TodFitch

Getting a little out of had with personal attacks. . . So the thread is being locked.

Hmmm. I'd stick with multi-viscosity detergent oil to be on the safe side. I guess there are different opinions about what the safe side is.

It appears that Calspan is unrelated to Bell Aerospace: http://www.calspan.com/our-company

Can't say for '49 for sure, but oil filters were optional on some models for some years. Seems like it was a cost cutting measure as oil filters were standard on all models in the early 1930s. Only became an optional thing later.

I haven't found a modern CV joint boot that has the correct dimensions. I think Roberts (and maybe others) carry rubber boots but my experience is that it is old rubber and if it does not fail and tear during assemble it will fail shortly thereafter. I am using leather boots on my driveshaft because of that.

I used copper-nickel alloy tubing for both my brake lines and for the fuel line from the tank to the engine compartment. Not the same brand as you linked to. I got mine at a brake supply company back in the '90s. Been on the car for at least 15 years now with no signs of problems. But given the fuel additives they keep changing around I guess there is no guarantee that it will be impervious to all gasoline mixes.

Last fuel pump I looked at in detail had a two piece/double spring arrangement. Looked like it was setup for the arm to always ride the cam but the diaphragm only was pulled down as needed to suck more gas into the pump. Net result is that during times of low fuel usage the diaphragm does not move as much as during times of high fuel usage.

I think the washer you are looking for is listed as "Brake Flexible Hose Gasket" with a parts type code 5-62-07. For '39 through '48 the part number is 1123332. Maybe your '52 uses the same number. Unfortunately, I can't tell you a modern cross reference for that number. Hopefully Rich can find it in his Wagner book. If he does, I'd like to add it to my database. If you were looking for the one used in '33 and '34 I could have helped you with a modern cross.

Did you adjust or check the length of the master cylinder actuating rod? If too long it will block the relief port in the master cylinder which will lock up the brakes. If your one cylinder is adjusted tighter than the rest it might lock up first.

Been back on forth on this myself. I have DOT5 in my '33 and have had it there since the '90s when I was putting things back together. And I haven't had any particular issues with it. But if I were to do it again, or if I ever have to redo the whole system in the future, I'd probaby go with DOT3/DOT4 and make a practice of flushing the system every few years. Garden and plumbing sections of my friendly local hardware store had everything I needed to make a presure bleeder for less than $20. So the cost of that is minor.

Maybe that dielectric grease that is used on light bulb sockets on cars. . . It is my understanding that the "dielectric" part of the name means that the grease itself does not conduct electricity so it won't short out the switch. But, apparently, it flows enough that the contacts can push it aside and make a good connection.

Congratulations! Now, I suppose, you might be asking about where to get a new plunger. . .

I was wondering about on the trip servicing. . . I've setup a service chart based on all the myriad items listed in my "operators manual" (owners manual was a later thing) and basically 2,000 miles is a pretty major service interval that includes things like tire rotation, oil change, lubricating the suspension, etc. A lot easier if you have access to something other than a hotel parking lot.

Looks to me like the original engine number was ground off and this new number stamped in. See how the raised area around the freeze/core/welch plug just below the engine number boss has been hit with a grinder? I'm guessing it is a rebuilder's number but which rebuilder I couldn't say.

I've never had this symptom so I can't say from personal experience but I've heard that a bad hose that has swollen shut can cause this. The master cylinder has enough pressure to force fluid through but the return springs on the brake shoes aren't strong enough to push the fluid back.

Sounds like you have DOT3 in there now. Did you read the article at the link Plymouthy Adams posted? Whatever the merits of one type of fluid over the other, the actual process of changing from one type to the other is an issue. Comes down to two major things: 1. They are two different densities, the DOT5 will float on top of the DOT3 in the wheel cylinders. Because the bottom of the cylinders is below the bleeder you will never get out all the old DOT3 by simply filling and bleeding with DOT5. 2. Use of a alchol or petroleum based fluid to the "flush" the old fluid out will damage the rubber componets. Basically what it comes down to is you decide what fluid you are going to use when you do a full replacement of all hydraulic components in the brake system including all the tubing and hoses after that you keep using what you started with.

If the grade is too steep for engine compression to keep you going slow enough in direct, then downshift to 2nd. Standard operating procedure in cars for eons. In my '33 the grade has to be really, really steep before I need 2nd to keep my speed in line. Most of the "braking" is simply taking my foot off the accelerator. In fact, lack of engine braking was one reason my Dad didn't get a car with an automatic transmission until after the turn of the millennium: His experience with cars from the motor pool that had automatic transmissions way back when (1950s, early '60s) convinced him that they weren't safe on mountain roads as they had very little compression braking from the engine. The wide spread adoption of fade resistant disc brakes did not change is mind about the need for engine braking.

Interesting. California enacted a "move over" law in the last couple of years. I wonder if various states compare notes about new traffic laws. Seems like laws on things like "move over" or cellphone/texting seem to get enacted by many states around the same time. If I recall correctly, moving over for any vehicle or person on the side of the highway (if safe to do so) was recommended way back when I had driver's education and driver's training in high school. And it is something I've made a point of doing for all the decades since then. Seems a bit odd that they now feel it requires a law. But I guess it just goes to show that "common sense" is very uncommon.

Boeing has a pretty interesting factory tour in Everett. And the Spruce Goose is in a museum not too far from Portland.

Private enterprise, so it costs a little, but the drive through tree near Leggett is worth doing at least once. http://www.drivethrutree.com That is just a little south of the Avenue of the Giants which I agree is a worthwhile drive.

Averaging 400 miles per day. . . You guys aren't taking much time to slow down and smell the roses are you? Sounds like you'll be in the SF Bay Area around Tuesday at that rate. . . OTOH, if you are willing to slow down a bit, US-101 down the Oregon coast is every bit as pretty as California 1 down Big Sur. I-5, other than a few nice views of Mt. Shasta, is quite boring compared to the drive down the coast.

Does it look like something the tools made by Eric over on the truck side would work for you: http://p15-d24.com/topic/24720-dash-cableswitch-knob-tool-ignition-switch-tool-and-more/?hl=%2Bdash+%2Bknob+%2Btool

http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#3-F

Someday, maybe, I'll drive my old Plymouth up Mt. Evans just to see if it can do it. Been up there a couple of times in "modern" cars. Modern in quotes because the first time was when I was a child and that car, if it still exists, would be 50 years old.

Probably yes. As I understand it, you want to trickle charge a totally dead battery until the charge comes up a little. Then you can bulk charge it at a high current. Then you want to decrease the charge rate as it gets near full. And finally, if you leave a charger on it, you need just enough to keep the float voltage. By putting some resistance in the line between the battery charger and the battery, you are basically converting it to a lower amperage charger for that first step.