deathbound

While I'm waiting for the "correct" hub puller for the rear drums & before I remove the rivets as a last resort, thought I would drop the gas tank. This is what I found (part of the cork float) after draining the fuel thru the filler neck. By dtw62hd at 2011-12-29 This confirms my thoughts why the fuel gauge never worked. I guess I'm adding a sending unit to my list. There was also a lot of rust in the bottom of the tank....time to clean the inside & paint the outside while I'm at it.

I don't recall if the axle had a bushing or not (the new pin did not have any abnormal movement when I installed it in the axle). There is a roller bearing between the spindle & the top of the axle, also, a shim between the spindle & the bottom of the axle. The rebuild kit had 2 bushings & 2 needle bearings(besides the shims, roller bearings, pins, etc.)-the bushings for the bottom of the spindles, needle bearings for the top of the spindles. Though this is for a 38 Ply Coupe, just my experience.

Don't know about the trucks, but my coupe had a shim, I believe between the spindle & lower side of the tube axle.

Thanks Rich, needed confirmation. Found a 37-38 Dodge Coupe trunk lid-my 38 Plymouth Coupe trunk lid is rotted out along the entire bottom & is flimsy. I really need to get a Hollander Interchange book.

Thanks, thought so, just wanted confirmation.

A picture is worth a 1000 words....didn't realize the hub was threaded-I thought the drum was threaded & riveted to the hub. I feel a lot better about having to remove the rivets if it comes to that. Is the locating pin part of the drum or act as a 5th rivet & needs to be removed also? Thanks

Looks like I may be in the same boat. I tried the puller I fabbed first-the center bolt rests on the axle & I tightened the 5 bolts in a star pattern: By dtw62hd at 2011-12-26 that didn't work, next tried the puller I rented (free) from O'Reilly: By dtw62hd at 2011-12-26 that's not working either. I still want to locate & try the puller most everybody recommends, where you use a "beater" on the center bolt. Robert, how did you reattach the drums to the hub? I was thinking the rivet holes could be tapped, but you'd have to have the hub off to bolt it to the drum from inside thru the hub flange....right????

I don't have a Hollander's yet.........will a 37-38 Dodge Coupe trunk lid fit a 38 Plymouth Coupe? If not, what does it show for a 38 Plymouth Coupe as an interchange for the trunk lid, if anything? Thanks in advance.

Everything on the front of the car is pretty much done, moving to the rear. Steering feels nice & tight(tight in a good way) with virtually NO play(at least with the front end in the air). I've searched & read quite a few threads re:removing rear brake drums, now it's my turn. I'm going to remove or should I say "try" to remove my rear brake drums. I had some scrap 1/2" thick steel plate & attempted to make a puller by burning a hole in the center for the center bolt that pushes on the axle & burned 5 holes-1 for each lug hole. I'm using (5) 1/2"x20 grade 8 bolts thru the plate into each lug hole & a 1/2"x20 grade 8 for the center bolt. I snapped the center bolt, so, I switched to a 5/8" center bolt, didn't break, but no luck. I'm going to check the Autozone, O'Reiley's(free rental) & NAPA to see what they have in the way of pullers. I'm thinking they're going to have one like the 1st pic, though I know I need one like the 2nd or 3rd pics. If there's anybody in the Southern California area that has one to loan, let me know. Thanks

If possible, permanently reinforce the underside of the hood in 2 or 3 places-spanning side to side to make it rigid first, then as mentioned, slowly weld small sections of the seam at a time, allowing time to cool before welding more. You may have to tack the seam in a few spots to retain the original shape, then remove the hood to measure/fab the underside braces. This should make the hood more rigid & make the filler less likely to crack. Keep us posted with progress pics. Good Luck.

Here's one on ebay, just for reference:http://www.ebay.com/itm/290600767031?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I was searching the main page "links" & came across this since there were conflicting posts re:the width of the center stripe. Found on http://www.oldmopar.com/ The following is from the Judging guide posted on the POC website reference section Wheels Fifteen (15) inch wheels were not used on 1946 models. Sixteen (16) inch used until late 1947, À 15” thereafter. Wheels painted body color and striped on P-15-C. Black paint on P-15-S. Prior to September, 1947 wheels were always painted body color and striped. From this point on cars equipped with whitewall insert trim rings were painted Ecosheen (gray) on Detroit and Evansville built cars (to identify production check the body number tag, Detroit cars will not be coded, Evansville built have the letter E following the body code number and Los Angeles has the letters LA following the three digit body code). Los Angeles built cars with whitewall inserts had the wheels painted black, regardless of body color. Cars with stainless steel inserts were still painted body color at all factories. Very late 1947 and all 1948 P15s used 15" wheels. Beginning serial numbers for identification are as follows: Detroit Special Deluxe 11851594 Deluxe 15251917 Los Angeles Spec. Deluxe 25036148 Deluxe 26010991 Evansville Spec. Deluxe 20234249 Deluxe 22063548 Also here is information on the proper placement of the strips which I believe is correct From the point where the spider is welded to the rim, down 1 & 1/4 inches. First ring is 1/16 inch wide, middle ring is 1/4" wide, bottom ring is 1/16" wide. 1/16 inches between the rings. The following information on wheel stripes for the P15 is from a article in the Plymouth Bulletin #180 Car Color Wheel Stripe Black Straw Marine Blue Flake white Chevron Blue Gold Bronze Balfour Green Gold Bronze Kenwood Green Gold Bronze Batt. Beige Straw Airway Gray Vermillion Plymouth Gunmetal Flake White Cruiser Maroon Gold Bronze Sumac Red Gold Bronze Charlotte Ivory Gold Bronze

Here's a link to my front end, steering rebuild & front disc brake conversion: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=29587. There are some before pics of the steering box, I will post some completed pics as soon as I can. I found the steering sector shaft on ebay for around $75 shipped. It came with bushings, found the shaft oil seal @ Valley Vintage Auto Parts(which I also got my mc rebuild kit, tie rod/drag link ends from). Bushings needed to be honed to size(used a mc hone). Made both cover gaskets using the old one's as templates. PM/email me if you need any additional info or pics.

I just rebuilt my steering box. I went to NAPA to get the 90w gear oil. Most of the gear oil they stock is GL-5, which I found out is for the newer, sharper style gears. The counter guy had to order me a quart of 85w-90w GL-4, which he said is for the older cars. Also, the service manual calls for 8oz. I have the front end up on jack stands, which I think makes the steering box a little closer to being level, as far as the filler hole is concerned, anyway, I started with a new qt of gear oil & when I get about 6oz in, it started to overflow. Other than that, no leaks with new gaskets made from gasket material & a little gasket sealer.

On the main page....here:http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/linksframeset.html....scroll down to brakes.

I was afraid I'd get a response like that, just didn't expect it so quick.

Found this recently, a lot of good info. http://sites.google.com/site/identifyinginstrumentpanels/home

What size, besides 16"? I may be interested, depending on $$ & your location, if shipping isn't too pricey.

Robert, you're 38's should have needle bearings all ready-at least the upper part of the spindle. I recently did the king pins on my 38 & it had needle bearings in the upper & bronze bushings in the lower part of the spindle. The replacement kit had 2 needle bearings & 2 bronze bushings-sorry, don't have pics of it apart. Just to confirm, here's a set on ebay...http://www.ebay.com/itm/1938-Dodge-Plymouth-King-Pin-Set-830649-/190561874366?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5e5f71be...the needle bearings are wrapped up-zoom in & you can see "Torrington Needle Bearing" like was mentioned previously. The linked set is WAY overpriced (I paid around $40 for my set) I think 34-37 had bronze lower & upper. Hope this helps.

QUOTE:Ok weall have heard of the various funny words we alhave give the various car manufacturers. Ford found on road dead Chevy - Change evey Year Fiat: fix it again tony MoPar; More ofton Parts are required So add your two cents to the meaning of the various car makers Rich Hartung :QUOTE FORD...Fix Or Repair Daily

Plumbed the residual valves for the front discs (2#) & rear drums(10#). Here are a few pics. Distribution block with new hard lines & residual valves, also, rebuilt steering box installed. By dtw62hd at 2011-12-08 2-2# residual valves-1 for each front wheel: By dtw62hd at 2011-12-08 1-10# residual valve for the rear wheels: By dtw62hd at 2011-12-08

Lookin good, I especially like what I see in the 3rd pic....BOTH of 'em.

Let me know if you decide to sell it, I may be interested, depending on size/specs.

I'll jump in this nearly 3 year old thread, since it was here before I joined. Started working in a warehouse shipping/receiving, then welding in a truck body fab shop, then got into swimming pool construction, then retail sales, then a commercial hard hat diver, now a union iron worker-this & the previous by far the most exciting. Went from working below sea level to way above sea level-welding at both levels.

Went to the Bo Huff Thank You Tour...link here:http://rockabilly66.com/. Saw A LOT of nice customs, but mixed in were a couple Dodge's; a 1939 5 window & a 1947 3 window. The '39 looked like it was very original, the 47 looked like a very nice recent "re-build/restoration". Would've shot more pics, but forgot my camera & after I shot these, my phone memory was full & too busy to start deleting pics to take more. Also, dragged my 7 y.o. son with me & all he wanted to do was go next door to the indoor cart track. Enjoy. EDIT:For some reason, I can't add the other 2 pics as thumbnails. Tried uploading the same as the first, but they only come up as attached images. Sorry so small.