martybose

On my car I tapped the battery or the starter solenoid for power for the headlight relay and the electric fan, so whenever they come on the ammeter shows a high charge, because the alternator has stepped up to replace the power being diverted. Had to think about it a bit before it made sense to me. Marty

If it's like the rest of the Mopar's of that vintage, it will be accessable by removing the access cover you will find in the center of the trunk floor, held on by a few screws. Marty

Mine is a reprint of the October 1948 Model Series P15 Plymouth passenger car parts list, and while it lists a lot of things (a factory option pneumatic cushion?) it doesn't list an ornament light. Hood, trunk, fog and backup lights, but no ornament light. On the other hand, it also doesn't list the electric gas cap system, and I've got one of those on my car. Marty

I'd like the bracket assembly; PM sent. Marty

When I had my car at the speedo shop a long time ago, they drove it over a measured course with a counter in place of my speedo, then put in a gearbox to correct the count to be 1000/mile. Then they used a 1000 RPM bench source to fine tune my speedo to be accurate. Marty

I'd say the first thing is to pull the head and see if the head gasket is blown between #2 and #3................... Marty

There really isn't much to one of these; just a bent piece of metal holding a bulb socket at the extreme back edge of the plastic insert. I've never heard about an LED variant; was it 6V or 12V? Marty

I agree with Greg. When I installed my HEI I had to move the plug wires once to get it started, then a second time to get enough adjustment range. That said, I'd just leave the screw out if the adjuster slot and turn it a bunch and try it, if nothing turn it a bunch the other way and try again. The engine should start even with the timing way off, then put a timing light on it. Marty

The first question is whether you really need to hook it up; most people don't. If you do, the easiest way is to get water from the heater connection at the back of the head and dump it back into the water pump at the heater hose connection. Marty

That's interesting, because the only reason I knew what it was is because one of them has been sitting under the loft stairs of my engine builder's shop for a couple of years! Marty

Looks like a Mercruiser 183 ci 4 banger to me! Uses a 460 ford head. Marty

Mopar actually made a retrofit driveshaft kit with U-joints that they sold in the early 50's. I bought one on eBay, it bolted right into my 47, and I've been running it ever since. Marty

Watch out about what rubber line you run for a gas line, it may not like today's gas! I initially plumbed mine with the old-fashioned clear red fuel lines, because I liked the look. I then spent a week or two trying to stop them from leaking continuously as they swelled up, then I threw them away and switched to AN fuel lines and fittings. No problems since then. Marty

I'm in for a couple. Marty

Have you checked the connections on the back of the ammeter? Marty

I bought a tappet wrench set from McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com; it did make the adjustment easier. Marty

I buy all of my stainless hardware from Totally Stainless; they are online at www.totallystainless.com. They even have the reduced head fasteners used for our interior trim (look for Jackson undersized head trim screws). Marty

Okay, that could be the problem. I built my own linkage from scratch using paper mockups to determine the throws and initial positions, and it worked fine right from the start. I'll probably be posting a picture of my spiffed up engine tomorrow, I'll make sure the linkage is clear! Marty

I'm amazed you're having this much trouble with the Carter-Webers; I took mine out of the boxes, bolted them to the adapters and adjusted the idle speed, and they've been flawless. Marty

I found a setup meant for headlights that has 2 relays in one enclosure. I've used it in both 6V and 12V. Marty

I added a headlight relay when I upgraded to 60W halogen headlights, because both the headlight switch and the dimmer switch were getting hot. Apparently the original headlights were only 30W, and that's what the switches were designed for. I also upped the size of the wiring from the relay to the headlights. Marty

... when you stop putting on your new heater hoses to hand polish the stainless steel hose clamps. Which I did last night! Good progress being made, my newly spiffed up engine should be in running condition by tonight. I'll post a photo when I'm done. Marty

I stand corrected; thanks for the info! Marty

I'm using an original Edmunds aluminum head. After finding a couple of damaged threads, I just had all of the cylinders upgraded to Timecerts. I would suspect that your Edgy is nominally a 1/2" reach head, as I've never heard of a 7/16" reach plug. I hope that Champion is a 1/2" reach plug, because I guarantee you that the Autolite 306 is a 3/8" reach for cast iron heads. Marty

So far, after talking to both Autolite and Champion engineers, I have been unable to find a 1/2" reach or a 3/4" reach standard tip plug that is designed for a .060" plug gap for an HEI ignition. I did find a couple of different 3/4" plugs designed for large gaps, but both were extended tips. The 3/4" reach is not a problem; I just bought 0.250" sparkplug spacers, which would allow me to use a 3/4" reach plug in a 1/2" reach head. My mechanic thought the extended tip might work. So last night I was putting the top end of my motor back together, and decided to try these plugs. I installed two of the Autolites, one in #1 and the other in #6, and spun the motor over with the starter (no other plugs were in #2-5). When I pulled out #1, it looked fine, but the gap on #6 was hammered closed. I then compared the Autolites with the Champions, but the Champions were even taller than the Autolites. It appears that with a lot of effort you MIGHT be able to clock the electrodes so they missed the exhaust valves. Too much work for me, so I'm going back to my 1/2" reach AP425's, and malforming them enough to open the gap to 0.060". Looks a little funny, but it works, and the valves don't hit them. Marty