austinsailor

I have friends who have a 49 3/4 Dodge, I think that would be a B2B, and needs a new carburetor. I found them the truck a few years ago, now I'm going to try to locate a carb. I have no idea if the one on it is correct, but it would help if I knew the correct number. Most, if not all, of those old B&B carbs had a number on them, maybe 4 digits (numbers and letters) long. If I had that number it would help find the correct one. Anyone know what that might be? It might sound like a long shot, but once I located the correct # for my 36 Desoto Airflow, it didn't take long to find an NOS carb for it. I'm hoping I can do the same for their truck.

Some places that fill tanks will take them. If you are determined to burst it, it'll take several freeze/thaw cycles to do It. It'll just split, not explode. And I've had heavier containers burst from this. But, be careful. Any spark - like from that axe, could cause an explosion. They are dangerous.

I have the two Hollanders for older vehicles, I think it's 24 to 36, and 36 to 48. It says exactly what I thought, 3ed member will swap, but I'm not sure you can pull out enough info to tell if the axle splines are the same. I also can't get enough info to tell if the 3:56 gears will fit the 36 Desoto carrier, although I'm pretty sure they won't. If I recall correctly, there are two different thicknesses of gears, somewhere around 3:90. I do believe I can take the Chrysler 3ed member, put in the 3:56 gears, use the 36 Desoto gears the axle skids into and it would work. It would be nice to know befor I tear apart 2 cars As to the Airflow group, they are good guys, I do participate, but most spend all their time trying to bring them back to 1000 point cars. I doubt many, if any, have done anything like this. People in this group have done every imaginable swap or repair! Gene

I'll be going from central Mo to Lubbock, texas, then to Austin, and on to the Corpus Christi area the first of next week. I can haul up to around a 2 ton truck if it helps someone get a project where it needs to be. No charge, but it needs to roll (I have a winch) and be easily accessible. And hopefully not too far out of my way. The picture gives you some idea of what will work. Let me know if I can help.

I have a 36 Desoto Airflow, but the overdrive transmission came in buckets. It's been a near impossibility finding the parts to get it back together. The car came with a normal 3 speed installed, and with the 4:33 or so gears and noo overdrive, it isn't practical to drive many highways. I may eventually find transmission parts, but today it occurred to me that if I had taller gears, it would do just fine. I have a NOS 3:56 ring and pinion set, and a 49 Chrysler 6 cylinder fluid drive, I expect about 3:90 or so gears, and a 51 Plymouth, with who knows what gears. So, here is the question. What, of any of these choices, can I mix and match to get this airflow geared for highway driving? I'm guessing the Chrysler gears aren't as tall as I'd like, but am not sure. I doubt the 3:56 gears will bolt into the Airflow pumpkin. I think they will fit in the Chrysler, maybe in the Plymouth. If I take the Chrysler 3ed member, and either use the gears in it, or install the 3:56 gears, will it fit the Airflow? Airflows are different, in many ways, than other Mopars, so I need some ideas from someone who has been there. My parts book shows the parts interchange between the S1 (airstream) and S2 (Airflow) for 36, so if 3ed members that far back interchange with the ones in the 40's and 50s I might just get away with it. Any thoughts?

I'm sort of surprised so many focus on the difficulties, or however you'd describe them, of driving the old stock cars today. After all, isn't that part of the fun, driving something old, saved, that many can't drive or have the good sense to figure out how to keep them running well. If that's all we cared about we'd all just write a check at the dealer every couple years and buy another throw away car. After all, the people doing a marathon could much easier just catch a cab. Then they wouldn't have to worry about all the complications - shoes, heat stroke or whatever. Personally, I like driving around in something that 95 % of the people wouldn't even know how to drive. Foot starter, or crank? Set the spark? Points, what is that? Set the timing? The computer does that, doesn't it?? My only fear of driving these things is the morons on the road. Run right up on a stop sign or my bumper, never considering that the brakes might just not work correctly at the last minute, leaving them no way out, or a bit of gravel even if the brakes do work. Texting as they don't even notice you're in front of them. Or, the lady recently who had no clue what a hand signal is, who follows me and informed me I forgot to "use your blinky thing". I've never had an old one fail to get me home. Might have had to tinker a bit, but a pliers and screwdriver got me in. Try that with a throwaway car! Ok, I haven't tried a T5 yet, just to get back on topic. :<)

They make stems for those. Brass stem with a brass nut.

Simple fix. Get a ring that is too thick, find someone with a surface grinder, make it the thickness you want.

You've already got a car that half the people on this board only wish they had. You could probably get in the $10-$11k range for it, then start with a clean slate if you just don't like it. I would guess your tops for the motor would be optimistically $1000, probably less. Overdrive, $700. I'm no appraiser, and I'd welcome more opinions, but looking at a lot of stuff for sale, those are my guesses. Figure those #s (or better ones if someone chimes in) and do the math on replacements and see if it's worth it. I'm going to throw out a couple radical ideas now. 1. Tell us what you don't like about what you have and look for solutions. For example, Want an automatic? How about a fluid drive in front of a 3 speed overdrive? 2. Why not another car? Not a replacement, get a second one. It is legal. Lots of us have done it. I love driving my 1924 Dodge Brothers, but in Dallas traffic? No way. High powered T bucket can handle it, though!

I know someone is going to ask, so I'll just let it be me. Why the heck do you want to change motors?? Gene

Next time find someone with a tig welder. Have them build up the broken bolt till you have a big mass above the surface. Put a vice grip on it, turn it out. If your new "head" breaks off, just weld it up again. You get unlimited tries. The welded on knob gives you something to turn, the heat in doing it loosens it so it comes out. I've done as much as an entire manifold set before, it's always worked

I've gotten several that were stuck like that off. I assume you have the nuts off, but rust, etc. is keeping it from being pried up. Strange as it may sound, the secrets is to put the nuts back on (clean the threads real well first, might not be bad to lub them a bit) then alternate between tightening it down real tight, not enough to break the stud, but enough to hopefully squish the gasket a tiny bit. Then drive a wedge of some sort (small flat screwdriver or similar) into the gasket in an attempt to raise it up. The first few times you may not see any movement. Alternate ends next to each bolt. Tighten, loosen, drive the wedge, remove the wedge. Move back and forth, repeat until it's off. Be aware that the stud may be weak from corrosion down in the hole, so don't over tighten. Heat and the penetrants mentioned might help. They will come off, but you might be an hour or two at this before getting there. Don't give up quickly if at first you notice no movement, it can be too little to see for a while, but I've never had it fail. Gene

Does this u joint also fit the 48? I have one new one installed, but the other is not shot but would be better if it was new as well.

Do it like they did it in the 20's and 30's. Blow pure oxygen in the cylinder, light. Must have been exciting!

I'll have to tell you, approaching 70, looking at all the people in my life (including many no longer here)my observation is, if you're going to worry about what will make a difference, the biggest difference you can make is by taking only clean fresh air in your lungs. No dust, no smoke, nothing else. I can look around today at my contemporaries and usually tell who has and who hasn't. Just my observation.

Drove up to Backwoods, Pennsylvania today to see George Asche. He had a couple transmissions of mine which he's unable to fix, no parts available. It was a good excuse to run up there. What a nice family. Met him and his sons and got an extended tour. If you're in the area you should stop and visit, he seems to enjoy the company, and it's an enteresting tour. Didn't realize until I was gone that I really didn't get a picture of him, just this one of his coupe with him in the background looking for something in the basement.

In the last couple years I had 3 motors stuck like yours. All 3 had only one cylinder with a problem, rust. 2 would never come free, it took destroying the piston, drilling and breaking it up, to get it out. Then a new sleeve to fix it. The 3ed came free, but I pulled the head and it was rusted bad enough it would have self destructed in no time. It's still sitting there. I'd strongly recommend you pull the head and have a look. What's a head gasket - $20 - $30? Gene

Looks to me that the input is connected directly to the output. No radiator.

He's done several for me. Knows what he's doing. He's been a radio nerd all his life, retired and does this full time now.

or $175 restored: http://southtexasantiqueelectronics.com/inventory.html

Tim, how does this compare with something like the Purple power you get at NAPA? I assume quite a bit better.Can you actually spray it on a greasy motor and expect much to desolve? I'll probably order a gallon and try it, it's not that expensive.

They make kits that have various adapters that fit anything. Just pull the parts out of the bag. slip on the correct one on the shaft for the pilot, correct size for the clutch, you're ready. Repeat for the next job. One tool fits all. Found on EBay, etc. not that pricy.

That's a nice lookng car. The wide whites really set it off. When I was a kid I don't recall many cars having white wall tires, but if they did they were wide. Even though few did, it sure sets the tone for that era. It's kind of like convertables - there weren't many back then. but that's what many of us want to represent that era. I'm sure they'll be a hit, even if it's next spring when you get to show them off. Gene

the rods are more offset in the 23". They tend to get bent a bit over time. This from an older guy who spend much of his time in a machine shop straightening rods from 23" motors on rebuild.

Actually, you're into the "bigger problem" area. You've actually adjusted the bearings in the other shaft, but I'm glad it worked. Keep the seal good, keep oil that flows in it, and it should be good longer than you are!