soth122003

I looked at the 1k and 2k stands on HB. And while I agree with JB that the 1k should be enough for the engine, The way the base of the 1k and the 2k are designed would make me go with the 2k. The 1k base is square and more narrow at the front and the 2k base is y'd and seems like it would handle the weight distro better. This makes the 2k more stable when breaking torques and stuck bolts or rotating the engine etc. Last thing you need is a stand that will support the weight but tips over when breaking or applying torques or rotating the engine to work on it more easily. Joe Lee

Correct carb for a 1946-1949 Dodge is a Carter B&B D6J1 according to the Motors Manual 1935-53. Joe Lee

1937 Plymouth carb models. B6G1, C6F1-5, C6H1, from the 35-53 Motors Manual. Joe Lee

I believe almost any of the Carter B&B carbs will fit your 38. Just look real close at the pics and make sure they match up close. The mount to the intake should be the same on all B&B's. Best bet is E-bay and try to find one that's been on a wrecked or sitting car that hasn't been used in years. They are easier to rebuild and you will probably be able to mix and match from your old carb. Also, cleaning and lubeing the throttle shaft, your problem will come back. May be a few weeks or a few years. The wear on the shaft will always let dirt in and it will hang again at some point. Short of a professional rebuild to address bushing wear, that's about the best you can hope for. 1938 Carter models are: B6H1, B6J1, C6J1 and C6K1. Like I said check Ebay. Joe Lee

Just a thought, but I think JBneal is onto the cause. Your area around the throttle shaft has a little bit of crud (not really visable to the eye) between the shaft and the bushing, that is being affected by the heat or vibration from a running engine. This is either causing it to become sticky when warm or expanding a little to keep the throttle from not closing all the way with out the snap from tapping the throttle. You might want to take the carb off and soak the throttle plate section (or the hole carb) in a carb cleaning solution for a few hours and then clean it off according to the instructions. Best result would be to completely disassemble the carb and soak it or use a sonic cleaning machine. My car does this occasionally and it can be annoying but is really a minor annoyance, and just tap the throttle to fix. When I need to pull the carb for major cleaning or repair, that will be addressed at that time. Joe Lee

I pulled the cowl vent and used Andy B's seal and contact cement. It worked great and was a little high but was not a detriment. Make sure to clean the seal area real good (dremel tool with the little wire wheel) and while you have it out, make sure to clean and check the drain tube area as well. Like Sniper said make sure you place the seal right the first time, cause there is no second chance without a lot of cleaning and the seal will tear removing it if you place it wrong. Joe Lee

This is the brass bushing, right? If so make sure to lube with a bit of heavy grease. Joe Lee

Follow the manual. There is only about 3 things that can cause the no charging. 1. Generator 2. Voltage regulator 3. Bad wiring or bad grounding. The repair manual has the tips and troubleshooting techniques to figure out what might be wrong. The problem with the manual is it only addresses each component separately. It doesn't address the problem of not charging, but addresses each component not working properly. So if your wiring is good, use a multimeter and start with the generator and see if it is putting out the prober voltage to charge the battery. If it is then check the voltage regulator. When you find the component that is not working properly, use the manual to troubleshoot it. The voltage regulator is easy to check and fix or replace. The generator... About the only thing you can't check on the generator, according to the manual, is the armature check. The VR is about $60-$80 I think and the genny can be rebuilt at most starter generator shops for about $150. If you like originality, fix or replace the items that are bad. If not replace the VR and genny with a 6v pos ground altenator. https://www.ebay.com/itm/335208751824?itmmeta=01HWR0XZJZTWG5B21DCZ12BBPF&hash=item4e0bffa2d0:g:FAgAAOSw1JVaHKCw This is the one I put in my P-15. My last 2 genny's the armature went bad and I just said the heck with it. Joe Lee

I don't know about the 51, but my 48 P-15 the seat back for the back seat is hung from a rail at the top of the seat. It is 2 flanges about 6 inches below the top. At the bottom there are 2 flaps? pieces of metal that can be bolted down. On mine I use the seat base to hold the bottom of the seatback in place. Now to get the seat back off, I pulled the base and checked to see if it was bolted and since it didn't appear to be, I used a long 2x2 to lift up on the bottom of each side and it came of fairly easy. Now going back in required the judicious use of the hand smack at the top to get it seated. Joe Lee

I agree to that Ivan. Then add in a hairline crack and the float weight and fuel weight, it might be enough to slowly wick or drive the fuel up that crack, when you add in the Meniscus properties. He did say it was a slow weep that would wet the carb. Like I said, just a guess and I could be wrong, but it does make for an interesting topic. Joe Lee

Are you talking about the area of the forward bold hole by the fuel inlet? If so, that looks like a fine crack and maybe that is causing a wicking action. It's something I remembered from chemistry called a Meniscus (liquid). It has to do with the attraction of a liquid to its container. This link tells about the phenomenon using water. https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/water-meniscus Not saying this is your problem, but maybe? I'd heck the area with a magnifying glass and make sure it is or isn't a crack and go from there. Joe Lee

This is the pump I bought Oct 2018. I think I installed it in early 2019. It has worked well all these years, so I can't complain. Since it is a DC pump it doesn't care about polarity. Just ground the brown wire and run the black to the switch. Sorry about the long link. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Electric-Installation-Inline-Carbureted/dp/B07DNJWHCC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VN0E70Z3Q3LX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jarfSLsnWgY9oh3DaaGUigmjkYDmA8ebz1BFQ_fmn5RHKbokuusddFI7JS2eYAOEu9O6QsXufUpnrhT5cszKgFBvSuMjQo-wSnLvc-h6diU9XQIxaLiVDDDPa5mkITwaDFh8kSInXex8t1jOZj06_kS17B7fKAevEpIxwox6eKvxUbRvAqgrsF7ipAWFrG9wmYaso4qzD0ed-h-Etv5ikjZQiqmOIAEkrOb69wuZ7Bw.65jGwliF3s5mwkNFPKQgCBM4czITeADLHY9CvMytHrI&dib_tag=se&keywords=6v+electric+fuel+pump&qid=1713467892&sprefix=6v+electric+fuel%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-3 Joe Lee

I put my switch in a dash hole blank next to the key switch. I also used a momentary switch, so these is no chance of leaving it on. I wired it to the hot side of the ignition switch (fused with a 10 amp fuse). While my pump is not a carter, it is a 6v pump and it is great. Love it for the prime when I don't start my car for a few weeks. Joe Lee

If it is just a straight vacuum gage, you can't. but most auto vacuum gages double as a fuel pressure gage for low psi/carburated cars. If your gage has numbers before and after the zero it is likely a vacuum/fuel pressure gage. Go to the HB link I posted and look at the face of the gage. If yours looks like that, it's both. To use it as a fuel pressure gage, just use a t-fitting to hook it into a fuel line and pressurize it with the fuel pump. If yours is just a straight vacuum gage, The HB one is only $16 so not like it will break the bank. I have a second one I bought by accident, thinking I didn't have one, and for the cost of postage I would send it to you except that it will probably cost more in postage than to get a new one at HB. LOL Joe Lee

This is the one I have. Since it is also a vacuum gage, I use it to tune my engine as well. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/diagnostic-testing-scanning/compression-pressure-testers/fuel-pump-testers/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html Joe Lee

Forgot to add that you should take a reading of each pump. The electric with the car not running and then the mechanical running. When you take the reading with it running the mechanical pump pressure might not change as it will only check the pressure of the pump not the volume. If you take a reading behind the mechanical pump, it may read vacuum and that may change when you take the electric pump out of the circuit. This may involve installing the gauge a couple of times in two different areas. Joe Lee

Did you install a fuel filter before the electric fuel pump? I believe the electrics are more prone to fouling than a mechanical due to the motor being fuel cooled. I can't think of a reason the warmer temp would be an issue though, unless the switch from winter to summer blend fuel has something to do with it. You might want to take a fuel pressure reading at the carb then run a bypass line around the electric pump, take another reading and see if the pump is causing a problem. That's all I can think of right now. Some others might chime in with something else hopefully. Joe Lee

I usually just buy a box of SOS pads from the dollar store and they work just fine and I haven't notices any damage to items I use them on. Joe Lee

While I don't have an Airtex fuel pump, I do have a electric fuel pump for prime and vapor lock. I've had it for a couple of years and I have never noticed a fuel issue while running the mechanical fuel pump drawing fuel through the electric prime pump. In another thread I have currently "Air in the Fuel Line", I was troubleshooting a fuel issue. One of my checks was fuel pressure. The prime pump is putting out 3 psi, while the mechanical is putting out 6 psi. Both were steady readings and did not interfere with each other. Turns out is most likely water and old gas combo. Your idea of a t-fitting sounds fine, but you may want to check the condition of the mechanical fuel pump, the state of the fuel (is it good or going bad, water in the fuel, etc..) pinhole in the line that may be affected by the warmer weather, just to name a few. It might also be like you think that the electric pump is creating drag in the fuel. Only way to find out is to check. Not all pumps are created equal. Sam and DJK also raise good points about doing away with the mechanical pump all together. Me I like original stuff, but with the advent of technology, it might make more sense to upgrade some things to relieve the heart ache of a failure point. (My generator to an alternator after 2 armature failures in 5 years). It all boils down to what you want and then once you decide, all our friends here will chime in with suggestions on how best to do it. Joe Lee

That's for when everything is back together and you've filled and drilled the holes that were egged and replaced the torque shaft bushings and basically put everything back to factory specs, When the clutch pedal is pushed it should move approximately 1 1/16" till the throw out bearing hits the pressure plate fingers and starts to disengage the clutch. It's the last procedure called...Clutch pedal free play. LOL All kidding aside, In your service manual it is probably the first subject in the clutch section. It is also the last step in the clutch replacement process before the operational or drive checks. Joe Lee

That's the plan. Trouble with water is it don't stay in one place while driving and tends to mix with the fuel and run right along with it to the carb. Hence the small bubbles visible in the fuel filter. Only thing that will really stop it is a water fuel separator. Got the filters in today but will wait since I'm going to order the square pipe plug socket set and try to impact the fuel tank drain plug out (very carefully). Joe Lee

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER Thanks for tip Los. I pulled the sender and measured the gas level, it was at 2 1/2" in an 8" deep tank, which matches the fuel gage reading of about 1/4 tank of gas. Looking in the tank from the sender hole I couldn't see any water, but it was probably back by the tank drain, and the drain plug is stuck and I can't remove it. The one thing I didn't do last fill up was to put Stabil in the tank. It keeps the gas good and also helps with condensate. When I measured the gas level, I stirred the gas in the tank then I smelled the gas. It didn't smell bad, but it smelled weak. The strong smell wasn't there. It smelled lite, like half of the normal gas smell. I have new fuel filters on the way to replace the one before the prime pump at the tank and the one before the carb and when I change them, I'll take another crack at removing the drain plug and hopefully know for sure about the water in the tank. So tune in next week for another exciting episode of "As the Wheel Turns". Joe Lee

How tight is to tight? A couple of thousands? Or more than 10? I personally wouldn't use a ream as they come in set sizes and may not match the shaft size. I would wrap some emery cloth around drill bit of close size and using a lite oil, hone the bushing a little at a time until the fit is smooth. If the fit is more than .010" I would replace the bushing using the correct tool. That said, you do you. Oilite bushings tend to be a bronze color and using a magnifying glass you can see the surface is porous and has an oil like sheen. Joe Lee

Just google pilot bushing tool. The tools don't so much burnish as they keep the ID from collapsing in when installing. Amazon has them or you can loan a tool from an auto parts store. Since your bushing is still in, I would measure the ID and check it against tranny shaft. It should be close and then use a light emery cloth on the bushing to clean it up. If it is an oillite bearing no lube, if not just a dab of grease in the bushing and install the tranny. Your bigger concern will be the linkage and such. Kilgore47's post was how mine was. Also look at your clutch fork. Make sure it is not bent and where the adjustment rod seats into is not worn out to much. Joe Lee

That was my thought exactly! Except that it wouldn't start. That's why I thought that something had blocked the idle and run circuit of the carb. That is a great thought Los. I haven't had water in the fuel of a car in a loooong time. But now that you brought it up... I'll pull the fuel sender tomorrow and have a look. I fill the tank about every 3-4 months and with a full tank, moisture or condensation is low, but with the tank setting at or below half for about a month or two and not being driven very far (like about 10 miles a week) here in FLA. condensation can be a problem. A cup of watery fuel can stop a car in its tracks. The checking I did today found no pinholes in the lines or bubbles in the filter either. Thinking back with water as a possible problem, the drive to the Taco place was straight for about 2 miles, Then a stop sign and a fairly tight S-curve then another stop sign, turn right and then 50 feet later the car quit. That S-curve and the stops must have mix the water and the 1/4 full tank just enough to kill it. Then when it was home and sat over night the water settled car works fine. I remember in 89 I was on call for the Panama invasion and got the call at 3am. Went to start my vette and it wouldn't crank. This was Dec 24 and the temp had dipped to about 28 degrees that night. Got my flashlight and look in the tank of the vette and there was about a 1/4" of ice on the bottom of the tank at the fuel pick-up. Got a ride to deploy and when we didn't go, got back to the house at about 2pm and used a stick to break up the ice and Heet to evap the water. These things happen so rarely that we usually don't think of them till way down the trouble shooting line. I'll check the tank tomorrow and get back to you guys then. Joe Lee