White Spyder

You can just soak it in cleaning solution and then throughly rinse. Make sure you use the proper copper “cup crush” washers when reconnecting the lines. I got them through Grainger.

So, if it draws more than 65 amps while slowly turning the engine, it is time for a rebuild? My battery is holding 6.v but I have noticed that the starter is slower turning the engine than in the past.

For an original 6volt Chrysler 251, how many amps should the starter be drawing when engaged?

What suppliers are best for a new pump and I would like to see photos of any shrouds added. thanks

All the suggestions on the radiator are good thoughts. I should have given more information. When I got the car 7 years ago it had an issue with overheating even when moving. I replaced the radiator with a new one. While the radiator was out, I pulled the water tube for a good cleaning. It was in acceptable condition so it went back in. Also pulled a lower Welch plug and flushed the block. Lots of “mud “ was removed. Since then I’ve not had an issue. While I have only done a couple of parades, no problem until today. As a side note, I had a different Welch plug spring a leake a few months ago and when I replaced it I took the opportunity to flush the block again. Very little “mud flushed out that time. Could it be and issue with the vanes of the water pump have corroded and not enough water is being moved at idle? Maybe, it appears to be the original. The car only has 82k on the clock. The fan pully appears to be original as well as the fan. The question about the electrical fan was a thought that would be an easy route without having to replace the pump. I am definitely open to all suggestions

Our Club participated in the towns Christmas parade this morning. Bonnie decided that she did not like idling and creeping on the route even though the crowd was enjoying her presence. The temperature was 65* and within 15 minutes the temp gauge was 220*. I bailed out and within 2 blocks of heading home the gauge was dropping to 200*. Within a mile, down to normal operation temperature. Obviously, she doesn’t like low rpm or speed. I am thinking that I might add an electrical fan to the font of the radiator. Has anyone got recommendations for a 6volt positive ground fan? Other thoughts and ideas are welcome .

Hard to beat a drive like that.

This car still makes me smile, even just sitting in it.

Hope you enjoy many miles I that work of art.

Nice job.

Mine sprung a pinhole leak a bit back. Turned into a bigger project than expected because of the oil line and filter canister. I used an impact hammer to make sure mine seated due to the cramped space.

Not tinted. Just early morning light. However, living in Mississippi with temperatures in the upper 90’s and humidity over 80%, a/c would be nice!

Drone shot this morning IMG_0343.MOV

Drove 50 miles to a show this weekend after a the repairs. Bonnie did not miss a beat; 60-65 mph in 93* and the gauges read 180* temp and just under 40psi for the oil. All is good.

I would agree with the suggestion to have a professional re-hab the paint. Too nice of a survivor.

Electrical connector for the Fluid drive to control the transmission relay.

I believe I found the issue. Haven’t driven yet to confirm. I do recall y shop light falling while doing the Welch plug. MST have pulled the wire loose.

I stand corrected. It is the relay that is on the driver’s side fender tat is rapidly clicking.

I stand corrected. It is the relay that is on the driver’s side fender tat is rapidly clicking.

My 48 Windsor with fluid drive had a leaking Welch plug that required me to remove the oil canister and hard lines. After the repair, I went for a test run and now seem to be having an issue with the solenoid that controls the fluid drive. When decelerating, the solenoid rapidly clicks at about 40 mph and 20 mph. It also disengages the transmission occasionally. While working n the Welch plug I was leaning into the car over the solenoid. I check the wires and idle and all is good. Any help is appreciated.

Got this project done! It was a real bitch to get the hard oil lines lined up to keep them from cross threading. But it is all sealed up and running again.

By the way, I have another thread related to this on copper crush washers for the oil canister. If you are doing this job, take a look at it too.

Got them out with the self tapping screws and a pry bar. I bought an impact hammer to re-install them. I use red RTV sealer on the edges of the plugs. The plugs flattened somewhat but not as flat as the originals. Hope the sealed and hold.

Ordered them through Grainger.

Where do you get them? Andy B. Doesn’t have them nor even knew about them? What about where they go into the block? I didn’t see any there. Maybe they fell off befor I saw them. I was working at an odd angle with a crows foot to brake the nuts loose.