kencombs

The VIN wasn't a thing until I think late 60s. Makers had serial/model info on the body ,engine and sometimes the frame. Different states used different info on titles. In OK they used the plate on the cab/firewall that has a SN, weight etc. Other states used the engine, which can cause problems after an engine swap. My 56 has the tag on the left side of the firewall, kind of hard to see. Mine had a one digit mismatch from the title because the last digit was misread by a KS owner or official sometime in the distant past. Luckily I got to deal with the Cherokee nation tag/title office and they looked at the tag and corrected the title without a big hassle.

Yes, the gear is not a Chrysler (or Ford, or Studebaker etc) but made by Gemmer (I think) with common internal parts and case castings and Pitman arms to fit many.

IF you have an air hammer, I've found that using that around the center of the hub to help. Hammer at a right angle to the axle. I think it helps to release the tapers bond axle to hub. Can't hurt. Edit to clarify. Do this with the puller installed and tightened. Repeat tightening the puller screw afterwards. And, it is obvious I guess,but be sure the puller screw is well lubed, makes it last longer and turns more of the turning force into pulling force.

I don't see any thing that supplies a slip yoke function in the new parts pic?

I have a 56 PU. It uses a standard spicer u-joint in rear, and a ball and trunnion in the front. I think just like yours should have. That type of drive shaft has to have the slip joint incorporated into the shaft itself as the transmission has the bolt on connection rather that more common splined shaft that accepts the front shaft's slip yoke. Mine is in good shape and everything, but unfortunately I'll have to remove the front slip parts along with the flange that bolts to the trans. I'll have to cut it off and add a new piece that fits the ujoint in the slip yoke I'm using to fit my A833OD transmission. The parts are like these: That will get replaced with this and my slip yoke/new joint. Luckily, my shaft now is way too long so I'll have plenty of tube and the rear part to use. just cut, insert yoke, weld, straighten and done. I hope. The reverse process could be done to make one that fits your truck.

I posted a similar answer yesterday, but it's gone! Anyway agree with Andy, except for another terminology thing. The part in the pic is an 'upright' in my neighborhood, the spindle is the part that receives the new bushings that get reamed. Very seldom does the hole in the upright (or the similar holes in a solid axle) need any work. Once in a while one will find on egg shaped a bit due to operating with bushings that where really worn, allowing the pin to get banged about.

Here is the best pic I could find that shows how the kickdown, solenoid, governor and relay all work together to only interrupt the ignition only while shifting.

IF the oil is coming from the intake, either past stems, or in the intake air via the PCV, the back of the valve heads should show signs of that. I really can't believe that much oil enters the cylinder past the rings with the compression you have, unless the oil ring has failed. In that case I'd expect to see signs of that on the cylinder walls.

I am not familiar with that engine, but some of the newer, smaller, especially turbo-charged engines have issue with the PCV systems that cause similar things. GM's version especially with the intake changing from vacuum to pressure they have difficulty with reliably managing the fume and oil flow.

Regarding the ignition interrupter function, it is important to note that this grounds the ignition for a very short period. And probably won't be noticeable with the test you are using as it lasts for milliseconds while the solenoid plunger is moving.

Depression pipe? Probably on an iPhone, misspelled 'extension' and auto-correct 'fixed' it.

Not gonna give my opinion, because it only means something to me and me alone. But I'll recommend a visit to bobistheoilguy.com Don't go there unless you have a lot of time available to read the info though. But I will say that I use detergent oil in everything, 15w-40 in some and 0w-20 in some. Even some full synthetic.

'slim wirerope' sounds suspiciously like the backup spring from the front seal.

I don't understand why one would source a coil from petronics if you have a points ignition. Any quality stock replacement is fine. As to the ballast resistor and their comments, I really doubt the competency of the tech guy as there are no coils with built-in resistors. ** There is a lot of discussion on them but what they really are is different number and gauge of windings, not another component. And as far I know Chrysler never used them or ballast resistors on 6v cars. ** The exception to that rule was a few temperature resisted coils used on a few mid 50s Mopar 12V cars. I've only seen a couple of these, a thermistor located in a little compartment on the bottom of an otherwise stock appearing coil. In any case, before condemning the coil get yourself a spark checker to insert in the coil or plug wire and be sure of the lack or presence of a spark when it misbehaves.

That spring and linkage is to assist with depressing the clutch, not simply to return the pedal. Without it the pedal would be much harder to depress, release the clutch.