Bingster

Found the tech videos on You Tube!!

White Spyder, I tried to find your older posts about the training film links but couldn't find anything. Any clues?

In rebuilding fuel and water pumps, are NOS gaskets still good or where are the best aftermarket?

Are you saying stay away from Kanter's?

Or borrow a Romulan cloaking device.

Sounds very good! So, should I just go ahead and change them no matter what?

That's fine, thanks!

I hadn't gotten around to thinking about the tie rod ends on my '47 Desoto, but as I have all the other front wheel and brake parts, I wondered if while I'm in there, that I should just go ahead and replace the tie rod ends. And, with so many vendors plus NOS, I'd want to go NOS or some American-made end, if they exist. Or does it really matter? As for adjusting the new ones. If I made a mark on the connecting rod where the old end stopped on the thread, would the new one match it? One really nice thing happened when I found a fella right in my tiny home town who works on flat heads. An older guy. I'm very excited about firing up the engine sometime in the summer under his supervision.

Front brakes are disassembled. Will check rears. Thanks.

I have to move my Desoto a few feet here and there. The clutch pedal is removed, and I'm not certain what gear I'm in. Don't want to mess anything up. With Fluid Drive, does it make any difference if I don't use the clutch pedal? I've never driven the car and so have no experience with Fluid Drive. Also, what's the best place place to hook to the front end for pulling? Will a Chrysler 300 be able to pull it out from having the wheels sunk into the ground a little? Not much, but enough so a couple of guys couldn't push it out.

I've thought about doing that. Plywood is still a little scary. Do yours is pretty safe, you think? The car feels solid?

File was too big too upload?

I can't recall how to post a photo.

I'm going to jack up the front end and let it down on a couple of r.r. ties while I remove the front wheels and work on that. First, where is the best place to place the hydraulic jack to get the car up? Which frame member? Then, use that same frame member for the ties? I'm on dirt and don't want to use jack stands. I won't be going under the car.

Yeah, I'm done with Moore's.

Moore's, but I ordered two parts from them and waited weeks and a lot of phone calls to have them sent, then it arrived and they left out one part. A lot of waiting and more calls and still not sent. And their prices are high for old iron. What I bought was a spare tire wheel well, and I am not certain that they cut it out with enough metal left to make it work.

I use one of those small hand blasters that are about fifty bucks on my garnish mouldings. It's not a harsh blast and takes everything down very nicely. I can't imagine trying to sand out rust and rust pits by hand. After blasting, I hand sand with 150 grit and finally with one of those 3M yellow pads, fine (180) Comes out smooth as a baby's you know what.

You know, every time I hear the name Bernbaum my mind says "Don't risk it." I came into this hobby and forum with no knowledge of him/them. I hear somebody's bought the business. But it's been on this site where I got that impression about their parts. I ordered one of his catalogs early on, buy got trained to look elsewhere. So would all of you not hesitate to buy a part there, rubber or otherwise?

That does look nice! My problem is that I have no pecan trees and therefore no extra cash to but a lift, even if I had a place to put it. Although I have a huge metal building with a dirt floor, but cement isn't cheap either. I'm hoping that once the car is running, I can find an old garage that still has the lift in the floor, and maybe use it on weekends or something.

Eastwood does have a kit with a flanger and adhesive. If you Google it they do have instructions that show how it's done.

I've heard some pretty good things about adhesive for pans and such on a welding site. They are pretty impressed with the strength. They say they're using it for jet aircraft. Eastwood has a kit that is adhesive based for attaching sheet metal. Anybody try this stuff?

I will.

My trunk floor pan is rusted around the deck lid latch panel. The spare tire well was also toast but I got one from Moore's in Rapid City. I question the way they chose to cut it out of their parts car but it may just be my inexperience. There is a sheet metal place near me who has done good work for me in the past on smaller things. I'm going to see if they can come up with something. Then it occurred to me that the factory welded the trunk panel into the body before they attached the body to the frame. Therefore there doesn't seem to be any way that I could either cut out the old one as a pattern or install a new one. I guess I'd have to have them cut a kerf down the middle of the new pan so I could wiggle it into the trunk cavity, then weld it in when it's set in place. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I also think that Rich Hartung (sp.?) used somebody's rubber on his vent windows. He might have some input. I was planning on using Steele. I've heard so many things about Andy's on here that I have the opinion that their vent rubber would be somehow of lower quality. Maybe I'm wrong. Or maybe it was just their brake cylinders. Metro does rubber as well.

What are the dimensions of your garage and do you find it's enough room?