casper50

I bought one about a year ago as I was already thinking about this then. I'll need to get another I guess.

That's one of my problems at the moment. I've contacted 2 different DMV sections here in Alaska and this is what I've been told. Alaska allows "YOM" (year of manufactur) plates. I had basicly two questions that I asked both the DMV in Soldotna and one in Anchorage. 1. On whether I need two plates since in 1947 they only issued one and Alaska now mandates two. Soldotna said that I could have a personalized plate made for the front and the Anchorage said that I needed two originals. (They only made one for each number) 2. On condition: Anchorage said that the DMV doesn't okay the plate condtion. Soldotna said that I had to have the plate taken into them so that they could okay it. I figured that if I buy an original plate and make two reproductions of said original plate that looks as close as possible that they might allow that. An original 1947 Alaska plate runs from $225 to $450. I don't feel like buying one just to find out that I can't use it. I'm trying to get a definative answer to the questions above but no luck so far.

I want to try and recreate a 1947 Alaska soyboard license plate. I'm having a hard time coming up with a substitute material for the soyboard itself. I've got a sign maker that says he can recreate the reflective paint colors and fonts I just need something better than thin aluminum to have it put on. Any suggestions?

Paul I used AAJ on the rear of my coupe. Went on slick. Stock wheel still fits.

A few photos from my Kodiak goat hunt. Notice that the goat is tied to the rock above and the trekking poles are holding the rear up. It was steep. This was by far the most exhaustive activity that I've ever done. After 3 days I was physically ill. Should have done it 10 years ago. The meat is the best wild game that I've ever eaten.

It took me a few hours trying to combine mine to realize that the bolt holes are not concentric on the flywheel. They are spaced oddly and will only go together 1 way.

looks great.

if you have a fluid drive you will never be a tire burner no matter what you add to the engine. I have added dual carbs and split exhaust. Why? for the looks not the performance they add. My coupe will still be a slow 6 cylinder car that can not beat much of anything off the line. I'm still happy with it or I would have put a hemi in it.

Knuckle that's why I mentioned it.

did you get a title? If he thought it was a Dodge and it's a Plymouth I'd think he would have seen that on the title. If you didn't get a title, I wouldn't sink much money in it until I did.

that piece of stainless trim on my 47 coupe is held on by a fastener. You have to pry out the bottom and then it just lifts off. I'm guessing that the mirror is attached to the trim piece not the body. If it's the body you'll have to get up under the dash and reach in from the inside.

They can make your original do anything that a modern one can. AM, FM, bluetooth, IPOD, whatever. That's the way that I went.

There's an overdrive in the "For Sale" section here.

I got lucky Thomba and just purchased a locking cap from the for sale section here last week. $25. I'm pretty sure you can get those made by someone. I know I could do it so that means just about anyone could.

It sold for $99

I bought an original 47 Chrysler electric setup on ebay and switched my vaccum out for the electric. Fit perfectly. I posted one on ebay a couple of weeks ago in the Ebay/CL forum here. I think it was only $90 or so.

Mine held my coupe with no problem. Mounted just as you are. My rear frame mounts were quite rusty so I sandwiched a 1x4 on top and bottom until I replacedl the rusty area.

True. Plymouth and Dodge body parts don't intermix.

Dodge should have been woodgrained I believe.

Bingster if you're speaking about the center section the nut should already be captured in the floor boards. I used a flathead straight slot screw that fits into the recess.

My battery tray looked about the same. I was thinking of naming my car Patches.

I removed the internal valve. Nice and firm but haven't tried it with the car moving yet.

I'm going to use my original until I find a reason that I shouldn't. Mine is together but I don't have it on the road yet. Still waiting on my new tires to arrive.

Some people just have to be different no matter what it costs. Lol.