bkahler

More tinkering this weekend. Got the firewall panel installed this weekend. I bought it from Roberts about 20 years ago. The quality is so so but it did fit for the most part. I suppose the worst part was they miss located the hole for the starter pedal and I had to cut about 1/2" out of the bottom curve to make it fit. All but one of the button holes were located correctly. Fortunately I had the remnants of the old panel which helped me locate the holes for the heater, parking brake and wiring harness. Only had to use a small portion of my four letter word library during the install. Brad

Ok, I found a reasonable deal on ebay for $35 each and ordered four. Amazon wanted $44 each so I figured I'd try and save a few bucks going the ebay route ? So it looks like my truck will have shocks early next week. Thanks for the info! Brad

Are you suggesting the 66858 for front and rear even with the discrepancy in the at rest lengths of16.25" and 19.00"?

The last few days I've been trying to figure out my shock situation. The oem parts manual indicates all four shocks should be the same so I ordered four monroe 31000 shocks as suggested by several threads. They weren't even close. Mounting id was wrong (5/8 instead of 11/16) and they weren't even close to the right length on the fronts. So that got me looking closer at my truck. The rears have an at rest length of 16-1/4" and the fronts are 19" at rest. Not even close to being the same! It appears the recommended Gabriel 82065 shocks will work on the rears. Now I have to figure what to use on the front. My truck is totally stock so I'm baffled why they are different when the book says they should be the same. Brad

Thanks for the link. I'll spend some time with it later this week. The internet connection to my house has been down since Thursday and at&t can't seem to figure it out ? So that leaves me with just my phone. Better than nothing I guess ?

I think I'm going to initially try a 1.4 ohm resistor with the stock coil. I really like the look of the stock coil, and probably more important, I've already restored the original coil! I'll probably mount the resistor under the dash where it will be out of sight. Brad

Yeah, finding a 12 volt coil shouldn't be to difficult. Just need to find one with the right mounting bracket. I've not read much on the H.A.M.B. but what I have always seemed to be good info. I took care of that problem a few years ago.......

Yes, I'm swapping to negative ground as well. I'm not saying I'm stuck on a 6-volt coil, that was just my first thought when I decided to convert. Mounting a resistor is not something I was looking forward to as it would just look out of place. Of course everything you read on the internet is true! I can't imagine anyone placing false information out there...... ? As far as building another B series around the 6-volt coil that sounds like the radiator cap syndrome. Remove radiator cap, drive new vehicle under radiator cap and reinstall radiator cap I will just about guarantee this truck will be my last. I'm also in the midst of restoring a 1972 Triumph TR6 and an a 1974 Airstream Argosy 20' motorhome. Both are money pits that put this truck to shame as far as cost are concerned! All while drawing really close to retirement. Brad

Interesting, I thought for the fan motor a different value of resistor would be required. I think most ignition ballast resistors are something like 1.5 ohms and the only really difference is the wattage. It'll be interesting to see what other's have used. Thanks! Brad

Based on this shock absorber thread and a couple of others that I read I bought four Monroe 31000 for the front and rear. Unfortunately they don't fit. The shock absorber studs on my truck are .690" (11/16") in diameter. The holes in the shocks are .625". Anyone else run into this problem? It looks like I'm still within the return window with Amazon but I'd sure like to know why my truck appears to be different than others. Thanks, Brad

Instead of going with a 6-volt system I am switching over to 12-volt. I will be using a 12-volt generator and regulator from a 56 vehicle. I would prefer to keep the existing 6-volt coil, at least for the time being so any suggestions on which ballast resistor to use? I will also need some sort of resistor for the heater motor and wiper motor. Suggestions? Thanks, Brad

It sure seemed bigger than 1/4" NPT, of course I had my reading glasses on which makes everything look bigger! I'm heading to the hardware store this weekend to find a plug and I'll post what it ends up being. Brad

Good point, based on the pictures I do believe that is what they are trying to show. I'm assuming in the picture the counter balance is shown with the valve in the open position which allows exhaust gases to warm the intake. Thanks! Brad

Ok, that makes perfect sense. The little metal tab is an alignment tool so the counter balance is installed correctly with no guessing. Thanks! Brad

The plug in your picture looks about right for the opening in MC. I can usually gauge wrench sizes ok unless it's metric and then all bets are off! Brad

Ok next set of questions on the heat riser When I had my manifold split I made sure the heat riser valve was still in place and functional (i.e. rotate smoothly). I bought a new spring and found documentation in the manual about which direction the spring goes. Somewhere on this site I found a picture of the heat riser counter balance that helps but I'm confused by a couple of things in the picture. In the first picture I've highlighted in orange what looks like a piece of string or twine. What exactly is it and why is it there? In the same picture I've highlighted in green a metal tab that is between the attachment bracket and in one of the counter balances it appears to be broken and the other just seems to have a smooth edge. What is that for and what does it do? The second picture shows the two counter balances that I have available. Does either look right? I guess the last question does someone have a link to a good description on how these things are supposed to be installed? I've searched but have not been successful in finding anything that makes sense! Thanks! In the

Thanks, that makes sense. The only thing that doesn't match is the opening in the end of my MC is at least a 3/8" NPT if not 1/2" NPT. I take the MC with me to the hardware store and get a brass plug that fits. This makes me wonder if my old MC had a smaller plug compared to the new MC. 20 years ago when I was doing the work I was mostly in a hurry because I was only home for a few days at a time and then gone for months. Then came the first of many moves....... Thanks again! Brad

Ran into a slight bump in the road last night. While looking over the new brake master cylinder that I had purchased way back when I noticed that the rear of the MC has a large threaded hole. At some point in time I did install the brass elbow on the bottom of the MC but for whatever reason I didn't do anything about the threaded hole. Looking at the parts diagrams it looks like a pipe plug goes there. I suspect the new MC didn't come with the plug probably because you're supposed to use the old one. Unfortunately In this case I don't have the old MC laying around nor do I have a plug. Can someone tell me what size/type of plug to source? Thanks, Brad

I guess I'll try going the snail mail route and see what happens. Thanks Brad

So how does one go about getting a build car for the truck?

Back in 2001 I sent my brake lines to Classic Tube and had them bend a set in stainless to match. As of yet I have not installed them but I do know the short tube on the diff is not correct so I'll have to recreate at least one. The front one that goes around the front cross member seems to be correct as does the one that runs along the frame from the tee back to the rear rubber hose. I was planning on using stainless tubing from Amazon for the fuel line as well. Connections to the carburetors will be with inverted flare fittings. Brad

Which one of your many project vehicles are you referring to?!!!

If it's one piece all the way then I'd bet it's original. I wouldn't be surprised if mine is a replacement as it has been heavily wrapped with tape in a couple of spots for what I think was to keep it from rubbing on the frame. The splice joint is just forward of the spring shackle. I should amend my statement about fuel pump to tank. Mine does have (had) the rubber hose at the fuel pump. I will likely fabricate a replacement line and while doing so will add another filter underneath by the tank. Thanks, Brad

Question: Is the fuel line a one piece affair from the fuel pump to the tank or was there a splice/union in the middle somewhere? I've reviewed the link provided and that helped a lot. I've found the front half of the fuel line and it has a fitting in the section running along the side of the frame to the rear. I also think I found the rear section although it seems to have a section of hose attached on what would be the section that runs towards the front along the frame. Makes me wonder if someone spliced in a fuel filter and I've lost a piece over the years and moves that I've made. Thanks, Brad

The frame was sandblasted and then painted with a coat of Bill Hirsch's Miracle Paint and then sprayed with his Chassis Black paint.