40P10touring sedan

Got the interior mostly out of my 40 4dr sedan, so I just went out and checked...there's an oval plate the holds the square nut in place and that plate looks to be tacked on to the inner body. I can easily see two of them with the kickpanel out. Said plate has all 4 sides holding the nut so you probably lost your tackwelds...an 18mm open end wrench fits nicely over the outside of that nut while it's in the holder. You'll have to remove your kickpanels to get to them and an extra person wouldn't hurt unless you use a visegrip on it from inside while wrenching from the outside...I'd soak them in pb blaster or the penetrant of your choice then try the above.

Hah, that happened to an old friend of mine eons ago- he just finished putting a tune up on ferd granada when it seized up...sort of. We got over there and found we could back the crank up nearly all the way around before it stopped cold...then we pulled the #1 plug and let all the antifreeze squirt out as we turned it all the way around and it was fine again!

Flooding sucks...I know! Back in 96 Illinois had a huge amount of rain dump on us here in a very short time...18" as I recall. I'm 6'4"/36" inseem and in the middle of the street it was up to my privates...lost my new car and most of everything I owned - we do survive, eventually. I hope the process back to a normal life goes quickly for all....and maybe FEMA will be more helpful to those folks there than they seemed to be for me then....

I know it's the wrong car for this, but as soon as I read your finds this stuck in my head- "beep beep, beep beep, the horn went beep beep beep...."

Seems UPS is now up and running around the north east, just got an email that my new carpet is being shipped from new jersey....wonder if it's dry...the carpet, that is... Glad to hear folks damage was low key...storms like that can be a real mess!

Rodney, if ya notice in the red lettering there above the list of running boards it states that "the rubber is vulcanized to the new 16 gauge steel running board"...means a whole new assembly. I wonder though, if one could send solid shape, pre-cleaned oem running board steel bases to this manufacturer and have them recover your oems...and probably for less $$. I've always questioned if the coupe's boards were any different than the sedan's...according to the list they're all the same.{?}

Where'd you find that decal paper at...or is it a sticker...either way it looks nice.

See Pm-

I've seen quite a few freshened up flathead 6's around but no one speaks of how they did they're break in. I'm in the process of going thru my 265 chrysler and wonder what the fresh break in speed and time is for a motor like this since the rpms are lower for this motor...as I recall for a standard V8 it's roughly 2000 to 2500rpm, raised and lowered during the break in time and that time was roughly an hour...but that's for a V8. Any thoughts or input as to what you folks do for your fresh flathead 6 break ins?

I just litened to the whole thing...pulled the timing pointer all the way right and waited for the vid to reboot...it did...took almost 30sec.

I here about all these trans adaptors being used, but no-one has ever posted a good shot of the fabbed brackets to mount the adaptor to the oem motor mount pads...would love to see that someday as to how folks did it...not harping at you about this Bewillie..just saying in general, it'd be nice to see how it was accomplished per any given application.

I heard not too long ago that jeep had a new L6 motor out and the jeep guys, one of my friends being one of them, were all excited over it....I know nothing about it but the web might shed some light....and as said - it is a mopar. Wish there was a way to get some of the older FWD mopar motors...turbo V6, 2.2/2.4 L4 turbo and the like, adapted to a RWD trans for use...I know my 86 GLH turbo, though a much lighter car than my 40 sedan, went like heck with that motor.

...X2....if she's not timed right or the cam isn't indexed correctly...add incorrect fuel adjustments...she won't fire even from a lightning bolt{1.21 gigawatts as I recall}. Now I'm not saying you did any of the things above wrong...folks here are just stating you should double check to make sure it's all good...it really doesn't take much to fire an engine up, even an old 6v, when things are set right. These flatheads are just a lawnmower x6 and we've all started our lawnmowers with an easy pull...it's not much different here with a slow speed start{cept no pull handle here}.

A few questions Bewillie, -"swp" chevy pulley.... short water pump- right?{I'm not that much of a chevy speak guy} -How does the motor run without the oem crank balancer?...that might make me worried without one. -Got passenger side shot of the head where the bracket is bolted on and would like to see that top alt bolt mount on the bracket...looks like it's bent. I'd almost think a bent up a tab on that bracket, parallel to the back of the alt, for the alt top bolt to go thru might be stronger...I might... ...nice looking set up!

Nice...she's alittle cold blooded- huh? What mufflers?

So what's the "best" sized pipe to run for the system?...duals.

I want to do the same thing for my 40...stock/bomber!...but an early 50's "fastback" would be cool to see.

Got it now, cause everybody has one.... Maybe sell the bagged frame, someone might want it and it'd be some cash to throw back in the new ride.

Ah, got it. Hey Moose, how bout some shots of the winner...even if dirty. I think I can speak for all here in that we love to see a good flathead, especailly a great one!...what do ya say?....

...circle the wagons{cars}, do a few burnouts, and aim the headlights on the stripper pole for light!

Huh?...you got broke down and someone decided to build models?..what kind of models....40 plymouth 4dr sedans in resin?

To keep a flathead 6 and aquire a modern auto trans...OD or simple old 3 speed, theres two choices....GM adaptors or mopar adaptors. Now, to aquire a different motor/trans in there....that leaves things wide open as to options....I'd try and keep the engine/trans from the same donor vehicle though.

Thanks for the heads up...I'd like to see...no..."hear" more mufflers here with a description of the muffler so those of us who are still deciding what mufflers to get can get a listen to what's out there....I'm still thinking smitties but I don't know..

I would echo that finding a 49 wiring schematic to start with and then anything{why not mopar?} that's a 12v friendly schematic then compare circuits and wiring...map it out, lay it out in the car and then replace one circuit at a time. I have the very same wiring harness for my 40...was cheap{$168} and still good quality....and 21 circuits. For my car, I planned on a mopar 60amp alt and voltage regulator from the early 70's, but after rethinking things I've found the 60 amp isn't going to be enough, so I either find a larger mopar unit or do the tried and true GM 1 wire/diode thing....me, I'd prefer mopar stuff in my mopar, at least as much as I can. BTW- "alt not big enough" entails modern radio, vintage air heat/cool, unisteer under dash electric power steering{so I can keep my oem column and wheel}, electric wipers, alarm and power locks...the two big ticket items to draw amps are the AC{30amp} and the unisteer{30amp}.

I still missed it...so what "is" wrong with the maroon chop top? You could fab new motor mounts for a flatty 6 for it and sell the bowtie mill if you want...or is it you just want a new toy to mess with? As far as a new flatty 6, I'd lean you towards a 25" chrysler 265 motor simply for the displacement attraction...you know the ol saying..there's no replacement for displacemnt! Frankly I'm waiting for two things to someday happen; 1- someone has an aluminum flatty 6 block cast with big bore holes and a slightly wider bottom end for wider rods{bolt clearance/added stroking}, lets toss in a forged crank while were at it.. 2- someone putting "two" flatty 6's together to make a V-12 ...it could happen! BTW- didn't know the car "had a belly button"....