40P10touring sedan

My friend's mom has a washer like that but her's a alittle more rounded and has a lid for when it's running. It was allocated for shop rag cleaning as she didn't want those in her good washer. Its funny to watch it swing back and forth as it's running...non-locking casters weren't such a good idea maybe....

Got it!...and it's just a tad worse than mine for cracks as all my cracks are in the 3 spokes and not around the ring. ...yeah, that brown isn't the most attractive color I've ever seen, and my wheel is filthy but I'd bet it won't look that much better clean...but this is coming from a guy who painted one of his old Kaw H-2 750 cycles in HOK hot pink pearl shimmerin...so that takes me out as the paint color judge I guess!

Lee, I didn't know about that with the 55 chev....and that's my fave year of the tri 5's. Question sir, is the rubber mount in pic 1 a speedway?...I've got 2 sets fo the speedway mounts in boxes, but I've never pulled them out to look at them...I have an area..."things to go in the plymouth"...there they sit among other things.

True sir, and that is a minor concern for me on this thought process only in that they do sit alittle farther forward than a normal modern low/front mounted block would be. I know these motros aren't on the light side, I do think the oem overhang front motor mount is up to the task...if the engines made far more HP my thoughts would be different. I would keep an eye on a set up as I suggested for any stress cracks or fatigue on the front mount, but I really think it's stouter than that.

Oh, I wasn't in any way....just trying to streamline the process. The oem trans hung loose off the backend of these rear blocks for a long time with no ill effect, but they were changed for a reason come later models...now why, I don't know......

Yup, now picture my front mount the same as it is oem but remove the rubber isolator from the top of the motor mount to the bottoms of the mount corners...."the mount and high attachment point to the motor remains the same", one would only be swapping the rubber location with the same mount.

Yeah well that washing machine just doesn't make up for the lost visor! I'm digging the "moss patina though"....that's probably the idea for the late 90s "spanish moss green"...I could be wrong though...

Next chapter- With the new bracket cut out and trimmed to fit the dash bracket, I installed the motor assy and then installed that to the dash support. I still have enough room for opening the cowl vent after having to rotate the eletric motor 180 to clear the dash support...leaving it the origonal way would've required some serious dash support cutting and the loss of the lower dash support round rod- didn't want that! As you can see from the above pics, this system clears the cowl vent arm just fine...at the closed position it's the closest to the wiper motor, but it still has some room at that point. Next up is indexing the wiper arms since the supplied wiper arm actuator is alittle longer than the oem one...more time and tinkering will happen, when that happens. I will report back when that occures...

I just realized I never posted this here, so, here goes. In an effort to help myself and others I have decided to remove the vacuum wipers on my car and replace them with electric wipers. The problem is I'm a cheapskate....I found an electric wiper conversion at speedway for a 40 ford...anyone who knows speedway knows they don't support old mopars which is really a shame, however, I can make this work. The Vintique Inc wiper conversion is only $125 thru speedway so I went with that knowing a new mounting plate would be in order and I could do that cheaper than finding a set system for my car..so here goes- -here's the stock bracket that has 2 nuts that hold it up to the dash bracket. -you can see the slight forward offset of the actuator arm from the bracket. -another shot showing the new wiper motor and it's bracket compared to the old one All I had to do is match the forward offset and center it per a new bracket and I"m good. A minor catch was that, "supplied", the motor was to be on the RH side but that got in the way of the dash support, so I swung it 180 around. My new concern was cowl vent rod clearance which turned out to not be a problem. -I measured the offset so I could rest that with the new bracket. -here's the new bracket waiting to be cut out and bent. ...too be continued...

Any luck/progress Chopped?

Are you saying reversed 3 point? That would be interesting...

Alright, back from church...I scrounged up the amp meter and hit the motor with 12v from my power supply...she draws 5amp initcial then settles instantly at 1 1/2 amps draw...free spinning - no load! I'd simply guess that a decent 3amp load will happen with the car on the track.

Agreed, the "kids" just have fun, we "adults"...that's another thing - we want the bragging rights, well, some of us do...

Ah, so it's the rare "dodgesoto"..might explain it....

My "other reason why"...second from the left....My Son. I like to show him that one can do nearly anything they set their minds to if they try hard enough... ...and of course there's the bragging rights to be had among the adults as well...

A golf nut I am not...last time I was at the range I was dead left end of a cresant shaped driving line...sliced sooo bad I nearly hit the guy on the dead right end...now that ball had some spin on it! Needless to say, I'm not a golfer, but more power to those that can! "Why the car"...because that I can do...once I figure out how to power it. Add My step brother in law says he's gonna show me how it's done on his pack's track...the gauntlet is in need fo being hurled back at him! I'm going big!

Sorry, 2nd cup of coffe now as well as looking at pic 3 did it...didn't even need the glasses....sorry.

I know.... most seem to easily mod their brakes to discs{and why not}, add racks for steering or switch all or in part to 12v for modern conviences{radio/AC/ease of bulb replacement or LED technology}, add electric wipers instead of the vac system and of course there are those who swap out the inline 6 for a more modern motor and 3 point mount those as they usually are...this is why I chime in with why not do the same 3 point mount for a flathead 6...when swapping in a modern auto trans of course. I don't see why it couldn't work. Of course, I'm the same guy who asked why can't someone come up with a 6v compressor clutch for vintage AC cars who don't want to swap to 12v...the early systems were 6v...yeah, that's a whole nother feather ruffler ain't it- lol.

Is that a running board side chrome strip I see on your car?...nice ride, love the sun visor look.

I guess it depends on how solid the body and fenders are and how many cars the buyer had seen that were in worse condition...and maybe he just wanted a mopar really bad. Seems kind of high though, but not as far out as some of the prices have been lately for some folk's stuff...to me, that's a ferd or chuvy price range...not a mopar price as they tend to be less{great for us when it's time to buy - not so good when it's time to sell}. Wanna talk crazy....what was the price for the last oem dash clock you saw for an early 40s car....I saw $300 and that was without the glovebox door still...now that's crazy...to me.

Now, before anyone asks "why a gremlin?", well, here's why...it's one of the few 1/25 scale cars that I have fits the "size requirements". Width is the biggest issue with a ton of the model cars I've checked...followed by length. I wanted to run the 41 plymouth coupe soooo bad but it would take a load of mods just to get the width down to a usuable level! The Gremlin is just right, after the rear wheel well was opened up for the wheels, and there's a certain comic relief involved too, and she's a mopar still....and oh yeah, it's the "X" model.

Ok, let me add this to the equation, for safety sake. My plan is to install a micro lever switch to the front of the car...the starting pin will close it when the car is placed on the track and when the pin drops the car will arm and go. Another switch...a push rod on the side of the car, will get pushed in at the end of the track to shut it off as soon as it hits the pillow and kill the power. I've seen a few duct fan cars set up this way and it works. Believe me, the last thing I want is for anyone to get hurt...my son will be there too!

Matt runs a memory pillow at the end of run and it's stopped all the cars without damage...I"m swapping to one for our pack track. Let me add to the above that "some folks" have ran rocket power on a longer track...1/2 A engines - just craziness!...some folks, alot actually, have ran CO2 powered cars on a 32' track, alot of folks run duct fans...you can see mine in the one pic, and I even saw one guy who ran a bungee cord of sorts..."that" woulkd worry me as the cord could fly off and hit some scout!

Why ask?....well, some things seem pretty sacred around here...and while I don't wish to ruffle feathers, I gotta figure there's a better way for everyone - and me. Add Lee is about to embark in this type of swap for his 52 and if I can make it easier for the two of us, as well as others...then so be it. I spoke of this concept a while ago in a related thread and got a couple of "that's not how your supposed to do it" responces...I get that I suppose....but I think this can work, and it's been my idea since I 1st wanted to do a trans swap in my car. Seems folks are somewhat set in the notion that these motors need 4 mounting points when it comes to a modern trans swap, and I can't figure out why. Oh, I do plan on doing it this way for my car...it's been set in stone already, in my head at least.

Spent the majority of yesterday trying to figure out if another of my ideas will work...use of several capacitors to power an unlimited class pinewood derby car with an electric slotcar motor...no actual onboard batteries needed...and yes I know a battery is a capacitor of sorts. The theory here is to charge the capacitors in the pinecar just before a race, and use those as power for the slot car motor knowing it'll only last a few seconds, which is all I'd need for the 32' track length. I hit the motor with 7v...I was playing with the plymouth dash pod lighting so it was handy...and the motor goes well with that, but that slotcar motor can take up to 18v max. So, Im looking for a combination of capacitors that will make, lets say, 15-16v for a short burst. Typical "gravity powered" pinewood cars will run the track in 2-3 seconds...I'm shooting for "1 second"! This is our 1st regional unlimited/open class race coming up this february, so I want to make an impression...again, as my semi truck last year was voted best design for a long time - she took 3rd place, in roughly 60 some participants, in speed as well. Now, here's the current power train- And here's the car of choice- yeah it is a gremlin for multiple reasons The only rules are that the car has to fit in the 2 3/4" wide by 7" long official size box...weight is still up in the air but I'm figuring the usual 5oz max. Any input about what capacitors I can use in series?