Jim Yergin

How is your water distribution tube? Have you checked it? Jim Yergin

Rodney, Congratulations. That is great news. Looking forward to seeing the pictures. Jim Yergin

Phil, As I understand it, the speedometer drive gear in the transmission should not need to be changed. It is the gear on the end of the speedometer cable that gets changed depending on rear axle ratio and tire size. According to the Plymouth parts book, your P10 with a 4.1:1 rear axle and 6.00X16 tires should have a speedometer gear with 18 teeth. Do you know what you have in there now? It might be worth it to pull out the end of the speedometer cable from the transmission and count the number of teeth. It sounds like it may have a gear with less than 18 teeth making the speedometer read faster than actual speed. Jim Yergin

Rodney, Just remember that my brake set-up works so well that it would only let me go 100 yards towards the Sully show and no further. Stopping is not the problem, in my car it is the "going." Jim Yergin

About seven years ago I was given an original dash clock for my '41 P12. At that time I sent it out to be overhauled but I never got around to hooking it up. This past weekend I connected the power to it but it would not run. After checking this forum for past postings on clocks I removed the clock from the car and took it apart. I cleaned and lubricated the mechanism and got it to run. However it would only do so with a 7.5 amp or higher fuse. The specified 2 amp and even a 3 amp fuse will burn out as soon as the contacts connected. In addition, when the contacts made contact there would very often be a loud buzzing sound and visible arcing at the points. I cleaned the points and the noise and arcing stopped. Can anybody tell me why it is pulling more amperage then it is supposd to? Do I need to repair some thing or do I resign myself to just having the correct time twice a day? Thanks. Jim Yergin

Ed, I do have an old amp meter with good wiring studs on the back. If you PM me a mailing address, I will send it to you. Jim Yergin

Ed, I am pretty sure I have one from my P12. I will check tonight and let you know. Jim Yergin

James, That is great news. Please put me on the list for a copy of your treatise. Jim Yergin

Bob, I installed Auto-Lite headlight relays in my '41 P12. The headlight wire from the high/low beam switch runs to the relay to operate the relay switch. Then there is the headlight power source wire and the wire to the headlights that the relay switch connects when it is engaged. The relays I used are single purpose so I had to install two of them, one for the low beams and one for the high beams. Jim Yergin

I found a leak at a brake fitting using my home made pressure bleeder. No sign of the leak until I pressurized the system. Until then I had trouble bleeding the system. You might want to try a pressure bleeder. Jim Yergin

James, I did a search at PartVoice for that part number. It showed two suppliers have it: Silke's Auto Parts Jacksonville, FL 33217 904-737-8600 CW Beamgard Co Atwood, KS 785-626-3286 Hope this helps. Jim Yergin

James, Did you ever determine a part number for that part? Jim Yergin

Good luck. Jim Yergin

Ed, I used three terminal blocks that each had two rows of four terminals. I left the outside terminals on each end empty. Hope that makes sense. Jim Yergin

Ed, I went back through my files and found the wiring schematic that I used to build the relay box for my car. It is not the greatest and I don't know if it will help you but here it is. I also took a picture of it in my car but admittedly it is hard to see it. Finally I did a search on line and found some possible sources for the 6 volt 10 amp dpdt 8 pole relays. You might want to check them out. I know this appears complicated and I was intimidated by it but if I can make it work, anyone can. It allows me to use my original brake lights (my wagon did not have a middle brake light) and single element parking lights as turn signals using a three wire turn signal switch. Jim Yergin MarVac electronics 6 volt dpdt 10 amp relay http://www.marvac.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=245 Minute Man Electronics 6 volt dpdt 10 amp R14-11D10-6 http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/R14_Series_10___15_Amp_General_Purpose_Relays.html 6VAC 10 amp DPDT Potter Brumfield ABC11AY $7.00 http://www.leedsradio.com/parts-odds.html NTE R02-11D10-6 DPDT 6 Volt DC Relay $10.75 http://www.acradiosupply.com/cat/NTE+R02+Series+General+Purpose+10+Amp+Multicontact+AC++DC+Relays.html

Thanks Bob. I would be interested in seeing any pictures you can share. Don, you are correct, my '41 has a bolt for the lower generator bracket that has a place for the ground strap. The cable I am using is not long enough to reach that spot so mine is also attached to the head bolt. Jim Yergin

I don't know how common that color was but one of my '41 parts car wagons was that color. Hard to believe it but that color was under all that rust. Looks a little different from the one Bob posted. Jim Yergin

That is a beautiful car. I agree that the upholstery does not look right. The original seats in my car are flat without the pleats. As far as I know, only the convertibles in '41 had body colored dashes, the wagon's were supposed to be wood grained. The horn ring is the same half circle as in mine. The shifter knob also indicates that the car has the "power shift" vaccuum assist option. This one even has the optional passenger side tail light. I have never seen those rear bumper guards on a wagon. They have to be where they are or else the tail gate would hit them when opened. Should be interesting to see what it goes for. Jim Yergin (owner of a (to-date) stationary 1941 Plymouth P12 wagon)

Thanks James. I will just be testing the car in regular drive to make sure it stays in gear. If so then I will road test it and work on the O/D set-up as you suggest. Jim Yergin

James, I have never driven the car in O/D. I have yet to install a fuse in the relay and in my two very short and aborted drives I never got out of first gear. My plan right now is to leave the car up on the jack stands and "drive" it while stationary in the garage and see what happens. Jim Yergin

I have a '53 O/D transmission in my '41 Plymouth. In my second attempt at a test drive a couple of weeks ago, after about 100 yards the car refused to move in any gear. Once I pushed it back into the garage, I discovered that the gear selector rod was broken. I replaced the rod. I have the car up on jack stands and today I started it up to see what would happen with the car in gear. Again, the drive shaft was not turning. I then tried it with the manual lock-out pulled out. Now the drive shaft was turning and was driving the rear wheels. Finally I pushed the manual lock-out back in and now the transmission is driving the rear wheels. Does anyone have any idea as to what is going on with my car? Thanks. Jim Yergin

You might want to check the spindle uprights. My '41 Plymouth had brakes from a 1953 Plymouth and the uprights had been changed out. The later uprights have three "ears" that bolt to the backing plate where as the '41 uprights have four "ears." Don't know if the same is true for Desoto. I ended up installing disk brakes all the way around and used the three "ear" uprights since the disk brake kit called for them. Jim Yergin

Looks good. Nice work. Jim Yergin

James, Sure looks familiar. Did you find all the replacement parts you needed? Good luck with the re-assembly. Jim Yergin

I bought mine on eBay. Jim Yergin