martybose

Shouldn't be any problem at all, providing you can find some lefthand threaded ones! Marty, using pressed in studs ...............

Maybe if you used liquid nitrogen and a big torch. These aren't like wheel bearings where you need them to be snug; you really don't want these to be able to get loose. Marty

Yeah, I'd love to have one. I read the thread a while ago about Dodge Panhard rods, I wonder if any would fit my car? Marty

I'm running Wheel Vintique 6x15's on the front and 7x15's on the back, using BFG Radial TA's 215/60x15 frnt and 235/60x15 rear. I did have to bend my frontsteering arms to clear in front, and I am running a 1/4" spacer in the rear. I also converted to long wheel studs to eliminate concerns about wheel bolt engagement. With dropped spindles in front and a 1-1/2" lowering block in the rear, clearances are very tight, and lightly rub occasionally in right hand turns. Marty

When I assembled my motor I used some thread sealer that I had in my toolbox from a previous project, and frankly it didn't work. I'm running Evans NPG+, which makes it more inclined to leak anyway, and boy it does! Currently it is leaking from about 1/3 of the head studs, two of the waterpump bolts, and from the thermostat housing. I can only imagine how bad it would be if I had put a pressurized radiator cap on it. My winter project this year is to pull the head and intake manifold off and get them polished, and I'd sure like to clean up all of the bolts and studs and seal them up for good when I reassemble it. So, what the the consensus of the best thread sealer to use? Marty

You have to put the photos on a server that is accessable, then instead of the paperclip you use the icon next to it (mountain against a yellow background) to list the URL to your photo. This inserts the photo link into the text, and you can insert links as often as you want. Marty

When I blew the gasket between 5 and 6 a few years ago, it did not get into either the water or the oil. On the other hand, it had ZERO compression in both cylinders, which makes me suspicious of a head gasket diagnosis when you still have some compression showing. Marty

I wonder how they sealed the block area where the exhaust valve used to be from the combustion chamber? I'm assuming that they used a pushrod from the exhaust lifter to a rocker to actuate the intake valve on the other side of the head. Marty

In a word, NO. but you can buy an alternator from someplace like the 5th Avenue Garage (785) 632-3450, where they can supply you with a mounting kit and the correct pulley. Not cheap, but it will work! Marty

Unfortunately, your link requires an authenticated login and password ..... Marty

That does it! After looking at your engine compartment, I am going to establish this year's winter project as taking my head, intake manifold, air cleaner and alternator off and getting them fully polished! They were all polished to some extent, but have sort of faded in recent years. Marty

I had previously had #00 cables made up for the battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter cables. When I had to make up a new ground cable, I started out with a #00 cable to the starter bolt which also had a #4 pigtail that is bolted to the body. There is also a separate #4 pigtail that goes from the same starter bolt to the clutch pivot bolt on the frame. I think I can safely say that my 47 is well grounded! Marty

Yes, all of my linkages are anodized aluminum on stainless shafts. I get them from http://www.kinsler.com, which has a lot of different linkage pieces. Not cheap, but very high quality. Marty

Ed, When you publish a link to a web location, nothing is on the forum site; when you open the thread, it goes out to the website you specified and loads the picture on your computer. So it bypasses the forum limitations altogether! Marty

How many of you are running these same plugs in your aluminum heads? If your aluminum heads are like my Edmunds head, you've got the wrong plugs! The stock head uses a 3/8" reach plug; my Edmunds is designed for a 1/2" reach plug. I used an Autolite 306 in mine for some time, and it seemed to be okay, until one day that I had the head off and actually looked at the installed plugs, and saw unused threads in the head. I now run an Autolite AP 425, which is an relatively expensive 1/2" reach plug. I ran it at .032" gap with the stock ignition, and .060" with my Langdon HEI. According to the Autolite engineers, it is a slightly colder iridium plug than a 306. Highly recommended! Marty

Okay, here's my pictures of a polished Offy and a later model Edmunds (the picture Other Norm posted was an early model Edmunds, and IMHO not near as nice as the later ones!) How do you post thumbnails here? I haven't figured it out yet! Marty

I'm sure I do, but it will be a couple of days before I can find them. Marty

I can't really give you a straight answer. I noticed a huge difference in performance/driveability, but I had changed from an Offy with Stromberg 97's to an Edmunds with Carter-Webers. The Carter-Webers definitely work better than the 97's, so I can't really tell how much improvement should be attributed to the manifold change. Marty

I believe the Edmunds name is owned by Vintage Speed, but the last I heard he wasn't interested in making manifolds. Incidentally, I would argue that an Edmunds is a better manifold than an Offy. It has far better shaped runners (no right angle turns in the air flow) and has a far superior hot water heating system. The only "downside" is that it is substantially taller, which isn't really an issue with our cars. Plus it looks much better than an Offy when it is polished! Marty, who replaced an Offy with an Edmunds ........

As I have previously mentioned, my 230 block was in exactly the same condition. We used an ultrasonic tester taking measurements at top, center and bottom of every bore with a measurement every 90 degrees at each height. That's 72 measurements, and found that it would take an .080" overbore easily. We actually wound up investigating modern ring materials, and chose a metric ring set used in Toyotas, then had flathead pistons custom made to use them. Wound up as .072" over, 247 ci engine. Marty

Be very careful about what hoses you use with this. I found out that the nice red fuel lines I tried were actually FDA-approved for food stuff instead of being for gasoline. That explains why they were ballooning and leaking like sieves at the clamping points. I chased leaks for two weeks, then threw them away and made up some AN lines using something meant for fuel; no leaks since! Marty

You will probably still want to put a sealer of some sort (I prefer Gasgacinch, YMMV) on the copper side of the gasket. If the machined surface is good you should not need any on the Teflon (blue) side. And make darn sure that every bolt that goes into either the head or the block is well sealed up with something like a pipe thread sealing paste, as they will leak otherwise! That includes the waterpump bolts (been there, done that .......) Marty

My problem was that too many of us were in college in California, so it didn't matter what your draft status was. I was taking 18 units at a Junior College when the draft board invited me to come in for a physical exam; I decided that it was a good time to join the Navy Reserve! I ultimately spent two years on active duty, including one deployment to Yankee Station, but never got within 40 miles of anyone shooting anything, so mission accomplished. Marty