austinsailor

I think so, I know I've seen it. Guess when the supposed top old carburetor guy around tells me they aren't available anywhere I took him at his word. Never thought to look there. I need to put that site as my first bookmark!

Holy crap -I missed that in all the chatter! I was busy making my float. They have it, it's correct, and it's on the way. My float is done except the dope. I'll probably finish it and try it anyway. Thanks very much for the link.

You don't get nuthin' for these for a dollar - a hundred is more appropriate. And when a guy had one and wants $600 for it, this is only chump change!

Here ae size pictures, and the valve open and closed.

It is a round do donut with a hole in the middle. It attaches to nothing, it just raises against 2 ears that are attached to levers that raise the needle valve when they drop. It has to push a pretty large amount of weight to close the valve. The amount of solder needed to coat the entire outer vertical surface would result in too much weight. So - soldering isn't practical, yes it needs to be that big. The coatings mentioned by Jeff sound like just what I need. I'll give them a try.

I'm in Wally World and see it on the shelf here as well. $13.77 a gallon. I guess at least Shell figured out old cars need old version oil.

I did. He replied right away, he had none. It's 2 1/8" diameter, 1 1/2" tall. Much bigger than a bottle cork.

It's not a one off, it's just old and not available. I talked to the expert at The Carburetor Shop, he says that of 100 used carbs of this type, 3 floats will be usable. He says they've tried sealing them but nothing will stick to the brass after it's sat in gas at length. His suggestion was the cork/airplane dope method with thin sheet brass where it contacts the "elephant ears" to raise the needle valve. I can't find a big enough piece if cork here, but do have balsa, so I'll try that. I know I can make one that works, I just need to find the best way to seal it. Oh, the company who made the originals is still in business. They will produce more, $85 each, 1000 minimum. A good used one is available at $600. I don't think so.

The 24 Dodge Brothers float has cracks. Talking to The Carburetor Shop, who are experts on all things carburetor, I find that good floats for this are extremely rare. hundreds of dollars rare. I can make one out of cork or balsa, but it must be sealed. They suggest model airplane dope, which some of the antique outboard guys use. Talking to the suppliers of the dope, they are skeptical it will hold up to gas. I ordered some and will try it. My question is, has anyone dealt with this? What worked and what didn't? I'm wondering if sloshing compound, used to seal gas tanks in airplanes and such, might be a good solution? Thanks for any pointers, Gene

Not trying to revive the zinc argument, but I was just in a Midwest farm and home supply store called Orschlen's to get oil. I was actually looking for some cheap oil to put in the chain drive compartment if my skidloader, but found Rotella T on sale cheaper than the off brand stuff. More interesting, they stock Rotella T1, and it's CF, several versions before the current CJ. It's listed as for "Older turbo and non- turbo tractors and trucks". The F version will still have the full dose of zinc. I wasn't aware they made this, and they don't mention zinc as the reason, but it'll be everything we would want. They do still make version CH, which is listed as being for the old 2 cycle Detroit diesels, but I've only seen it in by the drum. This CF in gallons is a much more convenient way to go.

OK, I fixed the picture. When I was driving around, my top comfortble speed was about 35. I was holding up traffic on the narrow windy 2 lane roads here and figured I'd get some 1 finger salutes. In reality I got a number of thumbs up salutes, nobody blowing horns and lots of smiles. That was cool. Not one pissed off driver. Now I need to locate a spare wheel. I wonder how difficult that will be?

What's with these I phones putting pictures upside down?? I'll try to fix it tonight . But - all is not perfect. Later my don and went out to take a ride, started right up, got behind the wheel and it died. Didn't take long to tell there was gas streaming out of the carb. Popped the top and the float was sitting on the bottom, completely sunk. It was half full of gas. Closer inspection found many very tiny cracks in the brass. I had to look close, but they were there. Guess I need to go get all the piles of parts that came in the deal and hope there is a good one. Otherwise, I guess I'll be making one.

I've been all over the place and my "new" 24 Dodge brothers roadster just sat in the trailer. The last time I was home a couple weeks ago I got a new battery (12 volts) and siphoned the 3 or 4 year old gas out. I had tried the starter, but it has a problem. This morning I figured, what the heck, I'll give it my best shot. Drained the gas line, vacuum tank and carb to get the rest of the old stuff out, what a mess came out. Put new gas in the vacuum tank, then cranked it over about 4 times with the ignition off, hoping to sort of prime things. Set the spark, choke and throttle, using the wild ass guess method, cranked it once 1/4 turn and off it went! Drove it about 20 miles, what fun!

Got the camera, and have mixed thoughts. It works fine, has a good picture, and is lit at the end. It'll be good for a number of things, but to check the cylinder in a flathead, I think not. Just too stiff for too long at the end to make the turn. It would work fine to look into a V8, just not a flat head. It even has a little tiny mirror to look back up. (maybe good for that home done colonoscopy?!) I do think you could check the bottom of an oil pan through the oil fill, go in through the drain plug and check a lot, maybe even the lower cylinder walls. I'm sure I'll find a lot of uses for it. But - my wife saw it and told me to keep away from her with it! Now, what did she think I had in mind??

I hadn't thought of gas tanks - that would be another good use. I mess with old outboard motors and tanks can be a mess. It's hard to tell when you've finally got all the crap out - this could take a good look. Great idea! I was thinking of crank cases, other internals besides the obvious cylinder view. I should have it tomorrow. I think it'll be fun. Gene

I buy a lot of camera stuff from these guys, that's my only connection. But I just got an email offering this inspection camera: http://www.securitycamerasdirect.com/whistler-inspection-snake-camera-color-lcd-monitor-wic-5000?utm_source=General&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=081215_Gen Looks like a heck of a tool to have in my box. Pull the plug, see what is going on. I can even check the internals of a motor I'm contemplating buying. I have another Whistler dvr, a simple one, $45, that records through the windshield for about 10 hours. It works quite well, so I expect this one to as well. I'm ordering one right now and I'll report back on how it works. I wish it also had recording capabilities, but I guess you can't have everything. Anyone use one similar to this?

I had one in 1965. Sold it for $50 just before I was drafted, figured I'd never be back to get it. (Kind of like Private Malone and his Corvette in the recent song). Did return and wish I had it. Mine was a perfectly restored body, mechanically sound needing upholstry. I can tell you it had a tube front axle, the innards of the transmission weren't interchangeable with a 1940. Reflector headlights. Probably a $10k+ car today in the condition I sold it in. Oh, well. Gene

I have a 48 Chrysler with a non- working hood release. I was wondering what I was going to do about it, now I know! Thanks, Gene

southtexasantiqueelectronics.com He's done good by me. Gene

I got to see Wolfy's car earlier this week when I picked up the brake tools. I don't think he's really let you in on just what a gem he has. This thing is an original, un-repainted even, car with around 32K miles. Paint looks close to new, metal and chrome very nice, this thing is one nice survivor. The gauges and dash, including plastic, look new. Sits and runs like a sewing machine. One nice car. And brakes - yes, they are about 85 - 90% of pedel when you step on them hard. A little patching of the seams of the upholstry where the thread has given up in a few places and it would be pretty nice as well. I was quite impressed. Gene

No worry, you can wait to disassemble it when it wears out parts that whitish grease doesn't get to.

U joints and kingpins are pretty difficult to find for those. Only fit a couple years.

Basically, your question shouldn't be "What is the best", rather, it should be "can anyone find a set"! What you need is "Kingpin kit, 48-50 Dodge B1B NAPA part# 2621231 .795" dia". Newer ones are a bit bigger. These are hard to find, the NAPA source isn't making them anymore. There might be a set in the NAPA system on the shelf somewhere yet, I got one about 2 years ago, but it'll take a dedicated NAPA guy to find them if they are in existance. Make sure these are the size they are selling you. Use a micrometer if necessary.

I've got one, Picked it up at Brimson, a little north of you. You let it slip away!

Is there such a thing as a good radiator shop anymore? The ones around here that used to be good have all changed hands to kids who know nothing .