Labrauer

I have to agree with Uncle-Pekka in what he has said about the changing of these cars and the way they have been made. Being just as dependable as a modern car of today's technologist with all the computer stuff to go wrong. I know that in my more modern car that my wife has if something goes wrong you have to take it to the dealer and it seems that even they guess to what is wrong. I like the body stiles of these old cars and trucks and I like the way that if you need to fix something that goes wrong you can do it yourself. I like the way the engine sounds going down the country road but on the freeway it worries me a little so I am installing a R10 overdrive in the coupe this winter. As far as 6 volt it is ok as I haven't had a bit of trouble out of it so far. I sometimes on these 100 degree days here in Texas would have liked to have air conditioning but then again it all boils down to that we are spoiled on air conditioning these days. How many modern cars these days do you see running around with the window down on hot days. Back in the days when I grew up and many of the older guys on the forum didn't grow up with air conditioning or many of the comforts of today. It all boils down to what you want out of the car be it new or old and what comforts you want. Changing the engine from a flat head 6 to a V8 is only the person that has the cars decision as for 6 volt or 12 volt. Make your call and just do it whether it be 12 or 6 volt, disc brakes, mustang front end, dual exhaust, more carbs., ect. Either way you turn there are plenty smart people on the forum that can help you..

Thanks once again guys on the information of my mystery piece. I would have never guested that these old cars had a engine warmer on them. Now it will be another week before I can get started on the rebuild again as we are leaving tomorrow morning on a 7 day cruse. So next Monday I will start working on it again. Thanks again and I will keep you informed on the progress. Larry

Thanks guys for all the information I just can't put in aspect of anything like that. The bolt sticking out of the block is about 3 inches long and has no top just a nut the held the head down to the block. I am just wondering if the other one that is the same length the same thing. I guess I will have to have it drilled out also and not replace it. The only thing is that when you look in the water jacket around the piston the end looks bigger than the diameter of the piece on the top. If that is the case how would you remove it?

Thanks for the ride seeing all the fall changes in the trees and all. Love the look of the country roads and especially the radio playing. Is that a radio or is it a modern CD player that is playing? I sure would love to go on a trip up the northern states in the fall in one of my two 48 Plymouth's. Old cars and scenery like that just seems to go together you know.

I took my engine to a machine shop to have some work done to it about a month ago only to receive a phone call early this morning saying the shop is closing up at 5pm today for good. I had my 218 Flathead there and also my son's ford 302. I had to get them both picked up so I changed my plans and went to pick them up. The 302 was done and my Flathead wasn't. After I got them home I noticed that there was a extra bolt in the box with the pistons. Somehow it got broken off there at the shop anyhow looking at it the bolt has two wires coming out and inside the block is still part of it with what it looks like a porcelain in the middle of the bolt with two holes for the wires. Now comes my question what does this bolt do and is it necessary to find one like it to put back in it's place. Does anyone know what it is for there is another one just like it just below sticking out about three inches above the block that my alternator bracket bolts to. Here are the pictures I took of the bolt and where it goes in the block. Any answers greatly appreciated, Larry

I like this thread on the overdrive R10 transmission as I have one that I am going to install in my 48 coupe soon. I just can't seem to grasp the way it is suppose to be hooked up. I have read a lot of different peoples ideas on this topic but some how can't seem to get it. I hope when I get to that time of installing I will be able to do with little effort. I like the fact of the button in the gear shift nob to be able to shift in and out better than the cable pull hookup. I also like the way it was hooked up in the above thread. I am wondering and have heard that you have no reverse gear when engaged and if this is true it would be better to have the button on the gear shift wouldn't it. I like the idea of the lights too being that my mind is not all here and being me I would probably not take out of overdrive and wouldn't know why I couldn't get reverse gear. If you are anyone has a diagram of how to use the lights or the gear shift button would you please IM me with the drawings or instructions. Thanks in advance as always, Larry

Thanks guys. I will try desoto's suggestion and try that method if it can be done. Now I just have to find the right wire or some wire the same size to do it with. I'll give it a try. Thanks again for you input, Larry

Do any of you guys on the forum know if it is possible to repair a hood lock cable? Mine has broke and I looked on ebay and some other sites for one and man do these people want a small fortune for one. $197.00 for the one that I found. Is it possible to repair one with just another cable wire and does the handle under the dash board come off the old cable? I can't see any screws in the handle at all so I am assuming that the handle doesn't come off. There is a spring like covering at the handle that goes into the handle that I can turn but not pull out. Oh yes for the ones that don't know what kind of cars I have its for a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe (P15). Any way all suggestions appreciated, Larry

Hey guys I have a distributor on my 48 Plymouth 218 engine that has the plate corroded and I can't see what type of distributor it is or should I say make. I can make out some numbers on the plate but can't find any information on those either. Can I get some help here on identification. The numbers I can read on the plate still are Co25025 and two more numbers that are 20566 and 420?1. Do these numbers mean anything to anyone that might tell me what brand or type distributor I have. Thanks in advance for the replies, Larry

I have the engine out of the 48 Plymouth coupe to rebuild it and can't make my mind up on what color to paint the engine, brackets, ect. My car is the sumac red on the outside and black and red on the interior. Just wanted to see some of you guys engine colors to see what would be a really nice color to paint it before I end up painting it and not liking the color. I know most are a silver or gray color but I wanted more. Thanks for the pics in advance, Larry

That is a very nice looking Dodge. I love the color and man you have it shined up great.

You might want to check with George Asche he has some old mopar cars and has helped me out quit often in parts that I couldn't find for my 48 Plymouth. If you PM me I can give you his number. Just a thought.

Here is a couple of more pics of the engine tear down and if you look closely you can see that this block has been welded up some time before. It is just full of welds on the side and across the end. Wonder why?

I plan on the reassembling the engine my self after the block and head gets cleaned and re-serfist. I have done engines before in my much younger years on v8's and ford 6 cylinders but never an old 48 Flathead. I have read many articles on doing it and all it entailed but never tried it so I may have to get some answers from you guys if I get stuck. I have just about all the gaskets I need to do it except for some that has to do with the oil pump. I have decided not to over size the pistons as the cylinder walls look very good I think they just need a good going over with a hone and they will be fine. The piston rods look good as well as the other parts internally on the engine. I still haven't been abl to remove the water tube yet so I am hoping that when the block gets boiled at the shop it will be able to be taken out and replaced and by the way can you leave it out and if so will it affect the engine in any way? I have an overdrive transmission that I will go back with when I place the engine back into the car with a new clutch and pressure plate, through out baring, pilot bushing ect. I am also getting the flywheel reserficed too so with any luck the old coupe will be back on the road soon. Not quite sure just how to hook the thing up but I know that George Asche has supplied the instructions with the tyranny I got from him last year. I wanted to hook it up the way that I saw and read of one guy that I think was put here on the forum with the kick in and out on the gear shift knob with the little button from radio shack. I have already drilled out the knob and put in the little button ran the wires through the shifting lever and out the fire wall. I just need to find the article on the way it should be hooked up to transmission. If anyone knows the article I am talking about and has it please send it to me. I am attaching some pics of the engine after I took it out of the car and dissembled it.

Well guys I went a head and pulled the engine out of the car and I am glad I did. I had a leaking freeze plug right where you couldn't get to it at least you wouldn't be able to get a swing on a hammer to seat the new one. Taking the freeze plugs out I found that two of the five on the side of the engine was completely plugged up with looks like carbon or something else. I took a small screw drive and dug what I could out and applied air to the rest. The holes now are open with the blowing and the I am going to find an engine repair shop to get the block magi-flux, cleaned along with the head. I haven't gotten those broken off head bolts out of the block yet. I have soaked them with the oil that you all recommend and they haven't bulged a bit.I have broken off five different drill bits trying to drill. I am thinking that if I take the engine If I take the engine to the engine rebuild shop I am hoping that they will be able to remove the broken bolts.Now that that is out of the way I am trying to find out how to remove the water distribution tube. I have pulled, tugged, and did just about everything I can think of to remove it but it will not budge. Have any ideas? Next question if I take the engine to the rebuild shop should I take the engine all apart like taking the timing chain off, water pump, oil pan, ect first or leave it all together? Thanks as always for the replies, Larry

Thanks guys for all the responses to my deli-ma in getting these broken off bolts out. I today put some of the Kroil on the two to let sit and see what I can do. I have everything crossed hoping that I will have luck. If I don't I don't know what I will do. I have tried to drill the center of one bolt and heck those bolts are as hard as rocks or should I say diamonds. I drilled and it was getting me nowhere just put a little dent in the top of the bolt. I have to go buy a new drill bit with a different taper to it as the ones I have don't seem to be drilling anything. If I had a drill with a magnetic base so I could have it stay still on the drilling it sure would be a lot better and that way I could put more pressure on the drill bit even though I have broken two of them already trying to drill one bolt. In all may days I have never had such a tight stubborn bolt to get out.

It is definitely different in looks from my coupe. I too like a lot of chrome trim as I think it makes the car look 100% better all around but then there is the cleaning and polishing and all the work removing water spots. When I first looked at the picture I thought that the body had be chopped or it looked to be shortened but with a closer look I see that there was trim missing. I don't care to much for the two different colors that was on the car nor do I like the finder skirts hiding the back wheels and tires. Just my option I like the wheels showing in the finder wells and not covered up but then again that is just me and my two cents worth. And what's with painting the bumpers? Now that to me looks tacky but again we all don't think alike on what we think looks good or we don't all have good taste. I do however like the gas filler door on the car explicitly if it is a locking one. I have this fear that some one is going to take my gas cap off and put rocks or sugar down in the tank like my little grandson or some other kid or heck even some adult that I have made mad just to get even with me.

Well guys I have tried the method of welding a washer and nut to the broken bolt and the weld held good but the darn bolt broke off a little more making it more difficult to do again. I am going to try the second bolt maybe tomorrow and see if it will come out with this method. I have not tried to use a hammer and punch to beat on the bolt yet but I will try it the next couple of days and try and fine that kroil penetrating oil to help on the way. Anyone else got any suggestions that might help not that I don't think that the method I'm using won't I am just open to all the suggestions I can get at this time in the ball game. It is hot as heck down here in Texas being 97* so I am going to have to find a nice fan. You just stand outside and the sweat just comes rolling off your body. It is a lot better and just a little cooler at night to work but my wife gets on to me for staying up all night and then all the next day too. Women what would we do without them??? Thanks guys once again, labrauer Larry

Thanks guys for all the information and a special thanks to Shel_ny on the information he provided on getting the broken bolts out. It all makes since on how this would work. Thanks to everyone that has posted to this thread, labrauer-Larry

Well I took the head off the car engine and as my luck has it broke two head bolts off so now I will have to try and get them out some how. Know any tricks to getting broken head bolts out besides a lot of work? For the most part the head looks pretty good with little carbon in the piston and valve indention. I have tapped the bolt holes out all but the two that I have to do something with. I took a 9" long screw driver and stuck down all the holes and most the screw driver went all the way down except for some of the holes on the intake and exhaust side of the block. I am taking the head down tomorrow to a machine shop if I can find one around here close and not have to drive all the way to Houston town. I will have them check it for warp and I think maybe have them shave just a little off the head just to be sure. I really don't care that much if it increases the horse power or not I just want it straight so hopefully this will not happen again. I also took a straight edge and checked the block myself using a light on the back side to see if any light came under the straight edge and also used a 0.10 feller gauge and could not get it under anywhere so I guess it is completely flat. I have sent some pics of the block and the head after I took it off. Take a look and see if you see anything that I may have missed or should take a further look at. I also sent some pics of the spot that the oil residue was coming between the head and the block. Now this is what has gotten on the head and block after I wiped it off and drove the car for about 12 miles.

Well I went ahead and voted to keep it but really it is all up to you and if you don't keep it I will surely take it off your hands. LOL. I have kept mine and would not think of replacing them unless I could not find another one if something happens to mine that I can't fix.

Thanks guys for all the comments and answers to my questions. It seems to me that most of you are not in favor of a complete overhaul which suits me just fine because I was wondering where the money for it was coming from. LOL I will take each and every one of your suggestions and put them to good use. Today I took a long hard look at the engine and noticed an oily film on the upper block just below cylinder number 4 and cylinder number 5 on the head. I took a rag and wiped it off and took the old girl for a drive a few miles and then looked again and the oil film was there again. Could this be part of my problem is that the head gasket is leaking? Just a couple other questions being can the valves be done with engine being in the car and how would you keep the grinned metal from going into the engine it's self? One other thing I am confused about is the sea foam stuff that member soth122003 commented in putting in the oil of his engine. Is this an oil additive or what and can I get it at the local parts stores? I have seen stuff called sea foam for the gas tank but don't think I have to add to oil. Is this sea foam ok to leave in the cars oil and drive like normal till the next oil change? Once again thanks for all the feed back, labrauer

Hey guys I have a lot of questions I need to ask for you guys. I have checked my engine (218) compression and it looks like this. #1-90 lbs, #2-90 lbs, #3-70 lbs, #4-90 lbs, #5-80 lbs, and #6-80 lbs. I am wondering if I should do an engine overhaul. I looked in the book for the right pressure for the cylinders and found out that it should be 105lbs. I can hear a popping noise coming from the exhaust pipe in the back of the car. I have heard this noise for some time now but just got around to checking the compression. Hearing this popping noise I would think that I have a valve that is not sealing or something like that. There is no smoke coming from exhaust at all when car starts or ideals or even on acceleration. The engine tends to run a little sluggish even after I rebuilt the carburetor, put in new points and condenser, timed the engine. Question 1. I have an overdrive transmission I am putting in the car too so if I get the suggestion to overhaul the engine should I take the engine and transmission out together and what needs to be removed in order to remove both at the same time. Question 2. How expensive is it now days to overhaul these flathead engines in the around ballpark idea area? Question 3. What advantage is it to have the engine bored 20 to 60 thousands oversized and is there any advantage at all to doing this? Question 4. Is it any advantage to get a higher cam and crank for these flatheads and will it make it perform better or just make the engine sound mean? Question 5. Where can I find all the parts to do this overhaul including gasket sets, pistons, rings, and every other parts I may need to do a complete overhaul if needed? Question 6. Do the engine repair places nowadays know about these old engines enough to do a good job on the specs, clearances and all to do a good job or should I trust myself enough to do it my self? I am worried that todays mechanics (at least around here) don't know about these old engines as I wanted a few to do a brake job on the old car and they said they have never did one on such an old car so I used the book and did it myself. I know this is a long thread and I will appreciate any comments, suggestions pros and cons from many of you, thanks in advance.

Heck I thought it was a turtle shell at least that is what my dad always called it but he was a bit old fashion and in the old days that's all I have ever heard it called. Now I know better.

​I have a quick question about the door latch remote control assembly for all you gurus out there. I am in need of an exploded view of the latch control assembly so I can figure out where the springs go and how they hook up to the meckinsums in the lock. I have a broken spring that fell out and don't know where it goes. Pic is attached to see what I am talking about. Oh it is on a 48 Plymouth coupe. I don't know if the latch assemblies are all the same for the coupes and sedans or not please fill me in on acknowledgement. Thanks in advance, Labrauer