Scruffy49

Those look great. Funny to see corrugated sign plastic mentioned, I've got a bunch of that stuff, going to use it for door panel and kick panel backing, maybe the new firewall cover as well. Only thing I plan to do different on mine is edge trim them with marine grade or arctic grade vinyl. Just drill stitching holes in your backer board and hand stitch the edging on. Anyone make a spray glue to bond 1/32" thick mahogany to the sign plastic? Mine is getting a "Chris Craft cabincruiser" headliner...

If you want to run modern safety latches instead. Inside and outside handle kits, new rods, bearclaw latches, install kits, etc. Kinda pricey but if your stock stuff is beyond shot or you are doing a custom build anyway... If you add a V8 and run the old style latches frame flex can pop the door open...

Mine fired on oil from 1974... Battery from late 1960s... Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders, fresh gas from a one gallon can strapped on the hood center... dropped it in 3rd at 35 mph behind an old Ford. First time she'd started in over 20 years. Ran like crap. Flames pouring out from under the cab (completely rotten stock headpipe and muffler shell), no brakes (at all), dry rotted tires from the 60s, grease from who knows when... Funny thing is, I still have those tires, on the stock wheels, sitting in the cab right now. And the things still hold air...

My uncle was a stoner in high school... And somwhere in the kickpanels is a bag with a dismanteld switchblade...

Nice finds. When I cleaned out mine I found part of the original driver's manual, a couple small cologne bottles, a pair of penny loafers, a copper tubing and antler bowled bong and about 15 pounds of hazelnut shells. Squirrels had lived in it for 20 years while it was in my grandparents' barn in Puyallup Washington. Oh, I also found a Playboy party joke book from 1968 under the seat.

Just FYI, Sweptline front brakes are getting harder to come by every day. I replaced both drums on my 69 D-100 in March, took 2 days to get one of them, two weeks for the other to show up. The drum and hub are factory locked together on Swepts via the lug studs. Rear drum will fit on the front hub but you will need to use the correct shoes for your rear drum. Autozone has the best price for rear drums and shoes. If you like alloy wheels have the shop thatr cuts your swedges off install longer than stock replacement studs, factory ones are rather short. Early ones had reversed thread on the driver side. Your stock wheels will work fine with Sweptline drum and hub. I use a 49 wheel as a temp spare for my 69. And vice-versa, my Pilot House runs Dodge "Lifestyle Era" wheels, pre-84 1/2 ton truck. Mine are off a 78 Ramcharger pop-top 4x4. Join Sweptline.org's forum, for the swap pages if nothing else. Site owner and several other members have Sweptline graveyards. One member sells Pilot House brake and powertrain parts.

Looks more like a jet wrench. You know, the little brass dots with a hole in them in your carb. A regular screwdriver can actually destroy a jet pretty quickly. All it takes is a slip of the wrong size screwdriver and you have in effect jetted down, leaning out your fuel mix.

The factory 318/727 in my 69 D100 is a nightmare to start, the fuel pump lets gas bleed back to the tank within a few minutes of shut down. Common problem with generic parts store replacement mechanical fuel pumps. You have to make sure the carb is correct if you have the in manifold mechanical choke. Some are pushers, some are pullers, same with the choke mechanism on the side of the carb. My 69 had a 2bbl carb/choke off a 383 when I bought the truck, had to replace the carb, ended up with one for a 74 318/stick. Added a cable choke because the in manifold type isn't available anymore. Nothing a 4bbl intake and electric choke carb won't fix.

If you want to run a motorcycle tube, ONLY buy Dunlop tubes. The vast majority of the "others" are made in Taiwan and DO NOT last long. I put a new Kenda brand tube and decent used Avon on a friend's 57 HD and the tube held air for a whopping 15 seconds. The stem delaminated from the tube body. Have never had problems with Dunlop tubes, and I've had dozens of motorcycles over the last 23 years. For a touch of added peace of mind, you can add the correct diameter motorcycle rim band to cover the rivets in factory Mopar wheels. You don't need them, but they won't hurt anything if you want them. Fixing tubes is easy, any tire shop that deals with tractor trailers can patch them. 20" trailer tires are still tube type. You can find the correct metal valve stems just about anywhere, even Wal-mart tire shops have them. Had a new set of 4 put in the antique Ford and Dodge rims on my late 1960s horse trailer a couple months ago. They sell brass ones, if you want chrome, hit up a motorcycle shop. You can even get chrome with 45 or 90 degree stems, short for bare wheels, long for ones with full wheel covers or trim rings. $4.95 to $12.95 each. As long as the tire shop doesn't try to use an all rubber unit they will be fine.

Easy, stereo worked great. Broke 3 plug wires one day doing a tune up (heat siezed boots), had a set of copper core wires. Threw them on, fired up the truck (318s really like old style plug wires by the way) turned on the stereo (old style tape deck with analog type tuner knobs). Pure static. Swapped modern plug wires on later in the day, turned on the stereo, pure static. The interference from the old school wires shorted out something in the tuner according to the stereo rebuilder I had check it. Now the truck has a CD deck (el cheapo from Wallyworld) and suppression core wires. Cheaper than fixing the old obsolete tape deck. Have an old dual voltage Blaupunkt analog AM/FM/SW receiver for the 49. Supposedly it won't have the same interference issues as the modern units. Believe it when I see it.

Being back on the farm is doing wonders for me. Losing weight, down to a pack or less a day (instead of 3-4 packs while driving semis), work is being done to both of my old trucks (49 B1B-108 and 69 D100-128). Stress level is basically in the basement. My wife is trying to find me an off farm real job but wants me to spend most of my time helping her father (who is 85) get things caught up, repaired, pruned, etc. Sleep in, have coffee, spend the rest of the day running the chainsaws, front end loader, mowing the orchards, whatever else needs to be done. And I still have time to make parts for my 49 to adapt modern components off a complete (wrecked) 92 Ranger. It's like the almost 10 years I wasted back in western Washington never happened.

You actually CAN run supression core wires on a flathead. Had them on a 40 Pontiac L6 I played with in 94. Don't need them unless you have converted to 12v with modern stereo, CB or electronic ignition. Real plug wires give you a much better current flow. Even my 1998 motorcycle uses non-resistor wire (but has resistor type plug boot from the factory, 652cc Hemi head single cylinder). My points fired 69 D-100 can use non-resistor wires, but it will frag the stereo. Ask me how I found THAT one out...

You guys just HAD to wait to do this until AFTER I scrapped 50# of 2"x2" 6061T651 bar stock? Figures...

Plus you step the jets down a size or three for multi-carb set-ups. Just don't go too lean or you'll blow the engine. Ask me how I know (2300+cc Bug with dual Webers)...

Passenger side on my truck works great, door closes and can be locked shut. Driver's side? Won't even close all the way, and the hinges are not worn. For the amount of scut work to weld in and recountour the stock latches I'm seriously considering converting to modern bearclaw latches and being done with it. Or to stay kind of original, cutting a set out of a junk pre-67 Sweptline door and jamb. But bearclaws are safer. Somebody makes them that work with our original inner/outer handles and rods. Can't remember who offhand but they advertise in Street Rodder.

My basically stone stock chassis has: one midway under the passenger floorboard, roughly 6" from the inner frame flang edge. One on the forward rear spring mount crossmember, again roughly 6" in from the flange edge. And one 2" in front of the rear most crossmember (rear spring rear hanger), 3/4-1" IN from the edge of the flange at about a 20 degree angle. That's stock for a 49, what is left of the original headpipe is still mounted in the truck. I remember the muffler fell out in the shop in 94. It was roughly 1/2 of its own length under the cab. Looked like a basic round tractor muffler. Inside too... Had to go see for myself, you guys made me curious.

Still have my 218 4 blade, a brand new pump is only $60. Front port, inner ear is almost completely cracked off. Making one from two is nothing unusual, I also have a Sweptline...

Helped to build one (52 3/4 ton) and never would do that again. It is easier to swap all the Jeep stuff onto the Dodge chassis. Unless it is one of the oddball models with a 350 Olds engine. Then you pass on it and find one with a straight 6 or a 401 AMC engine, or a later model with Chrysler V8. Olds powered parts donors have a lot of odd 1 or 2 year only parts. Huh, my B1B is running pop-top 1978 Ramcharger (Dodge flavor) 4x4 15" rims...

Want to come to west TN and shoehorn a 413-3/727 into a Pilot House truck? Along with the donor vehicle air over hydraulic brakes (and their axles)... A write up would be great. Current L6 project vehicle is actually staying L6, but, I know where there is another truck I could get cheap...

Too dark right now, and still haven't found the camera cord... I hate the moving gremlins... Manifold? Are you in need of a john boat anchor? Just kidding, actually tried to pull it this afternoon, the 218 has a good carb, intake and exhaust, correct for the 49 truck (they are factory to the truck). It is going to take a nut splitter, thermite or C4 to pull the 230 parts... Broke a socket on one of the stuck exhaust nuts. And found out the water pump is junk, shaft wiggles. And the fan is bent. :mad:er

My 48 218 appears to use a flared end on the head pipe, the collar slips up and bolts to the exhaust manifold outlet. My 56 230 has a tapered tubing extension sticking out past the base of the manifold outlet. Slip pipe over and bolt the flanges together. Needs a welded flange on the headpipe I'd guess. Manifold is cracked so... too bad, the 56 engine has a hot air automatic choke instead of the 48's cable choke. And the big heat exchange flap moves. Not sure what the base plate under the manifold is covering. I think I need a set of headers and twin carb intake... I know the 218 exhaust manifold is going to shatter if I try to drill and whatever it for the 230 choke tube.

Mine turned into grayish greenish translucent sand. And ate the wheel cylinder pistons. No more DOT 3 for me. Going to install 100% new components and run DOT 5. It stays a beautiful water free purple for years. Luckily one of my Sweptliner friends also carries Pilot House era brake parts (all of them). The more moisture DOT 3 and 4 absorb, the more caustic/corrosive they get.

Yeah, but my title has the serial number to a lump of scrap iron. I hate dealing with state inspectors to get paperwork corrected. Thank god my dad has the original bill of sale from 1949 in his safe and is going to send it my way. He signed the title for me (as his parents' executor) but I have a feeling I'll need the real deal paperwork to prove the truck is "clean".

Not sure what clutch or flywheel I have, but my 49 B1B currently has a 48 P15 218 with truck 3 on the floor, truck through the floor pedal type starter, truck manifolds, truck generator and brackets... everything lines up. Grandpa drove it like that from 65-74. So I'm hoping against hope that all the truck stuff will swap onto my 56 Savoy 230, the block, guts and head are good...

My 230 (out of a 56 Savoy) hs code DZ and 1/2 a star, nothing else. And no milling marks on the number pad as if the original number had been ground off. My 218 (out of a 48 P15) has a standard factory number in the pad, and it was a short block installed in 1965 fresh from a rebuilder exchange program. So my 49 1/2 ton truck was technically registered as a 1948 P15 engine... Washington used to use the engine number as the vehicle serial number.