Bingster

Rich, dinner is ready. Can I try to call in about an hour? Would you prefer that I call?

From where to where? And, how can I get the hose through that bracket? I have the bracket and there is no way that I can pry it apart to get the hose through.

Can anybody identify this part off a 1947 Desoto S-11? I'm not certain the photo link will work. Chicago Tribune Banner0003.pdf Chicago Tribune Banner0003.pdf

Do you mean that two-tube fitting that the plug wires are routed through? I think that is one of the nicer designed parts.

Have you ebay'd for older pins? They're not something that goes bad unless they are very pitted.

Silly me! I knew I saw that somewhere and I have a nice color diagram and there it is. Thanks for reminding me. See, that's why I need this forum. I'm not going to be able to restore "Carlo" without you guys. Any gals?

I took a lot of parts off the engine when I was going through my first "newbie" restoration. Some things I labeled others I did not. Ditto with photos. So now I am looking at my engine compartment to see what I need to do to try and fire it up. The distributor has a hairline crack in it. So that settles that question, but what? A new cap and rebuild kit? I'm a body kind of guy, not an engine. I can bolt things on and hook things up but as for rebuilding carbs and fuel pumps and distributors, I'm always afraid I will get the thing installed, it won't work and I'll have to tear everything apart again. So, what if I got a distributor from Bernbaum? Would I be assured of the right one and quality? I must say, I asked a collector car museum/restoration shop near me and they gave very high marks for Bernbaum's parts and quality. So plug wires from him also? I just don't really know what parts I can trust that my local auto store has that will work for these old cars and what won't. Plugs, sure. Plug wire most probably. But a distributor? Don't know. Ditto with a new coil. Seems I can get a WIX oil filter element there, though. But right now I am concentrating on the plugs, wires and distributor, and maybe the coil. I should probably try and start it with everything that's in there now. After all, it fired up when I bought it seven years ago. Then, replace everything piece by piece once I know it runs.

I'd be very interested to see those. What diameter did you get?

Am in need of a diagram for plug wires to distributor for a Desoto 1947 Flathead 6.

Just wondering if I got a new distributor for my S-11, would I have to set the points myself? And where would I find a good quality one?

Could you send them your photo of the washer along with a diameter and see what they say? I believe they are a supplier of quantity and maybe don't want to deal in piecemeal sales. If so, maybe we could go in together on a larger quantity.

I'd be very careful of the brake cylinders you buy as per all the feedback on this site. Don't you fellas think that re-sleeving from a place like White Post is the way to go?

I looked at the wclco site and that washer in Casper50's right-hand photo above is about as close as you're gonna get if it comes in the same size. I'm gonna contact them and see. Maybe they'll send a sample.

That washer that looks like a flower is almost impossible to come by. I could use a couple of dozen myself. But as they usually will never be seen, any similar weight washer will do.

I see that he original wire ones are offered by a couple of vendors. Did you find that the plastic ones made the panel snug down tight to the door? Where did you get the door panel material and what was it like? Did you do your own upholstery on them? Would be very interested to know how you did a panel.

I finally removed my door trim panels because birds were using the material them to build their nests. They actually got into the car through the floor. Anyway, I found along the bottom of a couple of doors an insulating material like you blow into house walls. Either it's a mouse nest or they put it in at the factory. Anybody else see this? Also, the trim board itself. Looks like some sort of tar impregnated card stock. The spring clips are very difficult to pry away from the panel and there is a tough residue sticking to them. I did see 1-10-47 stamped on the back of one panel. There is a web site that offers backing panels and says they are cut especially for specific cars and years. I'll have to find out more about that. By the way, I just bought a tool on-line that that removes the handle pins from the door shafts. Works great! $24.00 free shipping. Anybody have a good way to get into the door cut-out holes to remove rust? Maybe some electric wire brush extension. I've never used rust converter and I'd rather get rid of the rust mechanically if I can. It looks as though a guy could upholster his own panels using the old clothe as a pattern. I'm assuming they attach it with some sort of adhesive?

I've been looking at spark plug wires sets and am wondering which is a good set to buy? I don't need OEM or NOS.

Thanks. I have the ivory wheel with the dark emblem area. My wheel is shot. A lot of little hairline cracks that can't be filled with POR7. I suppose they could be sprayed with a lot of primer/filler. Easier to find a wheel in better condition.

You guys with a Desoto S-11 . . . Do you know the difference between a horn ornament for a gray wheel and an ivory wheel? (No, there's no punch line!) Color?

I just looked on my '47 Desoto, which I have the rear fenders off, and I have been able to piece together a whole welt, with the exception of the curved portion that goes into the sill molding. At least I know where the welt begins and how long it needs to be. I can stretch it out to get the length, and cut the knew piece, holes and all. It should not be a problem leaving extra at the sill molding and cutting the excess off. The original was obviously die cut as one piece. I figure as the car came to this part of the assembly line, the bolts were put through the fender holes and the welting placed over the bolts. Then the guy pushed the fender into the holes on the car body, and as the bolts were tightened he he fit the round bead around the fender. There may have even been another guy that handed him the fender complete with bolts and welt. I definitely see a bead on the old welt with the impression of the fender into into it. At any rate, I can see the spaces cut into the welt allowing it to be curved. By laying this old one over the new one, these can be marked and cut. I don't see any other way. The welt material is a type of card stock with a weaving inside it. As it tears you can see the fine weaving material. Where you'd get this same stuff I have no idea.

Big deal to me, too!

How do you bench test a generator? I took it off the car some years ago, painted it and had it stored. It's a six volt off my 47' Desoto.

My main concern is that when I replace the fuzzies, that once installed they will not bind on the window. You have no way of knowing till the door's assembled, do you?

That seems more my speed! Replacing them in more or less a one-by-one fashion, although not quite that tedious. Granted, the dash has to be done all at the same time. I have to remove it anyway to grain it. I suppose just make a lot of notes and take some photos.

I do have a nice color wiring diagram but it really scares me to rip everything out and start anew. The diagram tells you where and what color, but the routing is left up to you. How hard is it to duplicate the old routing, or do you kind of fake it?