martybose

Homebrewer, If you click on my name at the top of this reply and select my public profile, you will see a picture of my 47 with dropped spindles in front, stock springs in back, and 60 series 15 inch tires all around. Marty

You should be happy; I paid $100 for mine! I actually had to rotate the mirrors to be towards the car, otherwise I couldn't see them through the metal guides on the door windows. Marty

I tried several clip-on style mirrors on the front edge of the door, none of them worked well for me. I then had a set of clip-ons that mounted on the top of the door; they worked fine, except I could never remember to look up to find them (old age I guess!). I finally switched to a set of round swan neck mirrors bolted in the stock location, and can see both sides fine now. Now if someone would make a swan neck with rectangular mirrors, I'd really be set ..... Marty

Mine isn't, but then I've got to wonder how many guys named Marty there are here? Marty:cool:

If you need Holley 94 parts, you might look at http://www.vintagespeed.com; he has lots of parts for those carbs. Marty

Must have been fun cranking that sucker over by hand! Marty

The advantage of 6V negative ground was simply that it was easier to make them from a 12V alternator than 6V positive ground! If you radio has an original vibrator, it will work fine with 6V negative ground; if it is a newer electronic one, it won't. My working fine when it was 6V negative ground. Marty

I'm using an 47 starter converted to 12V; if memory serves, the guy who built it said that the coils came from a Studebaker starter. Marty

I think the last time this came up the person who had a dual belt pulley had made it themselves by welding a second pulley to the first one. Marty

If this is the product I'm thinking of, the catch for us would be the fact that it runs off of a power steering pump, which MY car sure doesn't have! Marty

You must have a better hardware store nearby than I do; I've never seen a brass tapered and slotted nut at any of the ones near me! Marty

James, Is the ECI master cylinder mount a bolt-in piece, or does it require welding to the frame? Marty

I bought my 47 as a bone stocker with the intention of putting a V-8/auto in it. Got seduced by the flathead, so built it as a 50's hotrod, with Edmunds manifold and head, cast iron headers, etc. I'm not averse to updating, with a 12V system with alternator. I'm currently about to install a Langdon HEI distributor. I've currently got an original 5K RPM Sun electric tach, but it isn't very accurate, so I'm working on parts to install a vintage 5K RPM Stewart-Warner mechanical tach. Next on the agenda; front disk brakes! Marty

I'd be particularly interested in what it took to mount the ECI master cylinder setup; is it a bolt-in unit, weld-in, something else? How well does it fit? Etc, etc. Marty

That used to be a fun track. Back in the early 70's I worked on a 10 second Barracuda bracket racer, and we would run Vacaville on Friday nights, Champion Raceway in South San Francisco on Saturday nights, and Fremont Dragstip on Sunday. They're all long shut down now. You can still see parts of Fremont, it's buried under a bunch of concrete rubble. Marty

I don't even want to think about going back to figure out how much I have in mine! Marty

If you are removing the choke plates, make sure that you also remove the choke idle screw as well; it's the one on the long arm that goes into the choke housing. That way the main idle screw will actually control the idle! Marty

PS Just noticed that the photo I posted was an old one with the nice, period-correct clear red fuel lines, which I got from Vintage Speed. WARNING; DO NOT USE THESE HOSES!!!!! They didn't get along with modern gas at all. They swelled up and leaked at every fitting, and after 3 weeks of trying to get them to seal I gave up, threw them away and switched to AN fittings with a modern fuel hose. No leaks since. Marty

it's interesting that while they moved the instruments to the right side for the right hand drive cars, they didn't change the radio location; it's still on the left side of the center panel, with the clock and ash tray still on the right. Marty

Langdon has the best price for the adapters, and also has a linkage kit that mounts outboard of the carbs, and, if memory serves, requires a cable throttle. I wanted mine inboard with a throttle rod, so I built my own (at significant expense!). My throttle setup won't work on most cars unless you are using a tall manifold like the Edmunds; I would have used the Langdon setup if I had been putting the carbs on my Offenhauser manifold. The short throw and stiff return springs are not a problem, since you need to increase the ratio to match the throw of our throttle pedal anyway. The electric chokes require a constant, ignition-switched supply with 14 gauge wire. I used them simply because I didn't see an elegant way to keep the choke butterflys open all of the time. I never had chokes on my dual Stromberg setup, and it started just fine. Marty

Don, The pillow blocks and throttle arms came from Kinsler Fuel Injection, www.kinsler.com, the pivot shaft and linkage rods are just a stainless rods that I got from McMaster Carr at www.mcmaster.com (an incredible tools and parts source!), most of the linkage rod ends came from Vintage Speed www.vintagespeed.com, and believe it or not, the black powdercoated piece that mounts the pillow blocks started out as an aluminum extrusion for a cheap 24" construction level at Lowes! As they say, necessity is the mother of invention! Marty

Don, I don't know how three of these will work, but I've got a pair of them on my Edmunds manifold, and they work great! There are two issues you will find with them, one obvious, one not so. The obvious one will be the throttle linkage, which works in the opposite direction from stock and has much less throw. The less obvious and more difficult one will be the connection for the electric choke; unless you can space the carbs 8 inches or more apart, the electrical connector will (1) hit the carb next to it, and (2) be impossible to connect a wire to it. I actually widened the top and bottom holes on my Langdon adapters and rotated both of my carbs slightly to get the front carb connection to clear the back carb. Marty

By definition, pure sodium is dangerous, but you have to ask yourself "What is the likelihood of the valve stem breaking, or of me getting the urge to cut into the valves or throw them in a fire?" I have never heard of anyone having any problems caused by sodium-cooled valves, which we have been using in engines for over 30 years. Note that the government statement doesn't say anything about properly using the valves, it just mentions properly disposing of them (presumably after use). Personally, I'd be more concerned about the probability of blowing oneself up while working on an "empty" gas tank. Marty

I don't run an additive, but I do use 91 octane gas, because my mechanic recommended it, saying that flatheads tend to be prone to detonation at higher compression (Mine's about 9 to 1). Marty

I think it depends on whether you are north or south of the equator! Marty