Jeff Balazs

Congrats! It is amazing what you can do with a hacksaw or a file if you put your mind to it. Having some good quality bi-metal hacksaw blades and good sharp files has always served me well. You would be surprised how often they will allow you to get where you need to be without all the fancy tools you use once and then forget about.. Jeff

Remember to use it in moderation.

That is wonderful. Viva DollyDodge! Jeff

These days? I think the term "epic" get used way too much. That and Bro

Mike; Bummer.... but hey at least you tried. It is probably a case of a "swap in" done at some point in the distant past. When a vehicle like this get's to be this age it is often hard to know exactly what you have. Especially when you have only had it a short time and don't know it's full history. If it makes you feel any better I am sure that lot's of us have struggled with similar "identity" related problems......I know I have found a few. Nature of the beast. Jeff

Martin; If you use too large a drill in that bushing you will most certainly damage the threads inside the mount. The bushing itself does not have very thick walls and remember it is threaded inside and out. The trick is to either cut through or weaken it enough to work it out of the threads which are inside the mount. Jeff

Martin; EZ outs had little chance of working on this. Your going to have to tough it out with a drill. Cobalt steel bits seem to cut best for this sort of stuff. Once you get the shackle out you should be able to file through the bushing as I described. I took a look at a spare I have today and I would think you should be able to get through it in about 20 minutes give or take. My tool of choice would be a fresh narrow Vee file as it will do the least amount of damage to the threads inside the mount. Hopefully they are still in decent shape? Take a couple of minutes and make a handle for the file..... Makes a nasty little job a bit better. Jeff

What I am suggesting requires a careful approach. In my mind it is not a job for the air chisel and cutting torch mentality. The threads on the broken shackle itself have no significance to the final repair. The trick is to get the shackle out and go at the bushing very carefully. You need to try to preserve the threads inside the mount. A narrow V jewelers file should do the job. Once you are most of the way through the bushing then use a combination of small chisels and punch's to persuade the remnant of the bushing to collapse some and then remove it. You may need to notch it in two places. I have done similar jobs to this and almost always been successful. If you are careful and take your time you can do it. Jeff

That is a real tough one you got there. If it were mine I think I would do every thing I could to leave the mount in place. You might consider drilling out the remaining shackle using progressively larger drill bits until you can collapse the shell. Then you should be able to get either a hacksaw blade or jewelers file in and attempt to cut through the thin part of the worn threaded bushing. If you are able to do it this way some heat and penetrating oil should allow you to work the bushing out of the mount. Hope this is of some help. Jeff

This would be a good way to be certain it is ready for the big moment.. And it probably wouldn't hurt to have the re builder present either. Jeff

John; You should expect it to feel much like disc brake equipped vehicle of the late 60's or 70's that doesn't have power assist. Those of us of a certain age are quite familiar with that "feel". No big deal though it is something you get used to fairly easy. I would think this mod would go quite well with the other stuff you have already done. Going to discs is by far the best mod I have made. Jeff

I see a pre-lube system. One thing about how I was suggesting you go about this is that if you turn it over until you get oil pressure at the gauge you have confirmation that the oil pump has a prime and is working. I would be keen to know this. Going through this process will also perform a pre-lube.. Jeff

I am not familiar with that item. I suppose so as long as you can tell if your oil pump is making and maintaining good oil pressure. Perhaps someone in the know can comment? Jeff

You are welcome. I am sure you know the drill. One thing I would do just before starting is turn it over with the spark plugs out until you see oil pressure at the gauge. Jeff

That is looking real nice. Best wishes for a trouble free start up. Jeff

Hmmm. I am guessing his GF is really stacked.

The question is.........What seasoning is he using today?

Good point Tim. I had residual valves in my initial install (per several guidelines) and had to remove them to get my system working properly. Also I fitted a dual reservoir M/C that was as close a match to the actual brake components I used. Since I had swapped in an axle from a Grand Cherokee with rear discs I used the M/C from that same model. Balance was close but the rears were locking up first until I spent some time adjusting the PV. Modifying a brake system is serious business. It is not something to be taken lightly or scrimp on. Failure is not something any of us want to hear about. Jeff

Hank; Any time you tackle something like this type of modification it is best to have a contingency plan. You have to allow for differences in driving conditions and condition of components. Another way to say what I am trying to say is that there is not going to be a "one solution" answer for what you are looking at. When I decided to go for it and swap in an axle with better gearing and brakes I did so with the idea that it isn't prudent to cut corners on something like this. The moment you take a vehicle that is close to topping out at 50 mph or so and give it the ability to cruise at significantly higher top speeds you have to start compensating. As an example I have no idea how you would go about adjusting a modified brake system without a proportioning valve? Might not be a big deal at 25 mph but a panic stop at our freeway speeds could get ugly in a hurry if the system isn't well balanced. I know there are not too many Pilothouse trucks with 4 wheel discs but with this modification an adjustable PV was absolutely essential. I sure was glad to have it already installed when I started testing the brakes. Take your time and read up on everything you can get your hands on. Each mod like this has it's own set of circumstances........and safety not money or what someone else says works needs to be the decision maker. Jeff

Well when I was a lad.. ....and worked in a large commercial garage one of the worst things was to be known for "Mickey Mousing" a job. There was an unspoken zero tolerance policy.....and it was gleefully enforced by all. The very pinnacle of bad work was often celebrated by a derisive chorus of " M...I...C...K...E...Y...M.O.U.S.E......In falsetto. On at least one occasion I recall the offender quitting and stomping off the job. Things just worked better in those politically incorrect days. Jeff

In this here neck of the woods we called it "Mickey Moused"!!!

Ok,,,,,oiled foam over a K & N.......inside the oil bath filter housing. Jeff

And here I was just thinking....maybe the harness wrap will keep the smoke in this time?

Yes that seems to be the only way these days. I think with rubber products some of the issues may be batch related. That and how long they have been laying about? For what it is worth I think the compound that Steele uses for the Pilothouse windshield gasket is too soft. I had a dickens of a time getting it sealed up water tight. Jeff

I did all my own glass replacement. And I wasn't impressed with the fit of the Steele products or their customer service. Way over priced. I ended up using the vent window rubber from Roberts and it fit perfect. So opinions and experiences differ. Not saying Roberts is perfect..........just that paying more isn't always the answer. Jeff