deathbound

Very nice work you're doing, wish I had that kind of time to spend on mine. One question, why didn't you paint the firewall when everything was out, just curious?

Now I see what you're talking about, I've also seen posts where you have to scroll sideways also to get everything. Your pics fit my monitor horizontally, but not vertically.

Sounds like you had good results with your stock m/c if you ran it so long. If my stock m/c feels inadequate & after I've checked all other possible problems, I will most likely switch to a dual reservoir m/c. Good read on you thread, thanks for that link, though I would've used the search function had you not included it. EDIT:Just realized I should have multi-quoted my responses.

I will be using 2# residual valves (1 for each line coming out of the distribution block) on the discs, 10# residual valve on the drums. I will see how this set-up works first, then decide if I need a proportioning valve.

Routine maintenance (checking fluid levels) should alleviate any low fluid conditions from brake pad wear. Also, this isn't a daily driver, a couple thousand miles a year at best, so wear should be minimal. I know a dual reservoir is better, I will see how the stock single m/c works-cautiously at first. As far as a leak, whether it's a caliper or wheel cylinder depends on the severity-a bad leak in either will drain any reservoir fast. Thanks for your input.

Exactly what I was thinking, once the system is full & pressurized, it's just a matter of compressing what's in the lines. If more fluid is needed-as long as the m/c is full-the piston won't require more than the m/c's capacity. I do see the point if the front or rear fails using a single vs. dual reservoir m/c. If anybody using a stock m/c with front disc/rear drum wants to chime in, please do.

Didn't take it as you being a smart ***, just curious. The instructions said the stock m/c will work & I will check, double check, triple check, etc on short/slow around the neighborhood trips til I'm completely satisfied EVERYTHING is working as it should. If I feel uncomfortable about anything, I will then convert to a dual reservoir m/c or add a remote reservoir. Thanks for the input & concern. EDIT:Just read my post & it automatically substituted *** for a$$, except I used ss's instead of $$'s. Must be filtered?

The mounting bracket has a hole on each side, above & below each hole, it tells you where each wire goes according to the terminal layout on the switch....ie: in the pic, above the hole on the right refers to the term on the top right, below the hole on the right refers to the term on the bottom right, & so on. Hope this helps. May need a magnifying glass to make out the marks on the bracket-sometimes they are stamped lightly.

Not completely finished yet, but yes, I will be using the stock m/c. Why do you ask, can you tell me why this may not work?

Thanks for the info, I'm not the most computer savvy & wondered how it was done. Will try a test post in the near future. Also, what's the difference between "stacked" & "strung together"? The only difference I notice is the stacked is narrower than the strung together. What am I missing?

I've heard of photobucket, never really looked into it though, guess I will now. Thanks.

2# for the front discs, 10# for the rear drums.

Thought I would update this thread-no pics @this time-using my 10 y.o. daughters computer-mine (with all my pics) took a crap-should get it back soon. Anyways, I have since rebuilt the steering box...reused the bearings/races, steering gear tube/worm assembly-all looked good, installed a new steering gear shaft/roller assembly with new bushings & honed to size, new oil seal, new & homemade gaskets to achieve correct free-play with the tube/worm assembly & added a homemade shim that was not present & required for the shaft/roller assembly to achieve the correct movement of the shaft without binding on the worm gear. I will use gear oil. New tie rods & drag link end, original steering arm installed. Also, installed the m/c, bent/installed all new hard lines for the front & rear brakes-so far to the rubber hose that connects to the "tee" & hard lines on the rear axle housing-soon to be replaced also. (Will check the rear brakes when the front is done-front is on jack stands & only have one pair & no room behind the car to lift it & do the rear yet.)

How do some post large pictures in their post with descriptions above or below each picture? Thinking of the type you don't have to click on to view each one.

PICS????

Sorry to hear about this, hope you have an uneventful recovery & therapy. Your age is on your side-you should heal quicker. Been riding "a few" years & laid it down a few times with only road rash (luckily)-once to avoid a "cage" that pulled in front of me. Good luck.

Just Googled it, here's their site, if anybody's interested.... http://www.garysupullit.com/

Not saying it's fake, BUT, the "MoPaR" on the compass looks like my 7 year old colored it in or looks altered. Also, aren't the NOS instruction sheets from the 30's-50's usually light brown from age(looks like a new copy & not stated as such)? Either way-hard justify @$750......

At least you realized before it was too late. Very nice build!

85%...(41 out of 48)-not too bad considering they were all before my time.

Anybody have any comments on this, I was wondering the same thing.

This may be a stupid question, but it lists Dodge, Plymouth 6 281 (218???) Engine 1934-54 230 Engine (except Canadian built) 1949-59......does this include my 1938 Plymouth 201 c.i.?

Here's a link to it:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfY_BKyWEfo

These are what you need to correct the pinion angle. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Pinion-Angle-Shims/?keyword=pinion+angle+shims

The 2nd pic looks like it's a straight up gasser!