austinsailor

Guess I'm a little slow. I don't get any of it???

Funny to hear you say that, Tim. I worked at Motorola for many years (actually 6 different times, but that is a different story). They seldom wanted me in meetings. I called a spade a spade and it usually contridicted what they were trying to sell to the troops that day. Suited me fine. I only got invited when they really did want the truth.

Use the hammer on the outside, put the dolly on the inside. Tapping on the area next to the dent will drive the dented area into the dolly, moving it out. Doesn't do it fast, but go slowly as you move down the crease working it out a little each pass. If you try to bring one spot all the way out before moving down it'll stretch the metal. Doesn't seem intuitive, but I was surprised how well it worked when a body man showed me. I removed all the hail dents, door dings and creased in roof on my 47 road tractor the way. It works until you run into metal that has been stretched, then the torches and all can come into play. I never mastered that part.

1. sandblast them. 2. put them in an engine/parts washing cabinet. Sort of like an industrial dishwasher. Either should clean the parts. Both work for me.

Well, I made a couple short videos and tried to upload them to youtube. I guess it's been sold to Google and now I can't figure out how to make it work. What a pain.

Inserts hVe a coating of babbit.

I'm trying to reassemble my 53 Plymouth 2 door hardtop rear window. One corner is a puzzle. I'm hoping someone has one, or a 54, maybe even 51 or 52 and can look at theirs. On the top front corner there is a right angle joint. Inside there is a right angle piece of metal that holds it together. The top used 2 countersunk screws. The front edge just has holes in both the exposed chrome and the inner angle piece. My glass man took them apart 2 years ago, I doubt he remembers. My best guess is it had a little rivit of some sort. Can someone look at theirs and see what it looks like? Also, I haven't figured out where the little piece with the chrome end sticking up came from. Could have been from any of the three windows, although I doubt the rear one. All that is accounted for. The attached pictures should help explain what I'm talking about. That aluminum block in the lower left is the thing I'm making to replace the original cast part that is crap aluminum.

No, I've had it for 10 or 12 years. They had it in an old bus garage sort of downtown. I got it out like a day before they were to tear the building down. They had pictures of it being taken out of a house basement, quite a chore. Those guys (2 owners before) bought it as some sort of sale at Ford. And yes, it will take quite a bite!

You can have pistons made easily, therefore have them made for current production rings. The bearings can be re-babbited if you remove them with care. Timing gears (no chain) might be a challenge. You might not get off the shelf parts, but you certainly can rebuild it. Find me one and I'll show you!

I mentioned in another post that the motor on my shaper crapped out. Well, got that antique thing off and apart - 200 lbs of monster 3 hp motor from 30's or 40's - and found my biggest problem was mice! Mouse nests, mouse crap, and a couple petrified mice. I guess I need many more traps. I figured the brushes and maybe the armature were shot, but once they were all cleaned up and the junk out, it works just fine. A good cleaning of the crap (litterly), refacing the armature and seating the brushes - It's great. You might enjoy the story of this thing. It was orginally in the Ford prototype shop in Dearborn. A couple guys in Canton, Ohio bought it to make some sort of sport bicycle parts 15 or so years ago and used it until the guys in china saw the market and took away the business. They put it on Ebay, I think it closed at $112. Probably well below scrap price. Problem was, It was in Canton Ohio, I was in central Missouri. My wife was in Texas and knew nothing about it when my dad and I took off one morning to get it. Left about 5 am, got to Canton late afternoon. Put it on the trailer, turned around and headed back. Now, I make a trip now and then and wives don't need to be worried, so I often don't mention it. Usually she never knows. But, I figured she'd hear about it so I decided I'd let her know instead of her hearing from others. After all, with Dad going it wasn't exactly a secret. I'd talked to her several times but she never asked that important question, "Where are you?". Now, being an emergency room nurse, she hates small airplanes. Seen too many bodies show up at her door, I guess. Dad and I both have pilots licenses, so I called her up and said, as I often do, "Guess where I am?". Of course, she knew right off, as usual, she had no idea. So I told her, "Canton, Ohio". "What in the world are you doing there?" I told her we were trying to decide who was going to drive back and who would fly back. "WHAT!?" "Oh, we bought this airplane and one of us has to fly it back. " After a bit when she calmed down , I told her we were kidding, we just drove up and got a piece of equipment I bought. Compared to an airplane, that was as good of news as she'd gotten in some time. She's never complained about me having it!

Mine were in my 47 WKA 3 ton, I think the other was about a '53 3 ton. Saw the truck when I bought the motor, he had put a Cummins in it in the backwoods of northern Wisconson.

30" head. 7 main bearings. I have 2 331ci versions. Pretty big beast. My 331's have a nice throaty rumble, I can't imagine what a 413 would sound like. Add some compression and a cam......

I've been looking for one also. Found a couple, but none that anyone would sell. You lucky dog, you!

Frank, you, and really no one who uses this site, is a moron when it come to cars. Now, the average guy in the street - that's another story.

Do not use hydraulic oil in your motor. It may be slippery, but it will not protect the bearings. I learned this expensive lesson through experience. Varying engine speed is not for cam break in, it's for rings. In reality, it's not even the varying speed that is needed, but the heavy loading to set the rings. Saying "varying speed" is just the way to get the message to the average moron - oops, did I say that?? - who just bought a new car and doesn't know a ring from a synchronizer. The best way to break it in is to lug the motor, like, get into high gear at as slow a speed as you can. Then floor it, going up to as high a speed as you can. Repeat this as often as possible. This will set your rings and break your motor in much better.

Missouri allows blue dot for "Street Rod" and " Custom vehicle" registered cars. You'll find the statute interesting. At first registration the must pass an inspection done by the department of safetyl in consultation with the street rod community of the state. Guess who wrote the statutes for them?! http://www.moga.mo.gov/mostatutes/stathtml/30100001321.html

Now, here's an off the wall version. Old military vehicles can be registered in Texas by their military # painted on. The problem is continually explaining and proving to the lawmen who stop you it's a valid method. Just like one driven by the military, no tags. A step farther, a half track (but not a tank) can be licensed for the street. imagine a half track with a machine gun and no tags running around your town? Yes, I know of a guy (now deceased) who did that. Scared the hell out of a lot of people!

Some states (Texas) register by the frame/drive train. Put a 30 Plymouth body on a 2000 dodge frame, you've got a 2000 vehicle. All the emissions and safety stuff to go with it. Same car in Missouri would be a 1930 plymouth and safety and emmisions requirements of the 30 Plymouth. And still eligible for antique tags. It's great! A kit car built recently would be registered as "What it most closely resembles". You can probably guess where I have my old cars tagged!

I am another Missouri antique tag holder - 8 or 9, I'd have to take a walk around to be sure. Someone asked why you would. 1 no inspection - ever. 2. $25 for 1 license - good forever. 3. 1000 miles of personal use per year. You keep your own records. At least in Missouri, no connection to whether it has antique insurance or antique tags. I have an 87 International dump truck I use to go to the quarry, mostly. Antique tags for the above reasons, commercial policy because nobody will sell antique insurance for it. I have had antique insurance on a vehicle with regular tags - until I realized nobody cares how many miles you go with antique tags. As to safety equipment, every place I've checked safety/emissions requirements were based on year of manufacture not registration type. Just for the record, and it was not easy to find in the statutes, took me and 2 cops. Half an hour to sort it out - seat belts are required if seat belt mounts were installed by the factory, regardless of whether the belts were originally installed by the factory as sold.

I've called for a number of things but, just my luck, they had none.

I took my windows apart 2 years ago to have everything chromed. Came out great, now I'm trying to re assemble the frames. The rear window is no problem, but the front and the vent window are giving me fits. Could anyone post a drawing from the parts manual showing how they fit together?

If you don't know who he was, here's one from that era:

I've heard him say several times on the Opry, "and this is from my latest recording, released in 1964" (or close to that) Still did pretty good for a guy in his 90's. A while back we had the Opry on, they introduced him and he started telling a stale joke. (Probably from 1964 as well!) My wife says, "I wonder if he's still alive?" I pointed out we were listening to it live!

And it's right in my back yard! http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/cto/4828277489.html

I did see the ones on Ebay, most too high a price, or too far away (I know Tim, what does distance have to do with it? Answer - That only applies to cars!) and also found some on Craigslist. Baring any new information from you guys, I'll probably buy the first one that isn't too far, price is reasonable ($500 or so) and in reasonably good shape. There are different models, which may just have to do with year made, but there might be good features I should look for that I wouldn't think of. The better armed I am with info the less dangerous I'll be.