TodFitch

Give him a few minutes to carry it out to the garage.

Too late to change? It is July 4th, so maybe something with that theme. If too late to change, then I guess anything that resembles a steam locomotive including a toy would be okay.

Do I get to set the next challenge? How about with a steam engine. . .

I've edited you topic and post to indicate you are looking for a supplier. Any direct requests for buying (or selling) an item must be in the classifieds, and I suggest you place an ad there. I will leave this thread open for others to suggest merchants that might have the parts you need.

Can't say for sure on your truck but many/most of the bolts holding the fenders of my old Mopar are UNC 1/4-20 though some might be UNC 5/16-18. Main reason for my reply here though is to point out "Imperial" is probably not a good term for the fasteners. There are/were a number of standards based on the inch system and the threads for them are not all interchangeable. At least not interchangeable if you are worried about having the fasteners perform their best. In the US the standards set by the S.A.E. which lead to the Unified Thread Standard predominate while in the U.K. I understand that other standards, like Whitworth, were often used.

I did not suggest using all thread. . . I suggested using a bolt for the stock to start with. Threaded section picked appropriately. I don't see how you could put a good fine thread end on a course threaded piece all-thread anyway. I didn't even use all-thread when making the shock link rods for the lever action shocks on my Plymouth: 3/8" steel rods, cut to length and then each end threaded as needed.

Threads into the block are course thread. If your local auto supply does not have suitable studs, try a good hardware store. If you can't find them locally and don't want to wait for a shipment from a mail order place you can make studs from long bolts with not much more than a hacksaw and an appropriate die. Manifold studs are not under a lot of force, just heat, so strength is not a big issue.

Off topic but this reminds me of my experience in Maryland in 1974. . . Turns out that at that time (maybe still now?) when you brought a car into Maryland they wanted to charge you sales tax on it regardless of how long you owned it or if you paid tax in some other state when you bought it. In my case, when I bought the '33 in New York state the fellow gave me two bills of sale: One for me with the real amount and one for $50 to give to the DMV because he knew they'd want to charge me tax. Being the honest, young fellow that I was I used the bill of sale with the actual amount when I transferred it and registered it at the NY DMV. A bit over a year later, graduated from college and on to my first job in Maryland, I was not inclined to pay tax again so the $50 copy of the bill of sale magically appeared at the Maryland DMV. No such BS when I moved to California. Other BS yes, but not that bit about paying sales tax on a car you've owned for over a year.

More clear than a link that directly goes to disposable gloves?

Anything that looks loose or wrong. Maybe a broken piece of lining, etc. A quick check of the universals is the easiest: Without a load on them (parking brake holding the car from moving on even a slight slope would be a load) see if there is any rotational play that you can feel. There should be none.

Year & Model? Assuming it is the P6 you have listed in your profile, and assuming I am looking at the parts book correctly, it is a pretty easy repair assuming you have or can get the parts. Oddly, I don't see the procedure in the factory service manual, but all you have to do is use a very large screw driver blade (I use the one of the ones that came in my hand impact driver set) to unthread the plug. Behind that is a spring and a "drag link seat" which you remove. Then you can remove the drag link ball and fish out the "drag link bearing" (the ball seat inside the bowls of the drag link. The seat, ball and bearing are all wear parts which means those are the ones you need to replace. Replace in the same order you removed things. I screwed the plug in on mine until the spring was totally compressed and then backed off just a little. Not sure if that is correct but it seems to work for me.

Check your universal joints. . . Might not be a bad idea to inspect the rear brakes for anything out of order too.

Don't they have a Harbor Freight in your area? Didn't see the product as available at Harbor Freight. They may carry something else. Lots to coat underneath, will need another bottle. They don't have disposable gloves at your Harbor Freight? (My comment and link was in response to your comment about washing hands after using one of these rust converter products.)

Don't they have a Harbor Freight in your area?

I notice the fine print at the bottom of the NADA price print out: So the collector car insurance company, dealing with people owning "trailer queens" probably do see valuations quite a bit higher.

Well, if that photo posted by rb1949 is correct, it looks like the whole shaft comes out somehow, so I'd be a little cautious on trying a little harder.

On my '33 the light switch knob simply threads onto the shaft coming out of the switch. But, of course, light switches are something they changed every year so it could be they came up with some other scheme by '35.

That number is not in the '36-'48 Plymouth parts book. Offers for sale need to be in the classifieds.

Been a while since I sold my '91 Cherokee with the inline 6 but I recall measuring the length of it once and found it was longer than the 25" Chrysler/DeSoto/Canadian blocks. Might be wrong on that but I am sure it is longer than the 23" Plymouth and US Dodge blocks.

I believe that all the versions of that film on the web are copied from the Prelinger archives at the Internet Archive site. There are a bunch of Jam Handy films there originally produced for Chevrolet that are interesting. Another one I like explains the front suspension pretty well.

You should post a want ad in the classified section for a "assist strap". For responders to this thread, suggestions for potential vendors are okay. Offers for sale of item(s) will be immediately deleted.

Ahhh. But I can walk to my nearest O’Reilly Auto Parts (or AutoZone which I don’t like as much) but I'd have to order from Rock Auto and then wait for them to be delivered. And I am into immediate gratification. I am also into looking at the parts on the counter and deciding if they are really correct before paying.

They are standard Dorman products that should be available at nearly any auto supply. See http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18#18-CS And apparently, O'Reilly knows about them: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/550023.oap?ck=Search_550-023_-1_-1&keyword=550-023

The overall shape and mounting stud hole and ears for attaching to the manifold nut are, I think, pretty much the same for all of them. Difference(s) are where there are holes to provide clearance for protrusions on the fuel pump. I was able to use the overall shape given in that template and then add a hole for the pressure dome that sticks up from my early model AC fuel pump.

Perhaps you have a car oil pan on your truck. . .