TodFitch

I agree with Young Ed. Buy a new pump and be done with it. Here is the part number.NWP-713 Except that the person asking said they are in Holland. Might not have a CarQuest or NAPA store there. I don't know how the later pumps are, but in '33/'34 the pulley and hub are one and the same. The pulley/hub is pressed on to the end of the pump shaft and then a hole is drilled through the flange on the pulley and the shaft and a pin is pressed in then peened over. As was mentioned early in this thread, a photo of the pump you are working with could be useful. It could be that you've gotten an incorrect pump off of eBay.

Not all vacuum wiper motors have leather on the oscillating paddle. At least one I took apart had some sort of man-made material. I'd stick with a lightweight machine oil.

I've used Joe at Sierra Specialty Automotive (www.brakecylinder.com) too and have been really impressed with the work he does. As you wrote, you'll want to frame them and hang them on the wall as pieces of art. Any good brake parts jobber should be able to match up the internal parts to currently available parts. The only issue might be the wheel cylinder dust boots. At least those from the early '30s are only available from specialty suppliers. If you have the later ones with a round hole for a rod rather than the early style with a rectangular hole for the shoe end you'll probably be able to get those at your jobber.

I find electrical stuff, at least common automotive and household electrical, pretty easy. Its plumbing I hate. The pipes seem always to be in cramped areas, the connections frozen, and the contained liquid always spills somewhere. And it always seems to leak someplace at least the first time when you think you have it fixed.

I've had my stock '33 PD up to 70 MPH. That's with the original 70 HP 190 cu.in. engine with the original 4.375:1 rear end and narrow 17" tires. Speed verified by GPS. Ran out of the level stretch of road at that point but I don't think it would have done much more. Mine is a two door sedan, a coupe with a bit less weight and better aerodynamics would probably do more. As would a '33 with the 4.11:1 rear end used on the PC. However you aren't asking what a '33 Plymouth will do. You are asking what your one off custom drivetrain will do. A question I can't answer. I will say that if you are trying to go much faster than 60 MPH you will want to swap out the original brakes and do some other suspension modifications. Certainly the passenger I had when I did the 70MPH got awfully quite and seemed a bit concerned as the speed went up. Definitely will need suspension and brake improvements for that type of speed.

Can't say about about your '48 D25, but I've pulled the flywheel from my '33 PD with the engine in the car.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=30314

Can't say they did not change over the years and '54 is quite a bit later than '33, but when I first opened up my engine the pistons had CPDP stamped on them and they were standard size. So I took them to be original.

I'm no expert but I was under the impression that "pot metal" is die cast. So there would be metal dies that would be used in the casting. That would make it pretty expensive for small run manufacturing as the dies would be specific to the part being made and the casting equipment it is used in.

Prior to the days of mechanical fuel pumps (1930 for Plymouth an many other cars) fuel was delivered from the tank to the carburetor either by gravity (Ford Model T and Model A for example) or by a vacuum powered "pump". Most cars used manifold vacuum for the vacuum source but Plymouth (and maybe other Chrysler products) used suction from the input of the oil pump. Regardless of the source of vacuum the fuel pump worked the same way: The tank has an upper and lower chamber and a float. When the upper chamber is empty the float opened a valve that allowed vacuum to pull gas from the tank to the upper chamber. When the upper chamber was full, the float then changed the valves to dump the gas into the lower chamber. The carburetor was fed by gravity from the lower chamber. Because of the gravity flow of the fuel from the vacuum tank to the carburetor, this type of setup can only really be used on vehicles with updraft carburetors.

How dare you get the thread back on topic! > Glad to hear the problem is fixed.

+1 to that. The oil pump should put out sufficient volume for the worst conditions which is too much for most of the time, so the pressure relief valve dumps the excess back into the pan. If it has been sitting a long time, maybe the plunger on the relief valve has gotten stuck.

Just came across http://sugru.com/us/about today. Looks like it might be useful for repairing and/or fabricating some old car stuff. Has anyone heard of it? Does it work as advertised?

Could you please explain what that means for us dumb left coast suburban types?

Maybe that is why he is looking for more original information. I've put up a similar "calculator" for the passenger car side and there is a lot of transcription work that needed to be done. So there is ample opportunity to make mistakes. I took a look at the little information I have on trucks and decided that it would be a lot harder to make up a truck decoder than a car decoder, so what he has done is pretty impressive even if it has some errors. I'll bet if you contact him off line with your serial number and what the error was, he'd be happy to improve the results.

Looks like it is in Reg Evan's general neighborhood...

Shouldn't that be "To and too are fore" ? I think I know where that one came from. In Old English "hē" basically the same as our modern "he". But the female equivalent was "hēo" (/heːo/) which works into "hers". From Wikipedia: The Scandinavian word that turned into "she" was adopted and replaced "hēo" when a lot of England was under Danelaw. English is a wonderful language once you get the hung of it.

Not sure but my wooden whistle wouldn't whistle.

So by Robin Williams standards, you were there.

Welcome aboard. I would be really surprised if your thread gets deleted here. Unfortunately that vehicle is one that I know nothing about so I can't help you in your quest for information. I will, however, be interested in following along to learn more about those old mail delivery vehicles.

Iron filings designed to rust if moisture or oxygen is present... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-15987343

I still have the first car that I owned: My '33 Plymouth purchased in the summer of 1973.

From the introductory paragraph in A Pictorial History of Chrysler Corporation Cars published by Chyrsler in 1975: So the 1924 six cylinder engine had a seven bearing crank. Apparently a vibration damper was added in 1925 and rubber engine mounts in 1926. The book also mentions that Chryslers finished third and fourth at the 1928 Le Mans race.

I've read that the original 1924 Chrysler 6 had a 7 bearing crank. But I don't know much about it.

True for the following too. Turns out you can get car performance apps for smart phones. At least you can for Android based ones and I expect you can for iPhones, etc. Turns out that the GPS in my Nexus One has a bit of trouble keeping locked when mounted on the suction mount on the windshield of my '33. I'm guessing RFI off of the unshielded ignition system. Not normally a problem for navigation as things average out. But it does mean getting consistent results from acceleration tests is iffy. But having an app that you tell to start which then waits for you to start moving to start its timer and then tracks you and records time to distances and times to speeds is a lot easier to deal with than an handheld dedicated GPS unit. Another issue for me: There aren't very many roads around here that are flat, straight, posted for at least 50 MPH that aren't very crowded. So finding a time and place for testing takes some effort. And I've never really been into racing, so I'm probably not the best driver to do the testing. Anyway, with all those caveats, here are the results I got a year ago from my stock '33 Plymouth with about 25,000 miles on the rebuild of its 190 cu.in. engine.