pflaming

I am really embarrassed. As you know, the covers are below the manifold, so obvious!!!!!!!!!!! Here are some numbers: (1) on the head on the clutch end: 632855-1, then toward the radiator end: 40-11. (2) on the driver's side of the block: 1484929-21, then a mark consisting of what appears to be a D on top of another D the a large "P" and below the upper part of the "P" is an inverted U. (3) on the clutch housing: 579298-6, the a "stamped plate" with fake screws is the number 10-31-51, then another isolated 6, and finally another 'icon' of a D on top of a D, then another D on top of what appears to be a square O or a square. These 'D's and etc are in a four didget square as if they were possibly a manufacturers' code or 'mark'. So now I have valve covers on the block below the manifold, and no vent holes on the clutch housing (which are possibly optional), and a bunch of numbers. I would guess the 10-31-51 is the date the block was cast. Am I making any progress?

Yes, those are the screened holes. I rechecked the rebuilt engine. It does NOT have valve covers. Will post pics tonight, need my son to help me.

When I returned to the old motor I recalled that the head was removed YEARS ago, the covers are on the head! Now for the 'vent holes' on the clutch housing. I have to reduce the size of my pictures, then will submit some. De-assembling an old vehical is quite an experience. Enjoyable, but requires a lot of patience, things do not come apart as one often thinks they do, but like a chinese puzzle, when properly oriented, the do come apart. Paul

Mike, thank you. I am doing an off frame rebuild, way beyond my ability. So I am going to continue with the steel brush then recover in some way for protection and better appearance. Is the stuff they put on truck beds a possibility. PF

Dan is "Don"!!!!!!!!!!! Short term memory loss example. Don from Tennessee. Comparing my engine and transmission housing I note two obvious differences. (1) my old engine does not have side plates to the valves and (2) the tranny housing does NOT have vent holes. What am I to learn from that? The engine blocks are the same length. Now I am confused.

I cut my tractor 'eye teeth' on D model John Deeres. Dad and two, a '38 and a '45 with starter. If we had the choice we took the '38, easier to start even without the starter. I had an older brother by two years, Dod had matching D's, plows, one-ways, 'harrows' and we always worked together. I really did not realize until lately just how large the D model was, the tires are 60 inches tall, and I was a 95# kid driving this large tractor. Dad had a lot of faith in his boys. Great memories of tilling 600 acres with my older brother, could tell lots of stories. PF

I down loaded all the pics on 'temp engine mounts', then sent a private e-mail to Dan Coatney asking some detailed questions on, radiator mount, etc. He mailed me several very, very helpful pics on how to set it all up. I write this to acknowledge his help to me and the help available by downloading various threads that apply to my next step. I purchased a rebuilt engine without hearing it run. I am not really concerned for I trust the integrity of the seller, but to put the engine together on a stand and 'debug' it outside the truck will be much easier to do. So a big public "Thank you to Dan". Paul

It is interesting that the first replies to USA's election on this forum are from non-citizens of our great country. I am 70 years old, the first time I could vote I had to choose between a Quaker and a Catholic, at least that is how I saw it then. I grew up in wheat and cattle country, i.e., far Western Nebraska. Until I graduated from High School I had seen only one black person, the shoe shine man at a barbershop in North Platte. Now that is a perfect stereotype, but it is true. In a nearby town some Japanese families (ex prison camp families from WWII) raised potatoes and hired Mexicans to do the hand tilling. That was my TOTAL exposure to non-whites. I may be quite typical for my age, WASP! I did not vote Democratic, and I have some qualms about the present scenario. My qualms do NOT involve race. My qualms involve the honesty of the American press! They are beginning to frighten me and yet we know that the power of the pen has always been stronger than the power of the sword! WHen the monarchies of the world fell, in 1750, i.e., France, Germany, Austria, Ottoman, Russian ( a few decades later) and England's King, George barely survived, the powerful forces were writers like Thomas Payne (an expatriated American) so the pen / press will always have its say. YET, it must be fair and I suspect the American press is highly suspect. In all this we can be comforted that big ships and large nations do not change very much very fast so we will survive and we will accomplish. What may have lost in personal 'comfort zones' we have probably gained more in an enlarging country awareness that all can be involved, but only if resonsiblity follows once placed in leadership roles. Yes, may God bless this country as well as others! Paul Flaming

With the engine on those 4 x 4's, were they stable enough to start the engine?

Was informed this morning that the coating on the inner fender covers is for VIABRATION reduction NOT rust protection. It is the same material that is sprayed inside the doors for the same reason. I was told that if I removed that coating, I would hear a strong "hum" caused by the viabration. Question: Is this correct and if so how is the road 'hum' controlled if the coating is removed?

Took a longer look at the fender wells after the cleaning I have done. It appears they are removeable!! If so then they could be sandblasted and painted outside the truck. Am I correct on that observation?

I am in the process of cleaning out the engine compartment. The firewall cleaned nicely. the inside fender wells are covered with a 'tar' treatment, probably an anti-rust coating. Do most people treat for rust from the bottom and paint the top? Seems that way from pictures I am looking at.

After seeing the $19.000 truck and found out one can buy radials for the original 16" rims, I have decided to keep the rims and caps.

Saw a clean, straight 58 Dodge Six for sale on a car lot today. Nothing has been cone to the truck except cleaned, painted, upholstery (no headliner). The tires were unacceptable. Asking $10,500 in the window and they had an offer of $8,200 which they accepted but fell through. Even though the truck is straight and appears to be rust free I thought $8,000 was a bit high.

Sounds like maybe a PTO setup for a dump truck, but I would think it would be on a four speed. Maybe it is a setup for a PTO farm equipment of some sort. They used pickup trucks for a lot of things years ago. I remember having to back up the truck to pull a well.

What is gained by milling the head? I would guess horse power. Does it help gas mileage? What are the down sides?

I am a former English teacher and you guys are nuts! I didn't know Dodge truck restorers spoke so much french, especially since Plymouth, Dodge, Imperial, DeSoto are all English words and we know the English and French were not the closest friends. Fun stuff though.

How could you lose interest in a car like that? Enjoy your second honeymoon.

Wonder what the van looks like at night with the lights on?

Went and checked the door to find the three bolts and found them, they are a bit apart but the only three on the inside. My door has only one 'plate' to remove. I want to save the window that is intire but can' t get it all the way down. Probably need to clean the track. I thought the passenger door did not work, but now I think it is locked, yet it does NOT unlock when opened from the inside. Is that how it is or do I have a JAMMED door mechanism. I do not have a key so cannot unlock that way just now. [No outside lock on the driver's door which conformes to earlier information found on the forum. Thank you for the directions!

How does one remove the door windows? I have the full window style.

Engine is out! Followed the steps listed several weeks ago and it came out just fine. You fellows who have done this before must at times laugh at us 'first timers'. Little things, like there is a channel on the bottom side of the floor board 'tin' so that the piece must slide forward before it can come out was not something I was aware of. Finally crawled underneith to see what was holding it in and learned something. Will get a good machanic to help me put the new engine in, but have a lot of cleaning and a new wiring harness to install first.

I am from CA. I thought a fawset was a blond.

WOW! How did you get the axle and tie rod to look so new. Did you just polish them with a steel wheel?

After my last post, Don's reply and picture came up. WOW! That picture is worhth a thousand words. Looks like I may need a new spindle and king pins also. Thank you!