White Spyder

I think so too but what if it is the canister side that ie the problem? Won’t know until it is re-installed and filled. The lines were a pia to get off and I would not want to damage the canister.

48 Chrysler with a 251 six cylinder engine. Had to remove the oil canister and lines to replace a leaking Welch plug. Decided to clean the lines and canister before reinstalling. Water washing things up I found a copper crush washer in the tub. Looking further, I found what appears to be another in the bottom inlet on the canister. Still have to take a scraper to it. With flared metal lines, are there supposed to be crush washers on the lines going to the canister? If so, what about the lines going to the block? Thanks,

Bought a set from The Old Motor.

The Welch plug in the photo developed a pin hoe leak. To remove it I had to take off the oil filter lines and the filter can. I need suggestions on how to get the plug out. Not much room to swing a hammer against a screwdriver to bend it. Thought about drilling a hole and then prying it out but am concerned about the metal shavings getting into the water passage.

Great suggestions. It does have a lip at the top of the tube

Don’t really want to drop the pan. Going to spray it down with PB Blaster and try rocking it loose.

Is the dipstick tube held in place by friction? Any hints on how to remove it while in the car? My car has a canister oil filter and I need to remove he lines to repair a leaking Welch plug that is behind them.

Awsome! My 8 year-old granddaughter loves my old cars. Likes to turn wrenches with me.

Gunmetal

Sad to hear. A loss of old school knowledge.

Had the chance to help make some wedding memories for a couple.

peg Leg in my front drive

I just changed rear wheel cylinders and have had a hard time bleeding as well. No leaks in the system. Finally gett just a bit of peddle but not like it was before. I didn't have this much trouble when I put disks on the front and replaced all the lines to all wheels. With the what Little I have I am throwing in the towel and going to get it on the trailer and take it to a brake specialist.

Only work was cylinders and shoes. The lines were disconnected for just two days as I waited for the parts to arrive but I did tape them off. Unless the fluid evaporates quickly, there was no fluid spilling out of the two lines while they were disconnected and the master was pretty much full when I opened it to start bleeding. As to the shoes and adjustments, I used the procedure for adjustment without the special tool outlined in the tech section of this forum. Adjusting the minor out until it slightly drags, then adjusting the major (bottom ) to eliminate the drag and then repeat. On on one side I was able to save the cylinder pins, on the other they were so corroded that I replaced them. With the comments above, I plan to remove the drums again and start over from the point of the shoes being installed. Check to see that when the peddle is presses that there is good movement from the cylinders and repeat the adjustments. Lastly, I will try to run down a pressure bleeder to bleed the system. We will see then! Oher ideas are welcome.

Will have to check. Means pulling the drums again. Howeve, I can confirm no fluid is leaking from the cylinder. Not able to build any pressure at the peddle.

Update; I have been on the road for work and finally got a chance to do some more work. Disconnected the lines and pulled the cylinders, got the springs back on and went through the adjustment process. Tightened the all the nuts and started to bleed brakes at the right rear. I can not not seem to get the air out of either side. It is like there is a air leak in the system. No fluid is leaking at any point along the lines or at the wheels. I have gotten more than a pint of clear fluid through the bleeders (yes I have been putting fresh fluid in after a pump or 2 on the peddle) Is it possible that the new cylinders are bad? When I get my wife to press the peddle and hold it down, the rear brakes are not contacting the drums as if the cylinders are not pushing outward.

Another question. On the bottom shoe pins there is an arrow etched into the end inside of adjusting pin. When installing new shoes, where should the arrow point to star the adjustment process? Straight up, facing inward or facing outward? thanks,

Putting the new return springs back was a B$&@? The ones from Andy's are noticeable shorter than the ones that were on them.

Got it! Used a 4' pipe over my 1/2 inch drive. When it let go, there was a loud bang and I thought I had broken the driver. Getting that side drum off was also tough glad I invested in the puller.

Started the project. I am having trouble getting the castle/axle nut loose. Right side was easy just a bit of pressure and it was loose. Left side I couldn't get it to budge. Used Some penitrating oil, hit the wrench with a dead blow hammer even tried an air wrench. Should I try a breaker bar or heat next?

Ordered cylinders, springs and shoes from Andy B's. Also getting a drum puller.

When I did the front convertion to disc brakes I replace all the lines and hoses. I will start looking for a good drum puller. I plan to use ne cylinders, shoes and springs. Thanks for the tips.

It is a '48.

It's time for the rear brakes on my Windsor to be re-worked. They are dragging. I replace the hoses a couple of year ago when I did the front disk conversion so, I believe that the wheel cylinders need to be replaced. Any hints or suggestions to make the move go smoothly would be much appreciated.