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MarcDeSoto

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Everything posted by MarcDeSoto

  1. Here are some pics. The line for the rear axle was too long, so I had to loop it down low. I'm thinking of redoing it and cutting it off. I bought a new line flaring tool. I show the right front brake and the right front brake shoe. Should I toss them and buy new ones? Thanks, Marc.
  2. Here is what I did today. I included a pic of the right front brake drum and one show some dirt or grease that got on the shoes. Should I discard these shoes because of the soil and order new ones?
  3. Thanks Bryan and Happy! Does it matter which connection on the MC you connect to? I think I put my lines opposite to Bryan's. Bryan, is the brake connected to a clip on the cross over front of the frame. I see the fuel line is, but I'm not sure about the brake line?
  4. All you have to do when you come to a stop light is open the door and put your left foot down on the pavement. Don't do this barefoot! And wear some shoe with a good leather sole. And give yourself a quarter to half a mile to stop. Or does Canada use kilometers now?
  5. I wonder if the paint chips are accurate enough for a paint shop to do a computer match from the paint chip?
  6. I'm pretty clear on how to route the brake line from the MC to the rear axle, but the front brakes have me stumped. At least from the MC to the brake light switch. The shop manuals and parts books aren't very clear. The Parts book shows the front line going over the MC, but that seems odd because the pedals and everything are in the way. Does anyone have any pics or a good description of how to route the front brake line? Thanks, Marc.
  7. Pardon my ignorance, but what is AB?
  8. That looks right JB. It says it is for 11" and 10" brakes. My brake shoes are 11.5", so I assume they would be considered 11" brakes. I think I will go ahead and order these. It's odd that the only suppliers that carry these parts are Dodge truck and military vehicle dealers. Thanks, Marc.
  9. I found this "how to" video on Youtube about how this guy fixed some bushings on his old Subaru. Maybe something like this would work?
  10. My DeSoto uses the same part numbers as Dodge, Plymouth, and I assume Chrysler over many years! The oil felt washers are 1 13/16" OD, 13/16" I.D., 5/16" thick. The cupped retainers would be the same. I'll call Midwest Military on Monday to ask size specs. Thanks.
  11. Midwest Military sells the felt washers and retainers for military vehicles, but don't know if they would fit. They don't give the size specs. https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/product/brake-shoe-anchor-bolt-kit/
  12. Looking online, I found a store that sells the anchor bolt felt washers and retainers, but don't know if they would fit a 48 Desoto. https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/product/washer-felt-oil/ I also saw that someone used battery terminal felt on his brakes. He would have to oil them though.
  13. I'm putting my brakes together on my 48 DeSoto and I saw that I'm missing the felt washers and retainers on my front brake anchor bolts. Little parts like that are not sold anywhere to my knowledge. Does anyone have a solution to this?
  14. I'm wondering if I can make my own bushing using some kind of silicone. I could squeeze the tube around the part. Then put the control rod loop on it. What do you think?
  15. Good that you have the guts to rebuild the trans. I've never gone that far and am afraid to. Congrats on your courage!
  16. I don't think this bushing is NOS. NOS would be soft still. I was amazed when I took my body off the chassis and found that most of my body mount rubber was still soft after 74 years! It's hard to find good rubber today because it's made in China of hard plastic, not rubber. I've heard that Steele is the place to go to get good rubber, but they don't sell this particular bushing.
  17. You can't put the bushing into the rod loop first because if the bushing is firm it won't go in. The bushing has to be soft rubber.
  18. I fixed the break in the bushing, but what good is it if I can't put the control rod looped end on the bushing. The rubber just needs to be soft and pliable to fit it in!
  19. Good question. I think that spec is in error. I have a 1946 DeSoto Data Book. It says the kick down shouldn't be used when you are going over 45 mph. But I looked at this 1948 filmstrip on the M-5 transmission and it says that the kick down feature stops working somewhere between 40 and 45 mph. If you want to see Mr. Tech explain it, go to about 18 mins. in this video: https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-a-the-hydraulically-operated-transmission/
  20. I also noticed that the bottle that 90 w gear oil for you diff comes in the right kind of spout for filling in small holes. Thanks Tired Iron for the DTE oil suggestions. Marc.
  21. Did it fit right? What do I ask for at ACE hardware? Marc
  22. I bought a control rod bushing for my 48 DeSoto from Bernbaum's and the problem is it is made out of hard rubber, just like most all the other rubber being made today. The bushing is installed by pushing it over larger tapered piece, so it has to flex a bit to get over the hump. But this bushing is rock hard, so when I tried pressing it on with my vise, it just split in two. My questions are does anyone else make this part in soft rubber. And, can I use this bushing as is with it split in two? Marc.
  23. That's a good idea. I think I will do that just to make sure I don't need more fluid. But there is supposed to be some air in there. That's why you only fill it about 80% full. That is because the fluid gets hot during operation and needs room to expand. Thanks Marc.,
  24. If this is a running driving car, you can start out in 3rd, stick shift down, go up to 13 mph, let go of the gas for a second, and listen for a click and an upshift to 4th. If it does that, you have a Gyromatic. Also as said above check for the circuit breaker on the air filter support.
  25. You can also acces these filmstrips at MyMopar.com. Juck click on Mr. Tech. and go from there. https://mymopar.com
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