kencombs

I always pack the oil pump with vaseline before installing. Helps it start pumping immediately. First started this when working a little Buick aluminum v8 in the sixties. Oil pump was in the front cover, internal passage to pickup in the back. Factory manual specified the vaseline packing to get it primed quickly. Decided to do it on every pump. A lot of the engines I worked on in the 60's-80s were for sale and sat for days, weeks or months before their first start.

Darn, that is a long drive shaft to reach all the way across the block, and engage a slot. I've done similar with Fords but the hex shaft is much easier to align and hold in place. And much more room above the engine that beside it when installed.

No, I've always removed a plug and used one of the others, not the filter connections.

I've never seen such tool. How is the pump driven with no gear? I use an external pump or pressure tank to prime through one of the ports into the main oil gallery on the drivers side.

IMHO, nothing fed into the carb inlet will do much of anything beyond the exhaust manifold. Water and/or alcohol will clean the combustion chambers well, but the resulting loose carbon will get deposited in the muffler. The exhaust just cools too much beyond the manifold. The 'italian tuneup' is likely the best solution, but wait for nice warm weather and find a location with lots of uphill runs to get as much temp increase as possible for as long as possible. And repeat weekly.

That looks terrible. But, I'd bet it has existed since the block was cast. I'd run it as is and this is why: There is no oil under pressure in that area of the block. There is almost zero load on the tappet bore, just an up/down motion with a minimal side load from the cam contacting the lifter base. As evidence I offer the fact that I've never encountered a worn bore, even in engines with many, many, many accumulated miles. And have never heard of anyone else finding one. Yes I know it is a lot of work to remove and replace the block if it doesn't work out, but I'd gamble on it working fine. After all there is a lot of machine and assembly work done and salvaging that is worth the gamble in my mind.

No real experience with that seal but I'd bet that the presence of the fluid would stop that leak. The ground surfaces will still have minute imperfections that are filled and sealed by the oil itself. Can't guarantee that of course, and it's a long way back in there if I'm wrong. So let's wait for an expert.

grab this kit: https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-paint-system-starter-kit-17-piece-57508.html and the adapter to your gun. Saves lots of cleaning time and solvent and is spill proof. With the adapters available it will fit most guns. No need to strain paint as each liner has one built in. Easy to mix a little bit and save left overs as long as it doesn't have hardener.

Great cars. Dad had a 54 with powerflite that I used as my fancy date car in high school. Same engine, same body with slightly different trim and grill. That little hemi is surprisingly strong. Sure wish I had one for my 56 pickup. But they are getting really hard to find and even more expensive to machine and buy pistons etc.

Or, park with trans in reverse. If it's properly assembled OD is locked out when in reverse.

The only Mopars I have experience with that had trans-mounted park brakes were the later internal-expanding drum and shoe on Powerflite and Torqueflite units. They were excellent! Would lock the rear wheels at 36-40MPH with a strong pull on the handle. The only weakness was the lack of a locking or limited slip differential. One wheel on ice made it totally ineffective.

With the overdrive cable in the OD position, but speed less that the governor setting, the drive shaft will not turn the trans output shaft when coasting. So clutchless shifting is possible.

The bolded word above was an accurate typo. If the sensor lies we need to know.

I've used cans of 'cold galvanizing compound' made by Rustoleum for that. It is just powdered zinc in a fast evaporating binder. I suspect that is what the SEM stuff is too. Anyway it works for me. I have a bunch of it on the shelf bought at a big hardware store auction years ago.

In my experience, If the hand throttle was used at all, it was to control the speed of a transmission-mounted PTO. Usually operating a winch or pump. Used to use our old wrecker that way when rolling up the cable after a pull requiring all of it to be fed out. Set the speed, then go back and hold tension on the cable to make it lay nicely on the drum. Local dairy had a vacuum pump setup on a tank truck. Old engine mounted under the truck, with the PTO shaft driving the crankshaft of the pump/engine. Intake manifold connected to the tank, set the throttle, engage the pto to spin the 'engine'. When the tank had some vacuum developed open the intake valve, connected to a hose immersed in the manure pit from washing out the barn. Sucked it dry. then dump on the pasture. Sod farm had a similar setup to water the sod field. Suck water from the river and dump on the sod using a spray bar on the back of the truck. both used the hand throttle loading and unloading. Lots of uses for the hand throttle that don't readily come to mind!