Silverdome

I believe Don is on the right path here. Something I might add from a recent personal experience is the fuel pump might be gummed up and not cycling completely. I had to take mine apart and give it a good cleaning with carb cleaner and it started pumping perfectly.

I don't believe an R10 overdrive from a 52-53 Plymouth would have a fluid drive transmission, it would be a standard.

Andy Bernbaum has disc brake conversions that use the stock spindles, I believe. IMHO I would also go back to the flat six, but it's your car so you have to decide how much work you want to do and money you want to spend before it's driveable. Sometimes just because you have parts available doesn't mean it will be easy or affordable to use them.

Couldn't you just swap the oil pans? Nice looking truck by the way.

If you get it assembled and able to move under its own power you might just find that you enjoy having it around. These things have a way of getting under your skin. Good luck and keep the pictures coming.

Have you tried to sell it for what you believe you have in it? If it's solid then it would be a shame to butcher it up. The flat head six is a pretty simple engine so if you have any mechanical inclination then you should be able to figure out how to repair it to run properly. It will never be a big powerhouse unless you put thousands of dollars into it. It's value is variable depending upon the condition of the car when you sell it and who the buyer is. The real questions are. Do you want to fix it up? If so, how much time and money are you willing to spend on it? Are you going to try to sell it when your finished? From my experiences and most of what I've heard and read you will not be able to sell it for the amount of time you have in it and sometimes not even for the amount of money you put in it. So in conclusion if you want to fix it up go for it. Make it your car or if your fixing it up to sell it then figure out how much money you are willing to spend and how much profit you expect to make.

There is also a wire inside the cap that runs from that terminal to the points and condenser if the insulation is bad or missing and grounding against the distributor body that will give the same results. I just went through that last weekend.

Thanks Don.

That pivot on the head looks similar to what's on the head. Got any idea of what he charges for that set up and if it fits the Fenton intake? Looks like some spacers are in store.

I appreciate any help I can get.

Looks good. Anymore details or more pictures?

I have encountered some of the problems mentioned above specifically the relief port in the master cylinder being plugged and the inside of the brake hose being collapsed both of those can cause the brake light to stay on. The hose being collapsed usually will bleed back after a few minutes but the plugged relief port would not. I would venture to guess that it is the relief port.

Greg, thanks for your input. Can you upload a picture of your setup? What jets are you running? Are there any other modifications to the carbs?

Hello, I recently received a Sharp PD3 Aluminum head and a Fenton intake setup for 2 single barrels. They fit the Dodge or Plymouth 23-1/2" engines. Both are vintage items that I know have been in existence at least 30 or more years. They are not for sale. Does anybody have any experience with these? Any specs or personal experiences with these items is welcomed.

If you don't want to use Helicoil you can install Key Locking inserts, they are readily available at part stores or online at places like McMaster-Carr.

When you use a 12V to jump the 6V jump it + to + and - to - and do not have the 12V car running, then disconnect cables as soon as the 6V car starts.

I believe you done well. I don't think you'll lose any money should you get buyers remorse.

That is my eternal optimist side coming through. Trying to find the silver lining in every cloud helps me get through a lot.

The good news is, if that is a Craftsman screwdriver it has a lifetime warranty. Just take it to your nearest Sears store and get a new one for the cost of your signature, time and gas to get there, because nothing is free.

Sorry about that, I corrected it to say distributor shaft.

If you have excess play it can cause the gap to become erratic which effects the amount of spark the ignition points or in his case the pick up can make. And usually the higher the RPM the more noticeable it is.

How much play do you have on the ditributor shaft? An excess amount could cause the miss at higher RPM's.

I think you'll find that a lot of us are envious of you for finding a truck like that. Good Luck and Happy Motoring!

If the valves are stuck the tranny fluid will only help if they are stuck at the seat. If they are stuck at the stem then you can pull the valve covers off and shoot some PB Blaster on them. It probably wouldn't hurt to do that anyway before you pull the head just to get a little more information as to what is going on. If the valve seats are rusted then you'll need to do a valve job anyway.

It looks to be a Club or (5 passenger) Coupe. I can't tell if it is a DeLuxe or Special Deluxe. The interior accents will tell you as I can't see any badges on the cowling between the door and fender. Nice looking car, good luck and welcome.