laynrubber

I have a duct started for my 52. This might be my first version.....I might end up making adjustments as the angles are making me think. 2024 .032" aluminum.

Very true 55 Fargo, the more populated areas I would avoid. 55 (100K) is all I would push it to.

I have a 1200 lb 13 foot Boler that we tow with our 218. I have now done a disc brake conversion but prior we were drums all around, 2 lane hwys, not a performance demon but we tooled along at the posted speeds. I was attentive to my stopping distances with drums. Can't say yet with the disc improvement. Engine cooling was no troubles. I had a leaky rear seal so the clutched slipped a couple times but that should be fixed now too. My bigger concern was having a good hitch welded together that bolted to the car. 2" receiver.i found a skilled welderthta did one up for me in an afternoon for $200. I need to find pictures.....

When kept in adjustment drum brakes do okay. My thought is though why, when it isn't too much to upgrade to a disc front system. Not so much that your car is so bad it's that all the other cars on the road will have better braking capabilities, they might out brake you.

With car running check your voltage at the battery. At idle it won't be much over 12 volts, more likely closer to 11 volts. Rev the engine up 1200 or more and the voltage should be over 12 volts. If not check your connections for security and cleanliness. Voltage regulator of the original can be adjusted with an adjustment screw. Ensure generator belt is tensioned correctly. Might need to "flash" the generator too if there is no output....meaning revving it up and the voltage stays at 12 or less.

Great little job to do Keith. You will notice a big difference with braking after its back together. Even just a fresh fluid flush I noticed a firmer feel. Brake fluid is hydroscopic.....absorbs moisture. I would bet your current brake system is many years old, 2 to 3 years is a short interval but if you have the time it wouldn't hurt.

While thermostat control is fine, I find it real simple to switch it on and off myself. Stop and go in town driving....I leave the fan on. Get rolling and off it goes. Yes I might have to be watching my temp gage and making a motion to operate the switch but it really is simple. When SWMBO takes the car she knows to also watch the gage....at least she says she does

I like electric fans, use them on other cars and I want one now on the Plymouth. I liked the Engine Masters test. Once you are rolling with some speed a mechanical fan really isn't needed in my part of the world.

Bought my 52 when I turned 40, to add to my mustang and Ford truck. Now I am 51.

I like a tach for highway running, not for when to shift. I barely look at it in traffic. Mine was an eBay purchase, with the sending unit. http://www.williamsons.com/. These guys were great to deal with in converting it to electronic internals with no sending unit...6 volt positive ground.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z3hFeUyVrVmAXC7D2 Here is my vintage tach I had modified for the car $$$$$ 6 volt positive ground, with electronic internals now instead of the transmitter box with a battery.

Good heavens what a job. When I did mine I went all out, pin pressed out, new boot, pin and assembly. I struggled to do it myself with a big press but I did it. This guy is pretty good.

When I did mine I remember the press was creaking. Trying to think if I did anything different. Did not try heat.

Can there be such a thing as too much grease....I filled mine a plenty.

ACCELERATOR PUMP !! No squirty squirty, not sure why yet but the float level might be too low....raised it tonight and it started flooding out. There is a happy medium there I just need to find it. This is a new carb kit from a reputable supplier. The accel plunger is pliable and seems very serviceable, resistance when pushed down and does squirt when I push manually on the plunger with the carb top off. Might be a spring or linkage issue but at least I know I need to get this fixed for sure...I'm sure this is the problem.

Well got some under the hood time after work after supper on the lake. Timing rechecked....it idles best at 4*, so no change there. All connections checked for torque, nothing loose. With it running I sprayed WD40 on carb base, intake gaskets and vacuum line.....anywhere there could be a leak and there was no change to rpm. Richened the squirt on accel pump but that didn't seem to change the snag either. Plugs were a shade whiter than I thought they should be. This is the same carb the engine has always had and before the rebuild it ran fine. Just with a gasket kit installed and a cleaning. Any more ideas ?

Tinkering with the 52 Plymouth now, it is sort of on the road. Awaiting a front end alignment still and the overdrive wired up. Anyway....this old heap has a dual header on it.....yeah I can't leave well enough alone . Starts and idles fine, down the road it goes fine. Problem is the pulling away from a stop. It wants to stall out. Pull the manual choke on and it will idle away from that stop just fine. Without the choke you have to pump it and ride the clutch out...keeping revs up.Am I loosing carb or intake heat with this header ?Going to richen the accelerator pump squirt to max again. It was full rich and to test a fix I leaned it one hole.Fully warmed up, driving around town for 30 minutes still the same snag.Thought about a heat pipe from header to the base of carb.Mrs ain't too impressed so far

I rerouted my fuel line away from the exhaust. I thought about wrapping the close section but have not and so far haven't had an issue.

Nice looking car.

Dragging this post up from way back. So if the cap faces the firewall and the air past it vents like a venturi is the road draft tube the air inlet ? I thought the air went in the fill cap, through the engine and out the draft tube. I ask now because the car is now just getting back on the road.

Fede....if the oil level is too high the rotating parts will impact the oil and will cause foaming. Might lead to more oil out the breather pipe. If it is high but not touching the rotating parts I see no issues.

UPDATE...FIXED. Must have been my failure at using teflon tape on the pipe threads as it had turned to slime. Pick up tube was tight but must have still sucked air. Use a pipe thread sealant and gronched it back tight. Fired it up tonight....high idle 40 psi rock steady ! Don't use teflon tape for oil wetted parts.

Napa still carries some stuff. I have dealt with Mid Canada Suspension and have been satisfied with them. Anything engine he can supply and obviously suspension.

5 L equals 5.28 quarts and good point about the dipstick. The stick was compared to the known quantity.

So the pick up is floating or sitting too high ? Maybe ..... before I put the pan back on I will check that, and once pan is going into place I will try to look inside. Thanks. Also to note I am using Rotella T 10w30, 5 litres.