bacelaw

I had a couple bad experiences very recently with Moparpro and Mike himself. I wound up cleaning up my wheel cylinders myself with light sanding, and new internals. If you ask me, old wheel cylinders are absolutely worth rebuilding. Roberts Parts (Newbury Massachusetts), has tons of reproduction parts and they couldn't be nicer people.

No, it's designed for thin fuel line. Here's an Amazon link to what i used. AC PERFORMANCE 3/8" ID Silicone Coated Fiberglass Heat Shielded Fire Sleeve for Hose Line and Spark Plug Wire, 3/8 ID, 5 Feet (9.5 mm ID) https://a.co/d/akuKrXj

I wrapped the fuel line that goes from pump to carb in a heat sink type wrap available on Amazon; I think it's fiberglass or something. I drove today in 90 degree weather, started immediately after sitting for 20min or so. If that doesn't work, see Keith's video on an eletrical pump add-on...

Thanks, I've seen that site. I was hoping more for the hex color code, or a modern color that someone has found is a very close match...

Hi all: my '41 Wagon is "Eddins Blue," and I'm hoping to find someone who knows the paint code, or a very close match in modern color - I'm repainting wheels in prep for tires. Anyone have an Eddins Blue car and knew the code? Thanks

Have you replaced your ignition coil recently? I thought I had carb/fuel issues...replaced a 50+ year old coil, and it's like a new vehicle. Smooth acceleration through all the gears.

Is there a page for the Wagon as well?

Hi all: anyone know what type of antenna connector hooks to the speaker box on my '41? This is the treaded connection at the speaker box. My antenna long ago broke off, and I'm trying to find out what electrical connection will make it work...

Thanks Bob - I didn't know that. So, as long as it's for a 23" engine block, most intake manifolds from the 40's should bolt to my block and to my '41 exhaust manifold? There are a few decent looking ones on ebay for short money.

Hi all: my intake manifold is cracked, causing some rough running. Anyone have a good one for 201? I'm in MA, and will pay including shipping out here. Thanks in advance!

I just went through this and ran a ground wire under one of the mounting screws to the frame. Solved all my issues. Moparpro did send me a fuel sender that was bad out of the box - swapped it out and all is well...

If you need the cream/blonde color escutcheons- I have four that I'm not using. @michael.warsaw told me they would work with my wagon and of course they don't, $100+ later...

I will open up the voltage regulator and see what the connections look like, and/or just replace it. If I just swap the voltage regulator, generator doesn't need to be re-polarized or anything does it?

Steady 6.35 with engine off, with both meters, so the battery and meter are good to go...I just can't get a steady reading with the engine running, it jumps from 9 to 19 volts which seems strange. Dash ampmeter also jumps, especially when car is cold - seems to stabilize when hot. My concern is that the regulator isn't working and will overcharge the battery.

When I put the meter on the appropriate setting, I get a reading jumping from 9 to 19 rapidly.

I agree, I've used two multimeters and both show the same...it actually fluctuates all over the place but generally pegs at 1800 or more.

20230306_113332.heic

Hi all: 41 wagon, 6v positive system all original. While running, when I test battery voltage, I get 1,000 (yes, one thousand) volts... I've used 2 different multimeters. This can't be normal right?

Hi all: does anyone have a picture of the trim (escutcheons) around interior door handles on a woodie wagon? I know on the sedans, there's a spring inside the door cards that pushes the trim tight against the door handle. But on the woodie's, the door cards are wood - so there's no place for the spring to hold the trim tight against the handle. Is there some sort of gasket or something on the woodie wagons? Thanks!

Thanks Tom. I don't ever plan on driving the wagon in cold weather, so I'm not concerned with the flapper being functional. I just don't want it to restrict the exhaust flow... I'll try to work it free with the carb removed.

Hey everyone: I adjusted rear brakes, because they were dragging, and advanced the timing a few degrees before TDC - she now rolls better, and has much more pickup. I think that was most of my low power issue...Once I added some advance, the vacuum test was steady at 18in. or so. It didn't slowly creep down, so I don't think the muffler or exhaust is restricted. But, I did find that the heat riser is completely seized, probably in the closed position. If I remove the carb, can that flapper be removed from above the exhaust manifold? Or, do I need to buy a new manifold?

I had a feeling vacuum gauge could show restricted exhaust. Thanks everyone! I have a full day to test all these issues and I'll report back.

Hi all: this is really great stuff; the motor is stock, 55k miles or so. Tomorrow I'm going to check all your suggestions. I had no idea there was a heat riser between the manifolds - I'll check to make sure that functions. I'll use the minor adjustment bolts on all four brakes and make sure there's no drag at all on the shoes, and push her out of the garage. I'll check the points plate, and also that I'm getting full throttle with the pedal - all great ideas. I'll definitely advance the timing a bit more than TDC. How do I tell if I have an exhaust restriction in the muffler? Other than smacking the muffler with a hammer, is there another way to determine if it's restricted? Vacuum gauge?

It's not that easy to push... I've adjusted the rear brakes and the rear wheels spin in the air but not that freely. I thought I had rear brakes adjusted well, but should they spin really easily with no brake drag at all?

Hi all: thanks to everyone here I have my 41 Woody stopping well with no brake leaks. She starts immediately, runs smooth, but I have to floor the gas pedal up a moderate hill. I'm not looking to drag race, and I get it - she's an 80 year old heavy wood vehicle. But I can't get her comfortably over 40mph without absolutely mashing the gas pedal, and hill climbing is the same. Timing is at TDC. Points are new. Carb is new. Gas is fresh. Compression test checks out okay. I won't be offended if the response is - that's normal. Any thoughts? Thank you!