squirebill

1949 B1B. So finally getting to bending the brake lines for this truck. Have a question about the line routing on the rear axle. From the left rear wheel the line comes out of the upper wheel cylinder at a slight angle forward. Guessing it then drops down to the top of the axle tube. My question is: does it then go in front of the spring hanger bracket or behind the spring hanger bracket? A picture is worth a thousand words so if any photos are available they would be much appreciated. Also bought all wheel cylinders from Andy Bernbaum. The outlet port is drilled and tapped for a hydraulic hose rather than a hydraulic hard line. Anyone know a manufacturer and part number for a hydraulic adaptor fitting to take me from the female hose port to the female 1/4" female inverted flare port?

I seem to remember my Mom had a clear glass percolator but the innards where metal like shown above. I think the glass was called "Pyrex" and could go from hot to cold without cracking. Also remember a "Corningware" percolator, again, glass with metal lid and innards, but the glass part was white, and you couldn't see the color of the coffee as it was brewing.

A-ha.... now I get it. Thought the trip through America was being done in one of Don's cars. Understand now it is Billie's car. Did not know that it was the engine from this thread. So what was the up-shot of the discolored head?

Any update on this situation?

Search this Forum for "antfreeze". Seems antifreeze causes engine to run hotter. Might have to reduce your ratio of antifreeze to H2O. Interesting test might be to drain antifreeze mixture...fill with just water and run/test drive again with hood on.

What caused "Billy" to pull the head in the first place? Sounds like the engine was running OK. Did he pull the plugs and see they were carbon fouled and clean them before reinstalling them and pulling the head? I've only overhauled a few engines but the ones that were carbon fouled, the carbon covered the complete surface of the head firing chamber. (Except a Studebaker flat 6 that had 10d nail heads on top of the #6 piston. It was all dinged up, but no carbon.) Does it strike anyone as odd that the carbon is only in the recessed area of the head and does not fully cover the area that would be over the piston? Also, I see what looks like green antifreeze residue. Is this left from disassembly of the head and still a liquid or is it more like antifreeze residue that has been burned crisp? What does the top of the block look like? If this is excessive oil getting past the rings, I would think the whole area over the piston should be carboned. I tend to think it may be oil getting past the valves. Were the valve guides redone?

Welcome to the forum. I'm relatively new here too but have gotten a lot of help and good suggestions here concerning my '49 Dodge Pick-up. Folks here steered me to Randall at Tennessee Clutch. Sent him my clutch disc and pressure plate assy....he returned a new disc assy. and a completely rebuilt pressure plate unit for $75...plus shipping came to about $100. Your car looks good in the parade picture and the guys in the back seat look like they're enjoying the ride. Have fun.

Don...thanks for your theory. Based on it I realize what I was doing wrong....I was heating it and trying to move it while it was still hot, like I did with the nut.....rather than letting it cool first. Next time, I'll know. Not sure the MAPP gas torch is up to the task but can't substantiate an oxy/acy kit as a "once in a while" tool. Maybe some day.

While we're on this subject......I had this same problem with the long anchor bolt, left front of a B1B. Didn't seem to want to budge. Don't have an oxy/acetelene torch but do have a MAPP gas bernzamatic with swirl jet. Tried penetrating oil and the heat on the nut and allowed the nut to come off. Have a big heavy C clamp and by putting a 3/4" socket over the head of the bolt and straddleing the whole mess with the c clamp thought it could be "pressed" out. No luck. Based on the above replies, separated the tie rod end so could turn the wheel til it stopped and get a good shot at the bolt with a hammer. 3# hammer and sharp whacks got it to budge enough that I could saw off the head. Now the tierod bracket with bolt could be taken to the vise and rap the bolt back and forth until it came out. All that being said, I have two questions: 1.Has anyone ever considered grinding lube grooves on these bolts and lubing them with grease before reassembly? 2. Can someone explain to me how heating the bolt better enables it to be removed? I understand the nut would expand with heat and make it easier to get it off the bolt but don't quite get how heating/expanding the bolt makes it easier to get out. Reading of the experiences of others tells me it no doubt works....just trying to understand how/why it works.

Having gone thru the above replies again: From HanksB3B, reply #6 I get the impression DesotoDave is a source for stainless steel throttle springs, both the one that goes to the floor board and also the controversial one that goes to the inner fender. Also,"Keven" is a source for throttle linkage arms. Is this correct? Also, JBNeal, thanks for the lead for your photos of the brake junction block. Having now seen it, have a better idea what I'm looking for. Although that big "hoopty-do" of the line coming out of the top of the block looks a little strange. Being the high point of the system, seems like it should have a bleed fitting there. Will see what Vintage Power Wagons has but may stick with just two tees running along the lower flange of the frame channel.

In my case, the spring going from the carb throttle plate lever to the inner fender well was the only spring on it when I bought it circa 1972 as a daily driver. Parked the truck in 1976/77 and am just now trying to de-mothball it. As I remember, there was no problem driving the truck with just this spring, just looked a little tacky, so I asked the question.

Have a '49 Dodge B1B. Been looking for used tires for it and found a set of 215-75R16s. Question is: can these tires be used on the stock 16 in. wheel/rims or are wider rims needed? Tech Items under Resources of this forum talks about sizes but doesn't mention rims. Also, if stock rims can be used, are tubes recommended or can they be used tubeless? Have 6.50-16s on it now, and looks like plenty of clearence. Any problem using the 215 mm.(8.5 in.) wide tire?

Guys...thanks for all the input. Looks like it was half correct with the spring going from the top hole of the throttle plate shaft lever over to the inner fender. I am missing Spring 14-06-1 and Lever 14-17-1. (Reference the picture in reply #2) Truck was operating fine with just the "side spring" and no Push/Pull throttle set up. Can anyone explain what spring 14-14-4 does. Only thing I can figure is it may give a slight delay for throttle plate actuation.....something like a mechanical dashpot. Any other thoughts?

Thanks for the picture of the throttle linkage. Attaching to the cotter pin in the floor board is a funny as what I have now....the return spring comes off the top hole of the bracket/lever of the carb throttle plate shaft and goes to a bent loop on the end of a piece of clothes hanger with the other end of the clothes hanger going through a hole in the inner fender and bent to keep it there. Crude but effective....maybe I'll just keep it as a conversation piece. Where did the attached picture come from......is it from the "Parts Manual" for the truck? Since I don't seem to be able to find the four point junction block or a brass inverted flare "cross" , guess will go with two "tee" fittings for the time being.

Have a '49 B1B. Looking for photos of the throttle return spring anchor points. Also a photo of the set up for the attachment of the throttle pull knob cable at the carb. Also the brake system junction block that the line from the master cylinder would connect to and the approximate location in frame. Any recommendation where I might find the brake junction block....looked at Roberts and Bernbaum but didn't see it listed. Regards.

Merle...that's the way I do mine also. Just saying that if the holes in the drums are in fact "adjusting holes", maybe no need to jump to discs. Incidently, I have a seized anchor pin (the long one), left front wheel. Tried penetrating oil, heat, and pressing out with a c-clamp...no luck. Any suggestions?

Where are the holes on the drums? I seem to remember somewhere on this forum a discussion about drilling holes on the face of the drum just clearing the brake drum wear surface. The holes were used to assist with doing a "major adjustment" by giving access to the anchor pin when the drum was mounted. Been looking for the discussion/thread but can't seem to find it.

Needed a cluster gear for a 3 speed for a B1B. Had good luck with Northwest Transmission Parts in Winchester, Ohio. They have a website at nwtparts.com.

Last time I did a pilot bushing I borrowed a dent puller type slide hammer that had a set of internal bearing puller jaws. As mentioned in another forum here, pay attention to the material of the new pilot bushing. If it's bearin bronze it is recommended it be lubed with a few drops of oil since it alreadty comes impregnated with oil in it's pores and grease will clog them up and prevent the oil from coming out of the pores. If it is any other material I would lube it per the manual with a bit of short fiber grease. Do you know how much material was removed when you had the flywheel resurfaced? Did Randall at Tennessee Clutch know that dimension when he set up your pressure plate? Point being, the clutch assembly will now be farther away from the throwout bearing when the clutch pedal is in the full up position. That will require the pedal to be pushed farther towards the floor to get the throwout bearing to engage the clutch fingers. This results in excessive freeplay of the clutch pedal and it may not be possible to adjust for the recommended 1" pedal freeplay. Also, when the pedal is pushed fully to the floor there may not be enough stroke left to fully disengage the clutch. This problem can be remedied by making an adjustment to the height of the clutch fingers using the adjusting nuts but you have to know how much was machined off the flywheel. If it was a few thousanths of an inch, probably no problem. Mine had .200" machined off and it was a problem.

I'm kindof impartial. I have round ones on my '49,always have always will. From a practical standpoint,since you have the running boards for the rectangular ones, I'd use them.

Done and done. Installed the components I got back from Tennessee Clutch. The clutch fingers, as requested, were adjusted .200" high to compensate for the .200" that was machined off the face of the flywheel by a previous owner. The disc supplied by Tennessee Clutch was a different configuration than the one I sent to them and the vibration springs actually sat below the disc wear surface (on the flywheel side) by .140 inches. This meant that if the disc wore down to the point where the rivets hit the flywheel(.060") there would still be .080" clearance between the springs and the flywheel mounting bolts. So I just left the bolts alone. Installed the transmission and E brake. Was able to adjust the 1" freeplay at the clutch pedal. Started engine and shifted through all gears with no grinding. Seems to be working as it is supposed to. Problem solved. Thanks all for all your input and suggestions.

Thanks guys for all the input. Hank, I installed a new main output shaft seal when I refurbed the transmission. This leak was lower than the main output shaft at the rear ends of the countershaft and the reverse gear shaft. As I said above have gooped both ends (front and rear) of the countershaft and the rear end of the reverse gear shaft with silicon RTV. Will see how it holds up. Hadn't thought of the glyptal paint in probably 40 years. Used it back then to paint pipes when changed my house heating system from steam heat to gas fired hot water heat. The central steam plant went bankrupt and everyone in the community had to put in a heating system of some sort. Probably the wrong application for the paint but it was on hand so it was used. Happy to know it is still available. Thanks for the links.

OK guys....as recommended above I sent the clutch components off the Tennessee Clutch and Supply. Sent them out last Wednesday from the post office, Priority Mail,(if it fits, it ships) for $16 plus change and then insured for $200, came to $19 plus change. Got notification it was delivered to Tennessee Clutch on Friday. Today the clutch was received by me. I have to tell you, do not hesitate to use this company for your clutch requirements. I was expecting a relined clutch disc and the clutch assembly to have the fingers adjusted .200 inches high to account for the cut down flywheel discussed above. What I received was a new clutch disc, a new throwout bearing installed on the sleeve, a pilot bearing, an alignment tool, and a completely rebuilt clutch assembly with new springs, adjusting nuts and the pressure plate resurfaced or it may be a new one. Randall at Tennessee Clutch obviously knows his business and does quality work. He quoted the work at $75 plus $21 shipping, totaled out at $96 plus change. There was a note with the packing slip that I could just send him a check!!!!! Who works like this nowadays. Gotta say it was a pleasure and a very quick and easy transaction. Am amped to get it installed. Will advise.

Earlier today decided to do the silicon rtv seal around the shaft ends and the lock bar and bolt head. May be temporary but I will feel better having tried to at least slow down the leak. As I was trying to clean the oil off the surface so the silicon rtv would have a better chance of sticking, it looked like some of the surface was covered with black paint. Was wondering if maybe that's what they did originally....paint the transmission and seal the leakage points with the paint. Wasn't there a paint called something like "glyptol" that was used to paint machinery. I think it was even used internally on engines to ease oil flow and help prevent the stiction of sludge to internal surfaces. Ring a bell with anyone. Probably no longer available cause of all the bad stuff in it that made it work so well.

Transmission is filled to bottom edge of fill plug hole.