martybose
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Everything posted by martybose
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I've read about these motors, but never seen one. Did they actually have 5 separate 6 cylinder blocks connected to a single casting for the output, or did they make one insanely complicated casting for the whole deal? Marty
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Need vacuum windshield wiper info for 47 Plymouth.
martybose replied to central52's topic in P15-D24 Forum
if you add a vacuum reservoir with a check valve you can improve the operation of vacuum wipers considerably. Most cars have such a tank connected to the power brake booster, or there are commercial aftermarket tanks. Marty -
While you are correct that a lot of old boats had our flatheads in them, my advice would be to stay away from them. A lot of boat motors from that era use raw water cooling, and if someone didn't work at maintaining the galvanic zincs the blocks will most likely be extremely corroded internally. Marty
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Here's a couple of photos. I was pleased that they made the effort to put the ship on the stoplight lens. and one of the back end of my Business Coupe with the full complement of Technostalgia stuff Marty
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Shouldn't be any more confusion than having it the only stoplight on the back of the car. With the rapid-fire feature, there won't be much doubt about when it is supposed to be a stoplight. If you have both the Technostalgia stop and tail lights, all of them can be both tail lights and stoplights (as well as the tail lights being turn signals!). Marty
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Technostalgia has started shipping their LED stoplight assembly. I was surprised when I read the instructions that it incorporates exactly the same circuit as their LED taillights, so the center stoplight can be a taillight as well as being a rapid-fire stoplight. Marty
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Not really. He just stated that there was a Studebaker 12V starter that used the same frame as the small frame 6V P15 starter. It had a different nose casting, but you don't need it anyway. He did not give me any other specifics. Marty
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Maybe there's $200K of gold stored inside? Marty
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I can't help with a part number, but the old guy that built mine used a small housing 6V starter and installed the guts out of a 12V Studebaker in it. Works great! Marty PS: Wow, I hadn't noticed that I was getting into the Guru category this soon! How's the air up this high, guys?
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NNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! Do not attempt to use Fatman dropped spindles with drum brakes! I did that on my car, and it increased the turning radius so much I couldn't get out of the driveway! I had to grind away portions of the brake backing plates to make the car driveable, and the turning radius is still much larger than stock. Not recommended!!!!!! Marty
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Niel, There was a reference in an earlier post about revving the engine up some to check the centrifugal advance, and in that case there would be some vacuum in the ported vacuum source. You are of course correct if he is just checking initial advance. Marty
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I believe that you also want to have the distributor vacuum line disconnected and plugged when you are checking timing. Marty
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I'm not SURE, but there isn't any way an internal bypass would even work without the extra machining in the block and a connection from the thermostat area to use it! There might be bumpless heads that do this for all I know. Marty
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Are you running ported vacuum or manifold vacuum? I agree with Shel; 3 degrees ATDC is just wrong!! On my 230 with a mini-HEI I run 4 degrees BTDC with manifold vacuum and the counterweights tie-wrapped so there is no centrifugal advance. Before I tie-wrapped the counterweights I would start heating up at highway speeds due to too much total advance. Marty
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The only difference in the backing plate is one additional small hole, which mates up to a hole on the front of the block, which has a right angle passage to the front edge of the head surface, where it mates up with a passage in the head. In the small block motors (23" 218 and 230) only the later blocks are set up for internal bypass, so make sure that you have both the block and head for an internal bypass! Marty
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The other good penetrating oil is any of the Kroil products, available from http://www.kanolabs.com
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I'm pretty sure that the proper name is Tinnerman nuts. Marty
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Welcome aboard! You'll find that we do have an interesting bunch of folks here, including a surprising number of international members. From what I've gathered here in the past, the right hand drive makes most of the commercially available headers for the 230 unusable due to steering column interference. But if you are going to the trouble of making up a dual carb intake and splitting the exhaust, you might want to see about getting a reground camshaft to perk it up a little farther. Looks like a nice car; keep up the good work! Marty
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Do NOT mess with the mixture screws; all you will do is mess up the idle mixture. I think Don is correct; did you check for full throttle opening? The other detail is that you are running a carb that was meant for a 2 liter motor on a 3.7 liter motor; maybe that is why a pair of them work so well. Marty
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Yeah, I could get them out that way; the problem I had was getting them back in! Marty
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The standard G-shaped compressor will work fine for installing/removing the valve keepers, but you will probably find that the other style of compressors also make it easier to install/remove the valve springs, which get hung up on the block casting, unlike overhead valve motors. Marty
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My P15 came with a set of spotlights installed and the same antenna, although it was on the right side. The antenna interfered with the spotlight a LOT; I wound up taking the antenna off and putting a modern antenna on the driver's side on the deck between the rear window and the top of the trunk lid. Marty
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Okay, I'll try again. Right now the later 3 speed has 2nd gear very close to 1st, and a large jump from 2nd to 3rd. The early transmission has 2nd gear more evenly spaced between 1st and 3rd. So with the early tranny you will stay in 2nd gear to a higher speed, then have less of an RPM drop into 3rd. Have I confused everyone yet? Marty
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The "fast" 2nd gear is out of a 40's tranny and is lower numerically than the later ones. So there is a larger drop in RPM from 1st to 2nd, but you go faster in 2nd gear and have a lower drop in RPM going into 3rd. Most of us think the later gear is too close to 1st and too far from 3rd. Marty
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Sure, if you happen to have one; I don't! You'd still want to use a lower that TDC reading and split the difference. Actually, a positive stop would also be very accurate, assuming you could turn the motor backwards by hand. Marty