Ivan_B
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Everything posted by Ivan_B
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https://www.autopaper.com/1934-plymouth-dealer-color-prestige-sales-brochure-six-de-luxe-coupe-sedan.php The dealer brochures could be useful
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Just crank the engine, cold, to circulate the oil And, as previously mentioned, use proper lubrication during the assembly.
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Guys, are you seriously advising the "Italian tuneup" on a 1940 American car? 🙄 Also, to clean the engine sludge out - use synthetic oil with detergents, and change often, works very well. Also #2, seafoam will just evaporate from the oil before you know it.
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No, no, you are alright, a hinge type assembly at the floor side makes sense. I just do not recall seeing one, on my car. I'll take another look at it, later.
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That looks just like my setup - 40 tail pipe with water stains and cardboard to the left 😅 Sorry, I don't think you can do much about it. Other cars will do this too, depending upon the configuration of the exhaust, its age, and other factors. My newer fuel injected vehicle does not spit out of the pipe but it has a small rusty hole at the bottom of the front edge of the muffler and the black water comes out of there every-time you run it. Sometimes, a lot of water comes out 🙄
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I am that guy. But I no longer have a girlfriend with a grandpa's car because we've got married a long time ago 🤣 But seriously - all stock original cars are the best! 😍
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I just looked at my own 40 pedal - there is no hinge at the bottom. There is just a rubber block with two holes molded to the pedal body.
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You should've carefully inspected and tested the engine right away... I've also had a very bad experience with someone "rebuilding" a motorcycle engine for me, once. After that, I had to send it to another shop who discovered all sorts of "things" inside Now I know better...
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The main problem here, I think, is that if he fixes the bottom to the studs, the top of the other (and presumably correct) pedal appears to be too far away
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You are probably right, sorry 😅 However, it is always nice to pass something good on to the next generations. If I got a stock classic car from my grandparents, that would've been so awesome (but I did not, because their cars did not survive). For the proper joints, I was referring to the disassembly-friendly connections, as opposed to a single-piece welded exhaust, as done by some cheap and lazy shops. My manual only goes back to 1936, but it looks like the factory exhaust had 2 pieces: down pipe with muffler, and the long back pipe.
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And that is the right choice, no need to make silly noises on a good-looking stock car 😉 Did you invest into stainless, for longevity? Also, did they do proper joints, in all the right places, as the factory setup would've been?
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How doe the hole in the floor for the pedal rod look, is it still the OEM shape? Assuming that the linkage\levers has not been changed\modified, the original pedal is expected to fit correctly. Maybe someone just replaced the floorboard?
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Just noticed that you have a somewhat complicated roof structure. Make sure to seal those corners (where one plane goes into the other) very well, at the bottom. This is likely where it will start leaking the soonest
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And I thought I've seen all the wacky vintage car accessories...
Ivan_B replied to Pep48's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Great find, never seen it either. It kind of makes sense, though. Considering the time when pocket watches were mainstream, this is for an older car where there is no clock. Probably intended for professional drivers who are on schedule. So that you don't have to reach into your pocket, all the time, you just put the watch on the steering wheel, right in front of you. Very convenient. -
The quickest check is probably to compare batty voltage running vs. non-running. The rest of the problems do not really sound like problems, unless you are buying a mint daily-driven car for lots of $. All used cars usually need some regular maintenance, and the old ones also have wear due to materials' aging and improper storage
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I am sorry, but I don't follow this sentence... 🤨 Did you take pictures? What's wrong with it?
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Speaking about smell: carnauba literally attracts bees (or wasps, I can't tell the difference) for some reason. So be careful 😉
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Oh yeah. that car does look great, based upon the videos. First thing I would do (after making sure it is ready to drive) is put on some regular mufflers. Them loud ones are just silly for an adult on a classic sedan 😉 The original knobs were some sort of cellulose plastic, I believe, that's why they tend to disintegrate completely with time. These can be lathed out of hard wood, or even 3D printed and polished... There are a few sets on e-bay, for some cars, but they use different mounting hardware and not all knobs are available. Also, what I think could be really awesome - is to line all the faux wood panels with a thin layer of real wood...
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It should be the same process you do with the kingpin bushings, only on a considerably smaller scale 😏
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Shouldn't you be drilling and reaming both sides at the same time?
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Yep. This is, indeed, very doable and there are a couple of different techniques that can be used. Good job!
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Carnauba is just one of the ingredients, originally coming from some fancy tree leafs I always use liquid wax (with carnauba) so that I do not need to buff anything, essentially wearing down the paint I am trying to preserve.
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The only way I know is to install shaft bushings. I saw kits on e-bay with the tools and bushings 🙂
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Is that original paint? What does the car look like from underneath? For parts, you can start by casting and machining some brake drums. If you can do them for less than $500 a piece 😉 Also, some good quality replacement dash knobs and radio buttons would be great (at least for the 40s models).
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Thank you, you are right 😇
