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martybose

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Everything posted by martybose

  1. Kind of sounds like an urban legend to me. These days, if you tried to drop a tanker hose in the water and were spotted doing it, the fines would be huge. Working in a medium-sized shipyard, I can tell you that we go to extremes to make sure that nothing gets into the water, and any hoses used for fuel transfers have to be rigorously recertified every couple of years. Marty
  2. Well, you won't be able to use a 12V to 6V converter, because the amperage requirements are way higher than any rational convertor can handle, plus there is actually two separate OD requirements; one for shifting, another lower amperage for holding. 5th Ave. Garage tried for a couple of years to make a 12V->6V converter just for this application, and gave up. I've read several versions about whether 12V OD components can be installed on a 6V OD, but most people say no due to shaft length differences. I know 5th Avenue now rewinds 6V solenoids to 12V configuration, but the last time I checked it was $75 and a 8 week backlog. At least a number of people have come up with 12V relays to replace the rare 6V originals; the kickdown switch and governors don't care about voltage. Marty, patiently researching how to hook up my OD in a 12V car ..........
  3. Buy the other motor, install it in your car and have fun driving it. Continue building your 230 at a leisurely pace, secure in the knowledge that you don't have to complete the new motor to get the car running. Marty
  4. Maybe, maybe not. Most of the motorhome 440's have a unique set of heads and waterpump that is not the same as car engines. Marty
  5. The starter isn't because it is not a permanent magnet motor. It uses coils in both the rotor and the stator, and when the polarity of both of them are reversed, it still turns in the same direction. Both the heater fan motor and the electric wiper motor would run backwards, and would need to have the leads switched, as would the amp meter. Marty
  6. The pictures are the same driveshaft that I bought on eBay for $90 + shipping about 10 years ago. Arived in a Mopar box, and is still going strong today! Marty
  7. I had the guards on my 47 for a long time, then took them off on a whim and decided that I liked my car better that way. Maybe it's a light color versus dark color thing; for some reason I think they look better on dark cars, as opposed to my beige one. Marty
  8. You forgot my favorite eBay one: Rare!! I think it's worth at least twice as much as anyone else's identical part! Marty
  9. Let me know if you don't find some; someplace out in my garage there should be a full set of wheel bolts that I bought just before i decided to change to wheel studs because of a wheel spacer issue on my car. Marty
  10. If memory serves, doesn't the ECI web site say that you have to specify what transmission you are using when you order the master cylinder conversion kit? Marty
  11. The dash clocks only use the battery to wind the spring occasionally, so disconnecting the battery wouldn't affect the time unless the spring coincidentally ran down. Marty
  12. I just happened to read an article about an aircraft packrat who used to buy old warbirds, and they mentioned that he used his 52 Suburban to haul everything. There was a picture of it with a flatbed trailer that had a pair of B-25 radial engines on it! The article said he had to go down to first gear going up big hills, but he always made it home. Marty
  13. I would think a key question is whether he is looking for one in England or Europe, or if he is looking for one in the USA! Marty
  14. Yeah, I think that's one of their recent "improvements". Marty
  15. As a happy user of Technostalgia's LED taillights for my 47 Plymouth, I wrote an email to them recently to find out if they had decided about making LED variants of either the front parking lights or the center rear stoplight assemblies. I got a reply back saying that they were working on both of them, and they should be out in the Thanksgiving timeframe. Given that I have been trying to find a nice looking center stoplight housing for 5 or 6 years without success, I can't tell you how I am looking forward to these! www.cool-leds.com Yeah, I did find some nice restored original ones, but they were WAY too expensive for this kid! Marty
  16. No, you're not an idiot, you're just like the rest of us; forgetting where the neat (and perfectly logical!) place is that you put all of the good stuff in preparation for the next step of the metamorphosis. Darn, growing old is annoying! Marty, been there, done that ...........
  17. I used a Rhode Island complete setup on my 47. Not cheap, but good quality. They are also willing to make custom changes for you; I added turn signal wiring, upped the wire gauge and added a relay to the headlight circuits so I could run 6V halogens, and a bunch of other little stuff. Marty
  18. You have to use a disk brake setup with the Fatman dropped spindles. I made them work with stock drums, and wouldn't do it again if I had the choice! Marty
  19. My 47 is a Plymouth Business Coupe. The only photos I have right now are older ones before I put the rear lowering blocks in; still had a bit of a rake then! I simply emailed the address that I listed and discussed it with him; he asked for some dimensions, I checked them. The details I listed were what I wound up ordering for my Plymouth. Marty
  20. You've got to be a little careful when talking about carbs and Langdon's because there are two different ones! There are Holley-Webers and there are Carter-Webers. Both are actually great carbs, and you will find people on this forum that have used one or the other with equal success. The pictures that Don posted are actually Carter-Webers (just like the ones that I bought from Langdon). There are slight differences in the overall size, a little difference in linkages, and a different base for the air cleaner. Make sure you know which one you're talking about! Marty
  21. Don, Yes I did try the ported vacuum; caused my motor to ping like crazy when accelerating because I was getting too much advance. Manifold vacuum worked much better, since it reduces advance when you hit the throttle! jd52cranbrook, I'm running a solid state Facet electric pump. The picture is slightly misleading, as I couldn't get the red fuel lines to seal, so switched to AN fuel hoses. Less sexy, but don't leak! I don't have an automatic shutoff installed right now, but have thought about it. splat1955, I bought my stuff from Phillips almost 10 years ago, and his site was under construction then! I haven't been in touch with him in years. There is at least one other vender who is making reproductions of the Fenton cast iron headers, I'll have to see if I can remember who it is! Marty
  22. I agree about not using the lock washers. As for the washers, you could always buy the hardened and ground washers that ARP sells for their head stud kits; they will sell you anything you want individually, including the taller nuts they use. Jus don't forget that with the fine threads on the studs you need to reduce the torque spec. If memory serves, something like 55 lbs is about right. Marty
  23. Randy, My distributor is a Langdon HEI conversion, so there aren't any points at all! My suspicion is that the weights may not have a positive stop, but I haven't taken the distributor out to check it for that yet. Marty
  24. haven't a clue about the horsepower. My headers came from Phillips Performance, but I'm not sure he is still making them. There's a picture of my engine in this thread http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=2769 posting #19. Marty
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