bacelaw
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Everything posted by bacelaw
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The 41 plymouth master cylinder doesn't have a hoop on it for the pedal mechanism...on the 41, the master is totally separate from the pedal assembly....fyi
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When you adjusted the valves, was the engine hot?
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If she idles down at 600rpm smoothly, I think you can rule out any major vacuum leaks. So, it's got to be fuel delivery (fuel pump or carb) or ignition related. I bet Keith would suggest testing fuel pump pressure. If that checks out, and you said the carb is new, and the gas is fresh, it must be ignition related or timing. Does the vacuum advance and mechanical advance on the distributor function as they should? It's possible you have a bad/new condenser out of the box.
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Thanks everyone. Now that I have an extra rebuilt engine, I know I'll never need it - out of spite, my original engine will outlast me. I'm going to disassemble, treat the bores and crank with penetrating oil (or similar) and store everything inside the heated basement. I know the conventional wisdom is to keep the motor complete, but it's easy to tear down these flatheads...once the crank is out, the pieces are much easier to move around. Thanks as always!
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Hi all: I have a fresh rebuild 230 flathead. I don't plan on installing it for years. Would you rather store it outside in a shed (complete), or disassemble and keep parts in a heated basement shop and treat the bores with penetrating oil?
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I'm not trying to be negative, but don't new shoes arc to the drums automatically after some miles? When we got new shoes a couple years ago, we just drove the car, then re-adjusted the brakes after several hundred miles.
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You might be overfilling it. The book for my wagon says 1/2" *below* the top of the resevoir is the maximum.
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Sent you a private message
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I have an extra, in MA...other than Ebay, may be tricky to locate.
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I think the actual price is $280.
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I think a carb spacer between the intake and carb, a fiberglass type heat shield wrap around the steel fuel line, routing the fuel line farther away from the hot manifolds, are all options that should help vapor lock or boiling fuel.
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This forum is the best. It's a spectrum if you ask me - there's a perfect rebuild on one end, a ring and valve job on the other, and everything in between. From everything I've read, I bet with new rings that motor outlasts all of us. You have good oil pressure, decent compression, and you don't want to pull the motor - so try to repair that cylinder wall, new rings, seal the valves better and do the PCV upgrade. Drive and smile while you rebuild the spare.
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If you call Roberts Parts in newbury MA, they have the correct tie rod ends. I just bought all four and am very happy with the product. Two of them are left hand thread, two of them are right hand thread, so the tubes can be adjusted.
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For some reason, the clutch and pressure plate appear different between the two. I'm guessing it's all interchangeable? Thanks!
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Hi all: I recently acquired a 218 from a 1950 Plymouth and I'm excited to rebuild/refresh to go in my '41 Plymouth wagon. I know the '41 Transmission will bolt up to the 1950 bellhousing - my question is: are the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing all specific to the 1950 block? Or, is the clutch and pressure plate specific to the 1941 transmission? Thanks!
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THIS! I changed master cylinder and couldn't ever get brakes properly adjusted. Turns out, the depth of the piston cupboard different, and brakes never fully released. Pushrod adjustment did the trick. If your pushrod length is not correct, you'll never get shoes to fully release.
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Who sold you the tank and sender?
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I may have an extra sending unit if you need one. Just send me a PM, I'm sure we can work something out.
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Did you run a ground from a mounting screw on the sender (not the sender itself) to the frame? On the 41 gauge, there are only 2 wires going to the gauge. Neither of them is hot and neither is a ground. A ground wire is required from the sender mounting screw. .at least that's my memory from a couple years ago.
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On the 41 plymouth version I have, all you do is run a ground wire from one of the mounting screws on the sending unit to the frame - then the gauge works great...
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Yes! I spray painted a modern 6v coil, ran a new wire through the firewall, and you'd never know the difference.
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No. When he was selling me a NOS coil, he said "NOS coils are the only way to go". When he was offering me $20 for one he told me NOS coils were rarely usable, which just isn't true. He wasn't trying to buy low and sell high. He was trying to take advantage of someone who he thought didn't know any better. There's a difference.
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When I first got my Plymouth two years ago, I needed an ignition coil. Warsaw told me his were NOS and $300, and the only option because of the one-wire setup. Thankfully, I found this forum. Last year I found two NOS coils, in their boxes. I listed them on Facebook marketplace for sale. Warsaw (forgetting that he tried to screw me a year earlier), contacted me and offered me $40 for *both* telling me "those NOS coils are likely not usable anyway". Oh, and then he threatened to file a lawsuit against me when I told him I am happy to spread the word about his business ethics. I have a few other stories as well...
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I've had several terrible experiences with moparpro and Mike warsaw.
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Any idea what the Carter pump puts out as far as pressure? Can the mechanical pump still draw fuel through it when not in use? Needle and seat can still operate?
