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MarcDeSoto

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Everything posted by MarcDeSoto

  1. But on the post war Lockheed brakes the brake shoe linings are both 11.5" on the front axle and on the rear axle the front shoe is 11.5 and the rear shoe is just under 9". All I want to know is it ok to put 11.5" shoes on the rear axle front and back. I continued to learn how to use the Miller 19 tool today. It took some experimentation as the parts can go together is several ways. With the help of Rick, I finally got it figured out, I think. I put the 41 sleeve on the rear axle and the 70 sleeve on the front axle. And I used the pin to determine the inside diameter of the drums. Thanks, Marc.
  2. Does anyone know why the two rear brake shoe linings were originally only about 9", while the other shoe linings are 11 to 12" on a 48 DeSoto and other Mopars? Bernbaums told me the short shoe linings are no longer made, so why were the rear shoes made shorter in the first place? And will putting in the long shoe linings in the rear affect my braking somehow? Thanks.
  3. That bracket looks like the anti-sway bar on my 48 DeSoto. That bar swoops up and over the differential and bolts to the other side of the frame.
  4. After talking to Rick Hartung, I think I know how to use the M-19 brake gauge now. I found out from Rick that I use the 41 sleeve on the rear axle and the 70 sleeve on the front. I'll see tomorrow when I try it. Just wondering if it's OK to go against the shop manual and Parts Book and put in a 12" shoe on the rear of the rear axle brakes? The book says it should be about 9" in the back.
  5. Can I use the shoes I have, or do I have to change those shoes on the rear axle? The book says the rear shoe lining are supposed to only be about 8" long. When I look at parts dealers like AB or Moparpro, they don't specify what shoes you are getting, front axle or rear axle. Is that a mistake? Do garages still arc brake shoes?
  6. I talked to Rick Hartung today about the M-19 brake gauge. We discovered that I must have the wrong brake shoes. The two back shoes on the rear axle are supposed to be shorter than the other shoes, about 8" as opposed to 12". But mine are the same length as the others. I bought these shoes back in the 80s, so too late for a return. Can you still buy these shoes from a local source like NAPA, or do I have to go to a specialized dealer?
  7. I'll call you now. Thanks, Marc. My number is above.
  8. The first tool kit you showed is a Fluid Drive rebuilding tool kit. then you showed a front end tool.
  9. Ok Dodge, here's your hell. You know as well as I know, that the shop manual says very little about the M-19 tool. They have pictures of it yes, but they don't say how to set it up. I'm perplexed about how you set it up to measure the drums for example. Bob, yes thanks for the instructions on how to use the AAMCO tool. I do own one, but it's missing the micrometer shaft. If I can't figure out how to use the Miller tool, maybe I could borrow your shaft. Thanks, Marc. My number is 951-331-1941
  10. I am getting ready to make a brake adjustment on my newly installed brakes on my 48 DeSoto bus. coupe. I have the Miller brake gauge tool kit, but don't really understand how to set it up. I don't have any instructions. The sleeves or cylinders that I have are 32, 33, 41, 47, 70, 74. I read that the 41 sleeve is for post 1938 Mopars for the rear axle. Does anyone know what sleeve is for the front axle? Also I don't know how to set up the tools for measuring the brake drum. I think you have to balance it on those cone shaped pieces somehow. Does anyone have any more information? Thanks, Marc.
  11. Luckily, my filler plug, which is male, was as good as the day it was installed 74 years ago!
  12. You can still hear them streaming on the Net. I read that they were on for 37 years! I was surprised to learn that they were in CARS and CARS 3. The older brother Tom died in 2014. Ray with the black moustache is still around born in 1949. It was not a serious auto show, probably 75% jokes and 25% shop talk. They probably would not have made it to a national audience if it was serious show. I saw that they wrote some books also. One is Maternal Combustion!
  13. All this talk about tappets makes me wish the radio show Click and Clack, the Tappet Bros. was still on! Funny, when I rebuilt my engine, I had no problem at all with the tappets. I think they were machined and then I put the original tappets back in.
  14. I may have used the wrong name with Easy Out. On the package these tools are called Pipe Nipple Extractor Set 1/8" - 3/4" NPT made by Pittsburgh from Harbor Freight.
  15. I tried the Ken tool with 1/4" square and it didn't work because the square hole was stripped round. Correction: I said above that I used a 3/8" easy out. As shown is this pic, I used a 1/4" easy out.
  16. By George, you've got it! 1 quart, 1 pint, and half a cup is right! Unless you have the long wheelbase 46-48 DeSoto in which case it would be a whole cup, or 1/2 a pint as DeSoto put it. They sure didn't engineer that drain plug very well with a female square 1/4" hole. Now I have a good 3/8" drain plug with a male square head.
  17. I actually got the that pesky diff. drain plug out. It had a stripped female 1/4" plumber's plug in the bottom of the diff. What I did to get it out was buy an easy out kit. It was the kind where you hammer a 1/4" easy out into the plug. Then, you put a half inch wrench on it and after heating it several times with a propane torch, it finally budged. The threads on the plug were fine, not rusted like I thought it was. Now I bought a 3/8" plumber's plug and screwed it in. The old diff oil was black and ransid. Glad I got it out. I put in a quart of diff. oil in it, but the shop manual calls for 3 1/4 pints. If you've forgotten your elementary arithmetic, 3 pints = 1 1/2 quarts and the 1/4 Pint = 1/2 cup.
  18. I found this guide to the Miller tool from Rich Hartung.
  19. Now I'm trying to adjust the brake shoes and I really don't know how anymore. I have both the AAMCO and the Miller-19 brake tool kits. I assume you have to first determine the diameter of the brake drums before you adjust the shoes. The Miller tool to so complex I don't know where to begin with it. Maybe there are instructions somewhere on the Net. Also how do I know if I have the right brake shoes on the rear axle. I think the rear shoes are different than the other six.
  20. I am starting to put the shifter parts together now. I took the shift rod completely apart in order to install the steering, shift rod pad that will bolt to the floor or cowl? I'm glad I have the parts blow up to help me figure it out. This diagram doesn't show the shift control rod that comes up to the shift lever. Contrary to what another poster said, that the control rod rubber bushing was just to suppress noise, the bushing is essential because it is the only thing that attaches the control rod to the lever assembly! I have to wait for my bushing in the mail now as the first one I got was rock hard and cracked in half when I pressed it on.
  21. I got the all brake lines and fuels in using store bought pre-flared tubing. It was not easy, but I got it done with the help of my handy man. Now I'm onto the daunting task of putting my shifter rod parts back on. I called Bernbaum and he said he would send another bushing with softer rubber to replace my hard rubber one!
  22. I say if you want to try your hand at flaring, go to O'Reilly's. You can rent a flare kit and a tube bender for free for 48 hours. I think I would need something like the Eastwood Flare kit to do a good flare, but you'll pay close to $300. You can see it in action on Youtube.
  23. I tried to flare, but I'm no good at it. Maybe you have to buy a much more expensive flaring tool to get good flares. Mine just didn't look passable. So I'm going to O'Reilly's and buying pre-flared lengths. It's tough because they're either too long or too short!
  24. Great pics there! Thanks it is very helpful!
  25. I guess I should forget this pre-cut kit and just buy a 25' spool of brake line so I can put it together without using any couplers. I did buy a flaring tool kit at HF for $80.
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