in late 1935 for the 1936 production runs. Being a 1938 its a pretty early engine. What I have found is depending on where the engine spent its life and what minerals were found in the local water will often see 80 year old blocks with a lot of mineral deposits. If you do decide to rebuild it you will definitely want to have the block "cooked" to try and get rid of the years of deposits which will often see an old engine running hot.

It all depends on what your looking for. I go every year and for sure it is a great deal of 60s and newer stuff, but there are still often a lot of older parts and in many cases bargins can be had. As in every show there are less and less vendors carrying older stuff because there is less around and in many cases they know they can get way more on ebay. At one point in time I would have had a similar view as some to check ebay, but for most part I want the pricing is absolutely goofy and I have had so many disappointments on condition etc I don't bother. There are also too many times guys are guessing what the part is and you get it and its wrong. For me Ebay is back to a last resort spot. I also agree Hershey does tend to have a lot more older stuff, but again less and less and its not a concentrated to mopar as the all Chrysler Nationals. Spring Carlisle is coming this week, so if you just want parts that isn't a bad spot however if your 700 miles away I guess it depends on what your looking for an how bad you need it. I talked to George Asche the other day and they still have 3 spots however for the 1st time in 25 years they wont be going and he doubt they will be going to the All Chrysler Nationals (Chrysler Carlisle). Another example of a living legend who is now 85 and while his boys know this stuff there isn't the money in it and it is really time consuming compared to their rebuild of starters, generators etc business which means they are not likely to take over from George. Sad but it is what it is.

yes, found the reference point.. http://www.allpar.com/corporate/technology.html 1924 for oil filter 1930 oil filters were standard 1946 the introduction of full flow oil filters.

What vehicle/engine are we talking about ? I was under the impression Chrysler first introduce the bypass oil filter in 1924 and that every Plymouth had one ? On my cars I run both the bypass oil filters and full flow oil filters. The bypass filter does a better job of cleaning the oil, where as the full flow filters the big lumps.

Wow

Pure Gold Tim..

without causing a fight here.. Tom Langdon sells them because he bought a huge and I mean a huge quantity of surplus ones a few years ago. If you wish to run 1 2 barrel carb verses multiple carbs clearly that is your call. The ones Tom sell are as good as any and we can avoid the discussion of 2 or 3 singles vs a less effective 2 barrel on a flathead.