40P10touring sedan

Well, it's only two wires that are suspect...mainly the grounded one. Start with that one and slowly backtrack thru the circuit using a voltmeter...at least your car has fuses, my '40 doesn't have any. I remember back in auto shop long ago...we were tracking a dead short on a '65 lincoln and after nearly two days we found it in one of the passenger door window switches...the car wouldn't hold a charge for anything over a day. Honestly, it's only fun when you find the problem!

I'd go back and ask what an official document would entail for they're liking...they should be happy to tell you and I'm sure they've gone thru this before......gee, all this to get a tiny lil title there.... ...I had two folks at our dmv question the lil pink slip of my ex cali 70 cougar{came from bakersfield}...the 3rd person to walk up pointed out what I had already where the certificate of california was on it. Not too many folks around "here" show up with those I guess.

Yup, I can see it easily now....the regular dash for that car is far more squared off. Are you going to leave the dash, tweek it more or head for stock? Your car, your call. That a mid 50's chevy p/u in the background...nice!

Nice! Got a less blurry pic of the dash...yours seems different than mine...center and glovebox look alike, it's just the speedo assembly looks different{typical of canadian and US versions I hear}. edit- btw, nice blending of the new running boards...I like that better than stock!

Happy for you on the great day, as for that '49...eh, I'd shoot for a '53, '54, or '55{my fave tri 5's}...though the boat in back looks like fun too{I got a thing for boats lately- wife started it!}.

When I took auto shop, we use the stalk type lappers- they used the valve guide as a guide for grinding the angles...if the valve guide was worn or loose you'd get off center grinding...even alittle is enough to cause a problem. Mind you, I have no idea what he used or how he did them....I'd pull the head and valves, take a permanent marker and mark the valve seats, then slap the valves a few times to see how they mark the seats. It'd be a good time to hike the valves up and look for play in the guides...if he didn't replace them and maybe knurled them you'll be looking for new ones to be installed. Once again, I have no idea what he did to the motor, this is just random guessing..

I'd say Hudson....it's a guess...

The relief port comes into play at the very back end of the release stroke, so rod end play is critical...as you can tell. BTW- I like that MC on summit, if you go with that one let us{me} know how it works out...looks really slim and for my '40 I need that.

Ah, that explains it...on some of the newer models!

My 40 did the very same thing...the more you hit the brakes, the more that pedal would pump up and stay there...unless you let it sit for a while. My relief port was fine...sounds like yours is too...my problem was the PO set the rebuilt MC with no play between the rod and the MC piston...should be 1/4" to 3/8"...remove the floorboard or come at it from undernieth and pull the rubber boot off of the MC...use a good light and see if there's any movement of the piston when the rod off of the brake pedal is moved alittle bit...you'll need two wrenches for your friend to readjust the rod length...make sure thye're tight when your done....heck, could be loose now?! If it isn't the MC or the freeplay of the rod, start looking for the wheel{s} that lock up, maybe a bas brake line is collapsed internally and restricting the flow back to the MC...happened to a guy here and the hose in question wasn't that old{a few months I think...just made bad or went bad}.

Got it..must've skimmed over it...they're in the same rpm boat as us huh...wow, that they could rev alittle higher. Thank you-btw.

...yeah, no doubt!...where was the car...I missed it?!

Well, that's because it's pontiac...not chevy!

...yeah, as far as I've seen, there's no provisions on my '40 standard clutch trans for any switch....maybe later versions. Maybe on the fluid drives....?

I had it figured out once to make my own b/u switch set up. On the select trans one would need to have contact switches on the lower selector lever{1st/rev} and the upper operating lever{2nd/3rd} so that when both were aligned in reverse the two contacts would make a whole circuit. Either one by itself wouldn't be able to do it since "both" switches have to be closed/contacted to make a full loop. That was the idea anyway...

Had one of those 307's in my '73 hatchback nova. I liked the 215 Olds motor my '74 vega got even better!

A- So long as it's not a Lucas system in any of them, we should be fine. B- How bout that newer Volkswagon van that actually a mopar...just VW trim accents. C- I've never owned an AMC...I could handle a Marlin{come on...when's the last time you saw one of those?}

Ah, heard about that one- my pan has some JB weld in one or two spots. My thoughts were to have my mig welder/sheetmetal buddy make a new front/lower section for the oil pan, and as long as the inner pick up area isn't compromised, I should be fine. To find a good oil pan would be great...hasn't happened yet, but I'd still have to mod that one anyway if I could find one. Figure I might as well tweek what I've got since I've got it. I've read about the cav rack install and the tie rod issues with that...I'm really liking the in-car, electric power steering set up...no pump on the engine, no lies to run, self contained, uses up to 30 amps, and has a default back to manual steering if it fails or overheats...so no SCCA racing I guess. I will have to revamp or replace my intended 60 amp mopar alt though if I do that.

Could, I know....but since I have the 265 already and really like it I want to stay that track...personnal judgement call I guess, it just looks cool with the "Spitfire" on the head and all{add full oiling too!}. Neighbor has a 230ci in his 55 savoy that he'd sell me cheap, still isn't the 265. I'm commited...or maybe should be...

While trying to stay out of the politics thing...is it really such an awful thing to put a chevy engine in a mopar...there's two reasons for doing that- 1- lil bowtie engines are cheap to put together, find parts for and support for- true!...I could honestly say no other motor has such a following on all counts. Maybe if there were as many mopar flathead 6's out there we'd have that kind of support too. 2- to rattle someone's cage, but anyone can do that...heck even I could with wanting to put a chrysler in my plymouth, someone could look at that with the very same attitude. Some folks would look at me as being insane to pour the intended money into my flathead 6 as opposed to any other engine that would yield better performance numbers for less money...I choose to do it because I want to. Isn't it just nice to see anyone keep any old mopar out on the road to drive it?...I don't want to be a hater....I've owned and liked other makes, but I loved my mopars. Alright, I'm off my soapbox now as I need it to paint my rear axle...

Hmmm, not as readily found I think...what do you search under, "arguments in this forum over installing a chevy in a mopar"?

Yeah, it's the same everywhere I'd bet....ford guys vs chevy guys vs mopar guys...and now you've got the young kids and their rice cars. Every once in a while a really cute girl walks by and we get lost for a moment...then back at it! Love those valve covers..."desoto" might be better{ducking...hehehe}.

47, the H.A.M.B. would actually be better suited to the swap info...here we normally run mopar engines of all kinds....and a few of us run something different as well....to each his own on that...I don't judge. -As for your wide tires...you'll have to back half it and tub depending on just how wide and crazy you want to get...this strays to pro street territory. -New wiring...yeah, do it! You'll need to modern wiring, fuses/block and capability that the oem wiring simply won't have for you. Painless, EZwiring, Rebel...there's plenty of places to choose from to get that. -An 8 3/4" rear out of a C body car can be shortened up and you could add discs to that as well...there's plenty of axles that could work. Rustyhope and a few other places sell front disc conversions, or you may decide to go with a fatman or close mustang II front clip for a dropped or simply better handling. -Your not wanting to be a purist, or close, will rattle afew folk's cages, your going to have to take that one in stride in this forum as there's alot of purists here...some of us are alittle more relaxed about it. I, myself, can see the cost benefits of an sbc set up...but my friends would razz the hel...eck out of me..I've had a few offers of free bowtie motors for my car from them...and I know why! I choose to stick mopar for mine, but it's my car and my choice for my reasons...I get to do that...and those chebby dorks will actually respect me for that.{hehehe} Honestly, the H.A.M.B. will be your best bet for the drivetrain issues and questions...when there look for "farmer12"...one cool, bagged, chopped, smoothed 41 plymouth with a hemi in it...that guy knows no limits and he's a great guy too....from what I hear anyway.

Have the shipper bring cash...

I know...for me to go 1" forward would be no issue....to go 2" forward would be....to go up 1" and 2" forward should be tight and may require some crossmember relief/radius on top to allow a belt change. ...excellent tip on the "flats" on the balancer...didn't know that{yeah, I'm only 47}.