MarcDeSoto

the fan can also destroy the radiator it is gets too close! Did you tell Champion that you have a 25" engine and that the mounting brackets are wrong?

If your platform is dirt, I assume it's not garaged. Maybe you could have a little driveway by pouring some concrete down? it's not very safe to jack a car up on dirt.

Should I coat bolts going into water jackets with water proof sealer? What is a good way to knock out the oil seal? Should I knock it out from the front side out the back? Also, I wonder if I should remove the Oil Seal Plate Package, shown above in DodgeB4ya's last pic? It's sold as a replacement part, but probably not availible today. Maybe I can just order the two little rubber seals in it?

Wow, looks beautiful! My shop manual advised me to just order a new hub. Guess you can't do that anymore! Sniper, thanks again for telling me about the Speedi-Sleeve! I went on Amazon and orderd the National brand Redi-sleeve. I lucked out because they were offering free Prime for a month, so I'm getting the part on Wednesday!

I looked for new hubs and couldn't find any. So it looks like I need one of those sleeves. Do you think O'Reillys would have them to order?

Yes, it does look like I have groove in the hub from wear. Where do I get a Speedi Sleeve and does it replace the seal that comes with the timing cover gasket kit? I wonder if I could just buy a new hub?

Thanks for those pics. That will help me with reassembly! May I also ask which way I pound out the oil seal from the timing cover. I think I pound it out the back?

Got the plate off finally. Nothing was holding it but 40 years old gasket sealer!

I removed the cam sprocket and chain, and the all the bolts that secure the outside perimeter of the plate. But I'm having much difficultly removing the plate itself. I didn't remove the crankshaft sprocket as I don't think that is necessary. I can barely get a prybar in the top of the plate, but something seems to be holding it tight. Any ideas why I can remove the plate?

Today I removed the timing cover off of the front of the block. Water started to drain out of the one of the top bolts and I think one of the bottom bolts. Is this normal? Also I guess to remove the plate you have to remove the crank and camshaft sprockets and chain, correct?

I've seen it before and I would say it's a good video for people who have never done or seen this work done before. Or to refresh one's memory, if it's been decades since you have done this work. His photography is good and he is all do and little talk.

Is that pic from that lathe accident? Are those his clothes?

Can you describe what's in this video? I'm too squemish to watch it. Especially if there's a real death there. I never thought of my driveshaft as being dangerous because I'm three feet away from it. But I certainly could see that it could be, if I had a long pony tail or something like that.

Semmerling, I love what you did to your fan. I am going to that to mine! How did you put the 1934 on there? Does that signify the year of the car?

The other day, we found an oil leak at the front timing case cover. so we removed the radiator to get a better look at where it was leaking. My helper made a video of the engine before we removed the radiator and almost put his cell phone in the fan. I warned him about the fan, so he pulled back. There is a big difference between and engine with the radiator on and one running without it! After removing the radiator, I started the engine just for a couple minutes to see exactly where the leak was coming from. Then I went inside for a minute and when I came out, he said it's leaking really bad! In my alarm, I said really where, without thinking about the fan, which is invisible at fast idle, and I started to lean in to the engine. Luckily my friend said watch out for the fan! So my advice is if you ever need to start your engine without the protection of the radiator, put up a cardboard sign in front of the fan, or something to warn people that there is a powerfully spinning fan there and save someone's hand.

Yes, you are right. Someone must have screwed two or three 18 thread bolts in there and messed up the threads. I will tap those threads for 24 tpi. Also the Parts List gives the length as only 5/8", not 3/4". It's the camshaft plate bolts that are 18 thread. Since I'm planning on pulling the oil pan and putting a new oil pan gasket in, I guess I should do that first, while the engine is stil supported by the motor mount. Then mount a couple of two by fours on jack stands to hold the block. Install the timing cover gaskets and seal, then the front motor mount. Then, remove the two by fours and install the oil pan.

You don't post a video here. You post your video on Youtube. Then you copy the URL and post the URL here, so we can see your video. I just started my engine too and have posted several videos of my work on it.

The ball and trunnion type was only used on Plymouth and Dodge, at least in the 40s and 50s. Not sure about the 30s. My u-joints are the cross and yoke type. I was able to fix the problem though, but I had to use new NOS caps because I ruined mine when I was taking them out. They must have got cocked in the yolk. See my "coil' thread for a video of the drive shaft turning smoothly.

I rented a harmonic balancer puller today from O'Reillys. The kit doesn't come with right size bolts for the crankshaft hub, which are 5/16 X 18, so you have look through your cans of bolts for the right size, or use the bolts you took out, but they are only 3/4" long. I pulled out the hub, so now I guess the next step is to support the front end of the engine and remove the front engine mount. Then I can remove the timing chain cover and proceed from there with cleaning, new gaskets, and new oil seal at the hub hole.

Yes, the stock seal comes with the timing cover gaskets. I'm buying Fel-Pro gaskets from Rock Auto.

My motor mounts are newly installed with the correct soft rubber. I'm going to take the clutch pan off and slide under there to see if the clutch is disengaging from the driven plate. But right now I'm working on repairing the oil leak coming from the timing case cover.

I don't know for sure what caused the problem with the front u-joint. With the new u-joint, I used new my old cross since the jounals were not rough and some NOS caps and blocks on it. Since I had gained some experience and used the proper press tool to install it, it went on smoothly. I had to press the cap on a bit more after installing the first snap ring to get the second one on. That is a good idea to remove the bottom cover of the bell housing to see what's going on with the clutch. As JerseyHarold said, I hope I didn't install the clutch disc in backwards! I'm also dealing with a new problem: and oil leak from the timing case cover, so I ordered new gaskets and seal for that.

Something's wrong. I'll try pushing the clutch in further, but that would be below the where the floorboard would be. I might have to pull the driveshaft and trans to look closer to what is happening with the clutch.

I wish I had that tool C-522 for centering the chain case cover. I was able to break the crankshaft bolt by placing the 13/16" socket in place and bracing the breaker bar against the frame. Then cranking the starter. The socket would explode off the bolt when I cranked, so I placed a drift in a hole on top of the frame to hold the socket in place. Then a couple hits of the starter broke it loose. I ordered a new oil pan gasket and chain case cover gasket. but I will need a new seal too. I've forgotten what that looks like or how to install it. I wonder if it can be ordered alone?

I have an oil leak, a bad one, under my chaincase cover. So I removed the radiator, fan, vibration damper, etc. I think I will need to replace the chaincase cover gasket and maybe the oil pan gasket also. Do I have to remove the crankshaft nut to do this? What's the best way to remove it. I have the socket and wrench. A friend told me to put the wrench on the nut and jam the breaker bar on the frame. Then, hit the starter button which turns clockwise. The breaker bar will not let the nut turn with the starter, and might break it loose. Is this a good idea?