YukonJack

I was following a previous thread that died. I recently received my F1 upper shock mounts and don't want to buy the wrong shocks. Originally I heard 70's-80's Chevy pick up. Then saw Monroe 555004 and Gabriel 81676. So my question is what shock is the best option. Previous thread left this unanswered. I would like to get the shocks before I start taking it apart.

Hey Don, just wondering about your progress. What shocks did you use. I looked online and the Monroe shocks look a lot stouter, larger in diameter. Got my shock mounts in the mail yesterday. Hope to install soon. The Gabriel 81676 looks like it might be good.

It was my understanding that the thermostat housing from a 70's-80's 318 was the same if you have internal by-pass. Should be a lot cheaper, but compare them first to be sure it will work.

Well, I checked out the Durango-Dakota site. This seems to be a common problem. I replaced the resistor I got from Auto Zone (15.00) with a new one from the Dodge Dealer (10.00 + tax.) Couldn't believe it was cheaper at the dealer. Dealer told me this is an up graded part (green). I cleaned the terminals in my connector plug and tested it, works fine right now but I haven't driven it since I replaced it. Dealer warranty is 1 year, Auto Zone is Lifetime. They both looked the same to me. I'll get a replacement from Auto Zone in case it goes out again. Next step would be replacing blower motor which is over 100.00. Hope I don't have to do that.

My winter driver is a 2002 Durango with a 360. It sits for months without being used. Drove it a week ago and the a/c - heater blower only worked on high. Did some testing and replaced the blower resistor (15.00). After replacing it the blower worker as it should. Drove the truck today and it only works on high again. Can the blower motor be drawing to much current and killing the resistor? Blower seems to run quiet and smooth. Anyone got any ideas on this? One of the last times the truck was driven was in the blizzard we had in Chicago in Febuary. Everything under the hood was covered with snow when I got home, thought this might have created the problem but the resistor is under the dash.

Love your car Nate. My car is a 2dr Sedan also. Are you running 225x75 all around? How wide are your wheels?

The new pump looks a lot different (thicker). Why?

Got any pictures? What size are they? How much do you want?

Those are Magnum 500's, used on a variety of cars in the 60's including Mopars.

Just my opinion, but chopped tops don't look good on anything but 20's or 30's cars.

I like the P15, just not sure about the color. Thanks for sharing.

Buried at sea?

I want it!

Interesting question. My 47 Deluxe didn't have a shut off valve. I have installed 2 different valves, when I close them my system seems to build up pressure causing the valves to leak around the stems also caused a small leak in my radiator. Last summer I just disconnected the core and tied the hoses together.

But do we know it is true? Will we see the body? It wouldn't be the first time a politician tried to make themselves look good when they knew the voters were losing faith in them. I'm not convinced, yet. If it is true, should we expect retaliation?

If someone has an extra one for a 218 - 230 with or without carb they want to sell I would probably be interested also.

Thanks for the idea Don, But I think that would only make me sit lower. Maybe I'll try it if moving the steering wheel to the right like BobT suggested doesn't work.

Thanks Bob. I'll keep that in mind.

The drivers side of the front seat in my car sits kinda low. I originally thought it was just me, but I seem to sit a few inches higher on the passenger side. Anyone have an easy fix for this?

Thanks, I like it alot.

Got them all.

In the back ground of picture 4 there is a red Dodge Woodie. Do you have any other pictures of it?

Here is my understanding of thermostats. 160 is lower operating temp in the summer, but you will get very little heat in the winter. 195 gets you nice and toasty in the winter but runs a bit hotter in the summer. 180 is the best of both worlds, you get ample heat in the winter and not running that hot in the summer. I have personally experienced all of these conditions here in Chicago. From what I have read over the years, in a properly operating cooling system the thermostat opens and closes as needed. When it opens the cooler water in the radiator flows into the engine as the hotter water flows into the radiator. The cooler water in the engine then causes the thermostat to close, allowing the cooler water to heat to the temp of the thermostat and keeping the hot water in the radiator so that the fan has a chance to cool it. The cycle continues. Hot rodders in the 60's & 70's would remove thermostats to try and run cooler but the water (coolant) ran unrestricted through the radiator not having a chance to stay in the radiator to cool down. Several aftermarket performance companys make restrictors that replace the thermostat with a block off plate with a small hole in the middle. I'm sure some people will disagree with me.

You might need to clean the frosting out of your beard once the beaters are clean.

I think they recommend shocks from a late 70's -80's Chevy pick-up.