dwest999

Impressive!!!

Wow... I tell you this forum is great and I appreciate all of you and your input. Keith, once we (a buddy of mine is helping me) finally got the car started on Saturday it idled "ok" for about 3 to 4 minutes with the occasional miss. Then when we increased the acceleration, even when parked, the car stumbled bad and really never came back to how it was idling originally. We then tried to drive it and the stumbling and missing got even worse. Later that day I tried to start the car back up and it took about 5 to 6 tries and then finally fired up. Came back and tried to start it yesterday and it wouldn't start. Knowing that I had changed everything from I could from the coil to the coil wire to all of the distributor parts (including 2 condensers) I decided to pull the distributor and send it off for rebuild. I know there's plenty of information on the forum on rebuilding the distributor, but for $200 plus parts I made the call to spend the extra cash. Hopefully a rebuilt carburetor and distributor will solve my issues. Wes, at some point I may move to Petronix. In the meantime I'll tackle the brakes. Oh, I did check compression, 1 = 100, 2 = 100, 3 = 98, 4 = 100, 5 = 92 and 6 = 100. Again, more to come

Forum Friends, Quick update, I pulled the distributor today and sent it off to Jeff at Advanced Distributors for a rebuild. After talking to Jeff it seems as if the symptoms my car is display could very well be related to the distributor. In the meantime I'll be working on the brakes and carburetor. I want to thank you all for the support you've provided. More to come. Dave

Dartgame, Thank you for the reference, I read Randy's page on ODs a couple of days ago. I was very informative. I too also learned of his passing at 62. So sad. Dave

Thanks all... I really really appreciate this forum. It’s a key enabler for me in trying to work on my own stuff. I found a distributor that supposedly came off an early 60s Dodge which matched the number I have. That said, it’s helpful to know that IBR = IBR (thanks DJ194950). Dave

desoto 1939 and Keith, thanks for the tips. I pulled the distributor to get the number off of it. It's a Autolite IBR 4001... which is great; however, I can find any more information on the Internet in terms of getting a new cap and rotor (those are the only two things I have replaced in the distributor). I did also check for movement in vacuum advance (and Keith instructed) and it's moving fine. At this point I guessing it's a fuel issue. I did drain the tank the best I could and put 5 fresh gallons in it. I put the distributor back in at the same location, but now, for some reason the engine turns, but doesn't want to fire up. I started it this morning (ugh). I guess I could check for spark; however, after cranking it hard this morning it did start. Hummmm.... ps - Keith I just watched your latest video and like other follows of your YT channel I feel as if I know you too.

Ken, thanks. This is my first rodeo on a lot of this stuff and I wasn't sure. The arm does move. I don't have the tool (yet) to check it but will be getting one. The car is still running really rough. We chased things yesterday and have too spark established. We think the time is good and dwell is set correctly as it idles ok until you put it under load. Then the darn think sputters and fumbles... I drained most of the gas from the tank today and although it didn't smell too much like varnish, it also didn't look like it was new. I also have a carb rebuild kit coming. Just trying to test and eliminate things along the way. Thanks again.

I searched the forum and couldn’t find anything on whether or not the vacuum advance on the side of the distributor can be serviced/rebuilt. I had the one of my Autolite IBR distributor off yesterday. The arm coming of the advance unit did moved, but not very easily. I know you can buy a new one but I was hoping I could just service the one I have. Thank you.

KH, thank you. Any suggestions on the best place to buy new cylinders and the rubber lines. Also, here’s a picture of the car. I love these old Plymouth so much more than the Fords snd Chevys of the same vintage.

Whoa Knuckeharley.. pump the brakes (excuse the pun).. I really appreciate the guidance and caution. The plan is to rebuild the carb and address the brakes before any real driving. It appears as if the passenger side drum is dragging really bad. I'll need to rebuild all of the cylinders with new rubber lines. Also have to look at the master. The brake lines look as if they've been replaced. So, the brakes are at the top of the list. Good times.

Quick update. We (a friend who know a lot more than me) and I got the '40 Plymouth going today. We ended up having to install a new coil (old one was weak), new battery cables (old ones were frayed and the negative was shorting out), reset points as there was way too much gap, replaced the plugs, etc. Got the car going but it was missing really bad, then it stalled and wouldn't start... checked the plugs and no spark (again!). Ended up pulling the distributor to reset the points. We also replaced the condenser. Put it back in the car and it started and idled for about 10 minutes. We able to drive it around the block but it was sputtering all the way... now guessing it's bad gas or the carb may need to be rebuild (probably both). Good news is (1) the car starts, runs, drives, stops and (2) it shifts which I think means the OD is probably not damaged (yah). Anyway, thanks to all of you. Dave

Loren, thanks for weighing in with your perspective. The car was running... I drive it on to the trailer. Then, after an 8 hour drive it wouldn't roll. I checked the ebrake and that's not engaged. The car did move in forward and reverse with the help of the starter, but I haven't tried to move it since. My buddy is coming over tomorrow to help me set the dwell and hopefully get the old rig started. Then we'll see if it's the brakes or transmission. I've got a bunch of maintenance to do to the car including rewiring the OD correctly. Move to come. Thanks again and I hope you're enjoying your new ride...

I think the OD came out of an R10 as it was pulled from either a 52 or 53 Chrysler. Once I get it running what would be the best way to check and see if the transmission is damaged? I don't want to just throw it in gear and hope for the best... right? Thanks.

Yes, we were afraid to pull it as we we're sure it would release... good thought though. My next step is to jack the car up to see if any of the wheels spin.

Hello all, Last weekend I picked up a 40 Plymouth that does have OD on it. The man I purchased it from was elderly and couldn't really remember how the OD works. I just watched a great video on YT explaining the R10 OD (which is what I think I have). I now know have a good idea on how the OD works; however, here's the rub. When the car was driven on to the trailer the OD lever was pushed all the way in which I believe means the OD was engaged. We did have to back it up once to better align the car and then continued to drive it up on the trailer. The OD was wired up with a toggle switch under the dash , but I am not sure if the switch was on or off. When we got it home we tried to unload the car but it wouldn't start. We tried to push it off the trailer but the car also wouldn't roll (it was in neutral). Assuming maybe the brakes were sticking/stuck we finally go it off the trailer by using the starter and bumping it off the trailer while in reverse (I know not optimal, but there wasn't any other way at the time). I was horrified after watching the YT video when I realized that I might have damaged the OD by trying to move it while in reverse (that is assuming the OD was engage, I'm not sure if it was). Now I am at a loss at what to do next. The car is still running as I've been waiting on parts all week (USPS is still very slow). Once I get it started I'm not really sure what to do next. My questions are... 1. How do I check to see if the transmission is working? Do I put it in drive and see what happens? 2. Although in neutral the car still doesn't roll, should I assume it's still in gear? Maybe the brakes are indeed sticking/stuck? 3. If all of fails and the car still doesn't want to move after I put it in gear does anyone know of someone how knows/services these OD? Is that a specialist or can I take it to a local shop that works on vintage transmissions? 4. Are parts still available? Sorry for the long email; I'm kind of freaked out / frazzled that I might have really damaged this new to me car I just bought. Thank you. Dave

I second Keith suggestion. Send him a message, he can help you out as he did me. Good luck.

Perfect and thank you.

Hello all, I just picked up a new to me 1940 Plymouth P10. It is an older restoration that has good bones, but needs some love. Anyway, when I tried to access the glove box the push button release basically fell out onto the floor. I was able to collect all of the parts which included the button, strikers, and a thin metal retaining clip which I think is supposed to keep the button from all. I tried to reinstall the button/striker and can't figure out where the retaining clips goes. I searched the forum, my shop manual, and the interweb and couldn't find any information. Any help would be great. Below are pictures. Thanks. Dave

Looks good. I like that there's not too much bling. Also great to see that other get as excited as me about these old Mopars. Anyone can find a old Chevy or Ford but it takes a special breed to embrace these old rigs. Plus, I guarantee you'll be the only person at the show, cars/coffee, cruise-in, etc. with a '49 Plymouth Coupe. Well done.

I continue to be amazed at not only the wealth of information on this great forum, but also on all of the forum members willing to educate those of us (me very much included) on the in and outs of these old Mopars. I just bought another Mopar ('40 Plymouth) choosing it over a Chevrolet and Ford. I like the fact that it's less common; however, without the help of this forum in the past I might not have gone Mopar. It's a great support network and I greatly appreciate all of you.

Thank you Jerry!

Forum friends I'm in a situation where I put a deposit down on a car and the current owner can't get it running. He said he order points and they weren't right, which based on this string makes sense. My question is if anyone knows how many different types of points came on the 1940 Plymouth. I'm trying to get distributor number from the current owner; however, I thought if there is say 3 or 4 different types of points used that it would be feasible for me to just buy all of them from either Bernbaum's or Robert's and have them overnighted to the current owner (then I'll look for a NOS after I get the car). I know this says crazy, but I'm under a time crunch and the car is 8 hours from me and an hour from the current owner (in storage). Thank you in advance for the help. Dave

Allbizz49, wow, I love this car... I'm not sure why the base models of these Mopars don't get much love. I have a '54 Meadowbrook that I bought b/c of it's plain jane utilitarian look. I'm a big fan of you '53.

Knuckleharley, thank you for your service. I appreciate the sacrifices you and other veterans have made. Regarding Keith's question, there is probably not a single answer; however, I'm a podcast junky and following the collector car hobby beyond Mopars. I think there are a couple of things points already made that are key drivers of the trends. (1) Most of us grew up during a time when driving a car met freedom and the ability to connect with friends. Things aren't like that anymore. Younger folks (say under 35) came of age during a very different time. (2) This same group of <35 year olds are also in a much different financial position as many are straddled with debt for various reasons. These old rigs aren't cheap to buy, maintain or improve upon. (3) Plymouth is a mark that many younger folks haven't even heard of (along with several other brands mentioned earlier) and thus aren't as desirable to the younger crowd. Well there's my 3 cents worth.

Thanks all... I don’t think it’s going to work out for me and having a 4 poster in the garage... ugh... well glad I figured this before dropping $5K.