MarcDeSoto

I know you guys are really enjoying this thread by now and I've got even more problems now! I got everything mounted and the radiator back in. Filled it with water and started getting more leaks. I tightened all the hoses, but a leak kept coming out of the water pump by-pass elbow. It was coming out where the two bolts that fasten the by-pass elbow go into the water pump. I tightened the right side until it was tight, but when I tried to tighten the left side, the bolt just kept on turning. So I took the heater hose off and removed the by-pass elbow. I found that a piece of steel where the threads are had broken off, which prevented the bolt from tightening down. I bought it three months ago, so I'm not sure if I'll be able to get a replacement pump.

Boy this job gets harder and harder. For my sealer, I'm using Permatex Water Pump gasket maker. Is that different from a gasket sealer? I went to the auto store and they didn't have any paper gasket, so I bought a new to me product called rubberized gasket material made for water pumps by Fel-Pro. I was reluctant to buy it, since no one recommended it, but I think Fel-Pro probably knows what it's doing, so I bought it. It's much thicker and stiffer than paper gasket.

I just removed my WP and looked at the back. Unlike my old WP which had small hex head bolts on the back, the new one has four Allen bolts! It looks like it has a solid gasket in there that is firmly attached, so I'm a bit leary of taking it apart.

Yes, the back of my new water pump looks new. I never knew installing a water pump was so complicated!

?Are you supposed to remove the back plate of the water pump? I never knew that and I haven't seen any instructions that say that. I'm using a new water pump, so I would assume that they put the back plate on correctly. The reason I used the rubberized cork gasket material is that it said it worked well in a water environment. But after hearing some of your suggestions, I have decided to rip it out and start over.

So do you mean gasket sealer just on one side of the gasket or both sides. And if it's just one side, would it be the water pump side?

I watched the Eric the car guy video on how to replace a water pump on a 2002 Chevy Cavallier. He said there is no need to put gasket sealer on the block or the gasket facing the block because that just makes it harder to replace the water pump next time. And he only put enough gasket sealer on the water pump to hold the gasket in place to screw the bolts in. He said the gasket is all you need to install the water pump. I don't know if this would true for our 40s cars or not. The video I referenced follows. The part that most interested me starts a 20 mins. in. And there is a part 2 also.

I am wondering now if it is bad enough to take it out and redo it with a paper gasket. The radiator is still off so it wouldn't be that big of a deal. Another question I have is should you put the gasket sealer on just one side of the gasket or both sides?

I just installed the WP with the rubberized cork. why is this a bad choice?

Since I have the water pump out, Keith reminded me that I should check my water distribution tube. I put a new one in, but that was 40 years ago. Maybe I should pull it out and check it. Just have to find the right tool to hook on to it. I remember 40 years ago having to have a welder weld on a metal handle. Then I had to use a come along to pull it out! It was rusted solid. I think this one should be in better shape. I might paint it with POR before putting it back in. Also any water coming out the block is very rusty. I wonder if there is a way to flush out that surface rust out the engine before putting the water pump back on. I've heard about running white vinegar in it to flush out the rust.

I think I'm going to make my own gasket. I have the usual paper gasket material, but how about the rubberized cork gasket material. It says it works well to seal in water.

So you use grease instead of gasket sealer on your water pump and then put two gaskets on?

The Chrysler mechanic filmstrips are excellent things to watch, or you can download the digitized booklets. You can find them at MyMopar.com. https://mymopar.com/chrysler-master-tech-service-conference-library/

So would that be 14 deg. F.? Yes that is cold for west Texas!

I'm in Temecula, So. Calif. It's 82 deg. on Christmas, but it gets down to about 42 at night, so I'm feeling the cold too!

These part numbers are in the catalog, but notice that you can't order them. It says call store for availability. The store says not availabile. Even AB doesn't have them except with a new water pump. But I assume that's just a typo.

I called NAPA today and they said the water pump gasket for a 48 DeSoto or Dodge is obsolete and they no longer carry it. I'll try again saying I want part FPG 4267.

I guess there is no way to get the water pump gasket locally, right? So I guess I have wait for it in mail from AB. I better order several the way I'm chewing up gaskets!

ARe there any tricks to have a successful water pump install. I have a brand new water pump, but it is leaking where the pump snugs up to the front of the block. I put the gasket in with gasket sealer, but still a leak. Could it be the bolt weren't torqued tight enough? Or the bolts didn't have enough water proof dope on them?

I mark my Top Dead Center with white ink and I painted the pointer yellow. Much easier to see. Watch Keith's video on youtube for directions on how to do it.

And after all that, Kyle says "Will it run?".

I don't think I have to do anything to the oil pump, do I? I think all I have to do is reposition the distributor shaft 180 and reinsert it in the slot.

I was having trouble with my timing because I was not at TDC when my rotor was at 7 o'clock. I'm trying to start my 48 DeSoto after 42 years for the first time after an engine overhoul. Thanks to Keith's excellent video on this subject, I found out that my distributor was 180 degs. out. Easy to see. When I stuck my finger in cyl. no. 1 the pressure came out when the rotor was at 1 o'clock. Thanks Keith!

Just watch Bogart in High Sierra if you want a lesson in how to drive a 38 Plymouth in the Sierra Nevada mountains with the cops after you!

In my restoration of my 48 DeSoto, I did nothing to the M-5 trans or the FD, except change the fluids and replace the ring gear on the FD. Why, because they worked perfectly before, but that was in 1980! Hopefully they still will. The car has been garaged since then.