Daliant.

I would imagine it has to do with the quantity and placement of electro magnets vs the strength of the magnets.

Don't give up just yet, the biggest hurdle on any v8 swap on these cars is the fact that the driver side exhaust manifold will want to occupy the same space as the the steering box. Otherwise there is actually plenty of room to put a v8 in one of these cars, you just have to offset the engine to the passenger side and the higher you mount the engine the less clearance problems you will have.

I've got disks on the front of my plymouth and I don't have residual valves or a proportioning valve and the car stops just fine, my master cyl came off of an 80's diplomat, 1 1/32" bore if I remember correctly. From my understanding residual valves are only needed if the master cyl is lower than the wheel cyls or calipers.

I believe those fit '96-'03 Dodge Dakotas/Darangos and also Jeep Grand Cherokee with 5.2 and 5.9 engines. The two reasons I went with those was the cost and availability of them, you can get them at any parts store for less than 100 bucks a piece, I believe I paid about $160 for both and one was in stock the other came in the next day. Second reason was that there are no smog holes under each port in them like some earlier manifolds. The motor was offset to the passenger side and the steering box was moved deeper into the frame for extra clearance on the column.

My vote goes to the LA 360 or even the magnum 5.9, there's plenty of 'em around reasonably priced and they meet your HP goal pretty much in bone stock form. It's not that hard swapping in a small block chrysler into one of these cars plus it's been done plenty of times before. Those modern little 4 bangers and V6's can be made to put out some impressive HP numbers but adapting the EFI stuff away from the parent vehicle opens up a can of worms in itself.

I have a Hurst competition plus shifter on one of my OD833's and the stock hurst shifter on another OD833, there's nothing special about either one.

I'd say either the engagement teeth on the 2nd speed gear are worn or the syncronizer is sloppy, plan on cracking the tranny open

I might be interested if the price is right. Both look look like truck/van units, the volare/aspen/dart transmissions only had one mount for the shifter.

Looks like Don beat me to it, with pictures too.

The latch plate stays but the horn bracket and horns need to be removed. The core support needs to be unbolted and flipped around or the cross-bar for the horn bracket needs to be cut off and reattached to the other side by grinding the rivets off and re riveting or bolting.

If your maxed out at 55 mph I don't think overdrive is going to help, I'd say the engine is tired or needs a good tune up. Do a compression test to see if the rings are in good shape, a leak down test would be better though this will let you know if the valves are sealing. You should be able to hit 70 with the stock engine/trans/rear combo.

The rear end from the polara should be just right width wise, it's a little wider than the stocker by about 3/4" on each side, you'll probably have to weld new perches on or move the ones that are on it. As far as the engine swap is concerned it's all a matter of how much of the stock stuff you want to keep, the steering box will be the biggest obstacle it will want to occupy the same space as the driver side exhaust manifold, swapping to a rack and pinion will free up a lot of space in that area. On a big block engine the oil filter will want to be in the same space as the crossmember. Next will be the radiator and firewall, you can only move the radiator so far forward so the firewall will probably need to be massaged a little. there should be plenty of room in the tunnel as long as you don't mount the engine too high or too far back. None of these would be considered deal breakers in my opinion but it's going to take some fab work to put a big block in one of these cars. Disk brakes should be pretty high on the to do list if you go through with the swap.

Make sure the mechanicals are up to snuff before addressing the cosmetics. I've seen plenty of nicely "cosmetically" restored cars that can barely make it around the block without overheating or burning/leaking a quart of oil every 500 miles or having electrical gremlins that leave 'em stranded. Doing repairs on a car with nice paint sucks, no matter how careful you are nicks and scratches are bound to happen. Save the paint and interior for last.

Highs in the upper 70's, lows in the mid 50's

Looking good! I like it. What kind of paint did you use?

Do you have the cooler lines hooked up? They can't just be plugged off. Also the fluid needs to be checked in neutral.

The horns will be fine on 12v, you just need to change the relay.

The extra button above the clutch pedal is probably for the blackout lights on the fenders.

You have to grind the pins for the star wheel and the dovetail to get it apart and then weld the ends of the pins back to the end plate to put it back together, it wasn't designed to be serviceable. Make sure the star wheel spins nice and smooth on it's pin, when I fixed the latch on my '46 the star wheel was so beat up from the door being slammed on it that it would barely turn, I had to re drill the hole to make it round again.

Grind the staked part off to get the pin out, then when the striker is repaired weld the end of the pin to the housing.

Ahh Beattie ave, I'm on the other part of town down by the canal.

What part of town are you from?

There's plenty of street rods out there with GM power, it almost seems mandatory to have a small block chevy under the hood and lately it looks like the LS motor is trying to steal the ol' small blocks sunshine. I don't think having an LS motor under the hood is going to hurt the value at all.

I'd start by lubing the star wheel and anything else that moves in the latch mechanism, the wheel looks a little worn but it should still work as long as everything moves freely. Make sure the wheel still moves smoothly and catches the three fingers every turn, lube the crap out of it. How does the catch plate on the pillar look? Is the little spring loaded tab still in place? The catch plate needs to be in good shape for the star wheel to hold the door closed right.

The first one looks like a early dodge poly engine probably a 241 or 270 The second two are a big block in front and a late 70's small block behind, probably a 318 The hemi must be a desoto unless the rust is hiding the script on the valve covers, both dodge and chrysler had the names stamped into their valve covers, the desoto had the name stamped into the plug wire covers.