bkahler

Which one of your many project vehicles are you referring to?!!!

If it's one piece all the way then I'd bet it's original. I wouldn't be surprised if mine is a replacement as it has been heavily wrapped with tape in a couple of spots for what I think was to keep it from rubbing on the frame. The splice joint is just forward of the spring shackle. I should amend my statement about fuel pump to tank. Mine does have (had) the rubber hose at the fuel pump. I will likely fabricate a replacement line and while doing so will add another filter underneath by the tank. Thanks, Brad

Question: Is the fuel line a one piece affair from the fuel pump to the tank or was there a splice/union in the middle somewhere? I've reviewed the link provided and that helped a lot. I've found the front half of the fuel line and it has a fitting in the section running along the side of the frame to the rear. I also think I found the rear section although it seems to have a section of hose attached on what would be the section that runs towards the front along the frame. Makes me wonder if someone spliced in a fuel filter and I've lost a piece over the years and moves that I've made. Thanks, Brad

The frame was sandblasted and then painted with a coat of Bill Hirsch's Miracle Paint and then sprayed with his Chassis Black paint.

That explains it, thanks!

These numbers are stamped on the side of the frame above the left rear wheel. They don't seem to match the vin number. Any idea what they represent?

After doing some research on my front end steering mess it appears the only thing I have to swap are the two pivot arms, i.e. swap sides so they point to the rear. The backing plates themselves are the same part number. That saves me a fair amount of work. Sometime this week I'll put the front end on jack stands and start. Some good news for a change Brad

I need some paint for touch up and will try and see if Sherwin Williams can still come up with the formula. If they can I'll post the info. Brad

Thanks for the link, good info. When I dismantled the truck all I had was the cotter pin and needless to say I was baffled by it for a long time until I saw the complete setup at a junkyard. Brad

Yes they are B&Bs. And you answered a big question that I was getting ready to ask about the fact the carb defaults to full throttle! I thought maybe I had put them together wrong Thanks! Brad

Ok, time for another question In the attached picture is the throttle linkage arm that mounts on the bell housing sitting in the right orientation for when not pressing on the gas pedal? I'm having to fabricate my own throttle linkage and brackets for the carburetors since I'm using the Offenhauser dual intake. Thanks, Brad

Eric, The color was listed as "Dodge Truck Green" for 1951 in the Sherwin Williams paint books. The truck was originally black but I wanted a green truck and got one Brad

Brian, thanks for the links. Pictures are worth a thousand words. Back in 97 when I was dismantling the truck I had a brand new digital camera that I thought would be the cats meow for the restoration process. Problem was it was only 320 x 200 resolution! Not near good enough. Fortunately I did use a regular camera for some pictures, just not enough of them. Thanks, Brad

Thanks for the tip on the jeep diff. My current diff is the factory optional 3.73 so I'm wanting to find out just how well it drives with that ratio. Brakes are a concern but until I get a chance to drive it I don't want to make any conversion decisions. Truth be told I'm probably getting to old to drive fast!!! Thanks! Brad

Does this look like the right placement for the fuel line? To me it sort of looks like a replacement piece most likely fabricated by some PO. The fuel pump was purchased new 21 years ago from Burnbaum and I'm betting that the new fuels in use today will quickly eat through the rubber parts in the pump. Anyone know of rebuild kits for these pumps that will stand up to the new fuels? I also noticed this pump has a 1/8-27 threaded inlet where the original pump had a 1/4-18 inlet. Thanks, BRad

So trucks shipped down under were all long blocks?

Here's a better picture of the radio opening. A Mopar 824 or 830 radio fits nicely in the opening. I just need to decide on whether to have a radio restored or converted.

Well I happy to say this discussion about flywheel bolts is now moot. Attached picture says it all ?

Well, doesn't that just take the cake ? Since it was 20 years ago I honestly don't remember if the studs were eventually put in place before buttoning up the engine or not. I didn't take any pictures yesterday of the rear main as I was more concerned about the condition of the cylinder walls and cam. Friday or Saturday I'll drop the pan again and take a look to find out if they are nuts or bolt heads. After I read your email last night I browsed through the service manual looking for any reference to those bolts and couldn't find anything. It's entirely possible I missed a reference so if someone could point out where it's documented that would be great. I did find two threads about those bolts which made for interesting reading. https://p15-d24.com/topic/23623-flywheel-bolts/ https://p15-d24.com/topic/49014-flywheel-bolt-problem-major/ Stay tuned...... Brad

Are you referring to my engine? I didn't see the rear cap in any of the pictures I posted. It's been 20 years since I fastened the flywheel to the engine and don't remember anything about it. The oil pan is not permanently fastened yet so I can pull it to see if anything is obvious.

Pulled the pan and pulled the valve covers. Couldn't ask for better results! No sign of water damage anywhere. The best news of all is the crank does turn!! After taking the pictures I got to thinking about it and decided to try again. As I turned on the crank nut only the nut turned and then after thinking about it I suspected that I hadn't tightened the crank nut back when I was assembling the front of the engine. At the time I was really only test fitting things and then the move from Arkansas to Kentucky took place so progress stopped. So I tried turning a little harder and all of a sudden the pulley turned indicating the crank had as well. As you can see in the pictures there is an abundance of lube inside the engine that gradually moved south over the years. With luck sometime this winter I'll try and start the engine. Brad

I think I have several things wrong. The curve on the axle is towards the rear. The shock mount studs are pointing towards the front. Should they be to the rear? This winter I'll just dismantle the whole front suspension and put it together right.

Axle? Or the steering arms that are bolted to the spindles 180 out? I guess it wouldn't surprise me if I have to completely dismantle the front end to correct things. Like I said, back when I installed it my focus was getting it loaded on a trailer for the move south! Brad

The radio opening is actually in the proper location. The angle of the picture is what is cauing the confusion. A Mopar 824 or 830 radio fits the opening.