Daliant.

I usually go to the Monday cruise in Lockport, rarely go to the one in olcott. I'll keep an eye out for ya.

Here's another shot of the driver side manifold:

I haven't alligned the front end yet, just a quicky eyeball job. One problem I did run into was that there wasn't enough adjustment on the driver side tie rod, I had to cut about a 1/2" of thread off each tie rod end to have enough adjustment. No problems on the passenger side.

There's plenty of room between the manifold and the firewall on both sides, the driver side does however point directly at the clutch linkage but there is enough room to curve the pipe around it. Both manifolds have the exits pointing down and back at about a 45* angle which kinda follows the lower part of the firewall. There are no air injection ports on them like late 70s-late 80s manifolds so they will work on any LA or magnum V8. I dont think I'll need any heat shields.

More pics: Well seasoned 318 slathered in some custom mixed rustoleum Chyrsler blue (just royal blue with a little white mixed in) Steering box moved over 1 inch for more manifold clearance, can barely tell unless you know what your looking at. Yes it involves cutting and welding the frame, sorry didn't take any "work in progress" pictures plenty of room under the manifold Not so much room on the radiator support Plenty of room on the passenger side Those are 2000 Dodge Darango/Dakota ehxaust manifolds, relatively cheap (about 75 bucks each) and available at any major parts store.

So after the novelty of the first legal drive around the block wore off I quickly discovered that the warmer the engine got the lower the oil pressure got along with a faint rattle from deep within the block. I was hoping to keep the original engine for a little while but the more I drove it rattle got louder and louder. I dumped about 2 quarts of 90w gear oil in the engine to sneak a few more miles out of it, the oil pressure came up about 20 psi and it quieted the rattle but the old flatty was on borrowed time. After two weeks the temperary inspection expired so off the road it came and the tear down began. I really just wanted to get the paperwork in my name before investing a bunch of money and boat load of time into this car, the car wasn't really fit for the road but it stopped good and steered straight so I felt it was safe enough to drive. Heres some more pics: Floor was shot Rockers were shot Not much holding the fender on Original flatty

Well it's time I start a thread for my project so here it is: I bought the car in June 2011 from a guy who started to fix her up but I think he was in a little over his head. The car ran, moved under its own power and stopped (sort of) but it was far from being road worthy, the car was last registered in 1967 so sitting for 44 yrs took its toll. Mice had eaten almost every wire under the dash, above the headliner and in the trunk so none of the lights worked. Almost every wheel cylinder leaked and the master cyl was plugged up with rust so a disk brake swap along with a dual circuit master cyl was the first order of business. After getting the brakes to work the next job was a total rewire from front to back. So now I have brakes, lights, charging, horn, turn signals, etc.. ready for the road! I go to the DMV expecting a major fiasco because the paper work for the car was almost a half century old faded piece of paper a little bigger than a business card with the info hand written insted of typed, the clerks at the DMV deal with newer car titles 99.9 percent of the time so I was expecting a problem. Much to my amazement I walked out of the DMV after about 15 minutes with a set of plates and a registation with my name on it:D. It felt good driving a 65 year old car that hadn't been on the road for past 44 yrs, it gave me a sence of accomplishment. Enough chat here's some pics: As purchased: Ratty (and mouse eaten) custom interior: Cool old decal from the 60's At its first car show

I feel your pain, I just finished making motor mounts on my 46 w/318 swap. Do a mock up engine install with everything attached (distributor, water pump, pulleys, exhaust manifolds, etc..) so you dont put the engine where something isn't going to fit. Check, dubble check and then re check everything before you fully weld the mounts in so you dont have to cut them out because of lack of clearance somewhere.

It depends on your turn signal switch, if you have a 7 wire switch your good to go, if you have a 3 wire switch its a little harder. My car had a 3 wire turn signal switch so what I did was drill an extra hole behind the tail light for a seperate light fixture which I used for the turn signal light, I then used the stock dual filament bulb fixture for the tail and brake lights. There is not a lot of room inside the tail light lens so keep that in mind when your drilling the hole, also I had to weld the bulb holder into the car because there wasn't enough room inside the lens for the bulb. My car is 12v but the voltage doesn't matter, the only difference will be the flasher and bulbs. With a 7 wire switch you wont need the extra bulb in the tail light because the turn signal switch interupts the brake light when the turn signal is on.

I was using electronic ignition on my flatty with a modified slant 6 distributor and stock 70's Chrysler ignition box and was very happy with it: quicker starts, no low speed miss and better perfomance. The flatty is coming out though in favor of V8 power (318) also with the same stock Chrysler electronic ignition.

The three different versions are: 1957-66 poly head "A" engine 1967-93 "LA" engine 1994-2002 "magnum" engine No difference between a Dodge, Ply. or Chyrysler engine in the "LA" and "Magnum" series engines, there were differences in the late 50's "A" series engines between Dodges and Plymouths.

1937

67 plymouth barracuda notch back

Thats definately a reverse rotation engine judging by the hand crank snout on the flywheel.

That GM distributor sticks out like a sore thumb, but it works and its a self contained unit: just plug in keyed 12v and go. Putting a slant six distributor on a flathead isnt that difficult, there is a very detailed thread on it. I had a slant six distributor on my flatty and I can tell you the difference was like night and day: much quicker starts, idled smoother, had more power off idle, didnt matter if it was damp or raining it would start right up (it wouldn't do that with the points distributor). One drawback to using the chrysler based electronic ignition is the seperate ignition box, ballast resistor and the extra wiring associated with it. Using a GM ignition module with the slant 6 distributor will eliminate the ballast resistor and be a little easier to hide, plus they are cheaper than the chrysler box/ballast resistor Heres my setup:

Some of those braided brake lines swell a little under pressure, now times that by about 30 feet of line and the pedal might feel a little squishy. I would check with the manufacturer to see how much they swell before buying. Also braided lines need more support than steel lines so dont forget about some kind of mounting tabs to attach the lines the frame. I think it would be easier and cheaper to just run steel hard lines in my opinion.

Torqueflites still explode violently from time to time:

Most V8's have a exhaust passage that runs through the intake manifold under the carburator to heat the air/fuel mix. Some performance manifolds dont have this feature and they dont do to good in the cold. They tend to foul plugs with alot of unburnt fuel.

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The problem with putting headers on any carburated inline engine is the loss of heat to the intake manifold, the intake has to be hot for the fuel droplets to atomize properly and burn completely. Running a hot water plate bolted under the intake will help some and will probably be fine if the car is just a summer driver.

They both share the same ground wire on the core support so I would check that first.

You could take all the pins out of the lock tumbler which would allow you to use any key you want or a screwdriver or anything else that will fit in the key hole. On the outside the glove box lock will still look stock, still function and no one will be able to tell the difference.

Sweet!!

The old cast iron master cyls always seem to get rusty around the rim where the cover seal is and the fluid leaks out as it sloshes around in the resevoirs. Personally I like the aluminum master cyls just because they dont leak around the caps. Both styles do the same thing though, its just a matter of which bore size to use. I have a 1 1/16 bore aluminum master from an 80's Dodge pickup in my 46 coupe w/disk front brakes (Chevy calipers) and it stops fine, the pedal has about the same feel as the original drums w/stock master cyl. If you buy an aluminum master cyl from a part store just make sure the resevoir is included, sometimes they sell the resevoir seperately.

Marine flatheads use a gear driven, gear style pump (like a small block chevy oil pump) driven off of the gear cluster between the engine and gearbox, and a block off plate where the automotive water pump would normally mount. There wouldn't be a practical way to use this set up in a car but if you could you would defiately have people scratching thier heads. Another option (just a thought) might be to swap the impeller of your stock water pump with one from a newer car that uses a serpentine belt set up, maybe an impeller from magnum 318 might work? The pump might not move as much water or might not even work at all since it was designed to only be spun in one direction. Another option would be to leave the stock pulleys alone and drive the supercharger by itself if you have the room, this would probably be the easiest way to go depending on available space.