pflaming

The engine I pulled has: 23" head; Plate # is T306 *star* 6II2I(star); the block number on the lower side is 326229-36; the bore is 3 1/4"; the stroke (block depth, head is off" is 3 5/8". All measurements are =/- taken with a steel tape. When I get the replacement engine free I will measure the stroke on it. Maybe even remove the head and look inside.

I am guessing it was the less expensive, i.e., smaller 218 engine because of the three on the tree. The length is 23" as is my 'replacement. The engine was driven hot & the head removed so I haven't checked the serial numbers. From what I have learned, I will measure the bore and stroke and compare.Today I tried to rotate the replacement without success, so I poured in some tranny oil and will let it set for a bit, then try again. If that doesn't work, then I will get some bulk penetrating oil and . . . I may have bought the foundation to a new coral reef.

Greg, Thank you for the insights. With four extra holes, can I still use the flywheel? Will that effect the balance? I am going to use the existing three speed transmisson and keep things simple and stock. I hope it all fits, will try to loosely bolt it all together outside of the truck.

Don, that is what I am going to do. Thankyou for the suggestion. I will look for one at Borders and continue. Thanks to all for the insights I have gained, will report back when nearly finished. Didn't mean to add confusion to this great web. Sorry! Paul

Frankie from Omaha, or is it "Soud O"? I taught in Bellevue High in the late 60 / early 70's so I know where Johnnie's, Mr. C's, Joe Tess' Fish, Stella's, and the Bohemian Cafe is/are. Thought I could trust a fellow Nebraskan, you must be an Iowa transplant. Any way, the mark is there. . .whatever it is. Saw that the Cornhuskers beat KU. That is a start. PF

The other thread was getting confusing. Now about my Dodge 230 engine. How does it compare to the '52 engine I removed, in hp, parts, matchup with transmisson, etc. Do I have a better engine if it is in good shape? The new pictures are to help in the research. The engine is 23" long.

townwagon Member, been hanging around a while... Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: WI PF, the TP 23 motor is a 1960 Dodge truck 230. How does this block / engine compare to the standard engine which I removed a few weeks ago? Looking at all parts, it appears it will fit in, but what might I expect with a four (4) hole flywheel hub and an eight (8) wheel fly wheel? Get a different fly wheel? Really appreciate the information. PF

Don I remeasured, length is 23". And tyes it is a maltese cross! So that's one good thing!!! Today is the first time I have had to really look at this engine. (1) Nice and clean behind the valve covers though some slugh in the 'oil basins' that collect the oil. I did not disturb it, need to know the proper way to clean that out without getting into the system. (2) Very dry, maybe even rusty looking in the plug holes and after removing the manifolds in the intake holes, dry and 'rusty'. The flapper in the manifold is rusted shut! (3) Need big socket and wrench to see if the engine is frozen. It is NOT supposed to be. . . should I put something in the cylinders for a few days. THis engine has been idle for around five years. Interesting project, don't have a clue how I would do this w/o this forum. PF

The engine length is 35". The number on the block up between the 1st and 2nd cylinders is TP 23 followed by what appears to be a three headed British or Scottish ax head. At the end of the 'plate' is what appears to be FPLL but they are extremely faint. I got those letters with a thin sheet of paper and over etching with a lead pencil. Interesting project. This engine has been in storage until today, now it is in my garage and I am learning more and more. Tried to knock out the axel pin on the brake pedal, but it is SOLID. Don't what to break anything so. . . will study it some more.

I am also determining what I have. I only have TP 23 on the top marking place followed by a three bladed ax icon like often seen in British / Scottish battle axes, or it may be the liberty bell, cannot tell for certain. It came with an unattached eight hole fly wheel mount, but the inside mount is only four holes. If good, can it be used? The length of the engine head is 35".

This is my rebuilt engine. I note that the engine numbers are 1484929-2, the date "plate" is 10-31-51. Then there are the interesting 0 P with an inverted U below the P. THe P is large. From a post I read this C U would be a Car engine possilby a Chrysler. Am i reading the correctly. The bell housing numbers are: 519298-6 and its square of numbers are OD . So then I possilby have a 1951 engine block on a "Dodge" CD belhousing. The fly wheel has eight holes. Tomorrow I am going to put all the parts together and see what matches.

Reading past posts some engine and cab mounts seem to last longer than others. What are the recommended ones? AND what kind of paint is best for the engine and manifold. I like silver color. Finally what do I need to know to sever the clutch housing from the engine? Need to match tranny, clutch, and engine next.

To install the rebuilt engine I need some new engine mounts. Which are recommended? I will need the back two and the single mount on the triangular front piece.

Mine does not have truss rods and I took off one extra piece by the running board before I realized it was not necessary. Otherwise, it came off quite easily. Thankyou for the help.

My driver's side works fine, it is the passenger side and the handle will NOT move. So. . . it may be locked. Truck did not come with a key. . . locksmith I guess.

The 'dog house' is off. Was gonna lift it with the winch, then my adult son came by and in 15 minutes it was in the truck bed. To other novices, it is not that bad. The difficulty is old bolts. I have a dremmel with cutting discs and I use that to remove extremely difficult bolts. I cut half way through the twist them off. In short I am glad it took it off. I can now lay it upside down and clean it as well. I am not sure how I will clean the frame. Good lights first, then air hose, strong putty knife, and a good steel brush. I don't see any need to sand. CAB: Might be a nice time to put new mounts under it, does that make sense. I will NOT take it off, just too big. Well, thank you to each and all for guiding me through this. It really is enjoyable work. Will keep you informed. Engine is next. No pictures because you all know what it looks like.

Mine is the same, opens from the inside, not from the outside, passenger door. I thought maybe it was locked, but shouldn't it automatically unlock when opened from the inside.

Looked closely at the 'dog house' front fenders. It appears to remove one must: (1) unbolt at bottom rear corner of the fender well, (2) unbolt one bolt into the cab, this bolt is part of a brace which comes off with the finder, (3) unbolt two bolts behind the wheel, these bolts go into the frame, (4) unbolt two bolts on the cross member that supports the radiator, (5) repeat #'s 1 - 3. Since I still have my winch, it should not be difficult then to raise the entire unit off. What am I missing? If this is all, then the 'dog house' is coming off.

Dennis and Don: I considered removing the front but I'm not always real good at replacing some things. My back is OK but my knees are getting like my brain. Yet I may reconsider, it would also make it easier to install new disc brakes and shocks. Is that a fair statement?

I miswrote earlier, I am NOT doing a frame up, I'm just going for a nicely cleaned up truck so "keeping it simple soldier" is what I want. I will leave whatever amount of original coating that stays and then do some sort of over cover. Will the Rust-o-leum stick to that old material? If so, that will be my choice. Paul

I think Ross Perot years ago best described what is happening. He was referring to Washington D.C. when he said there was a ". . . big sucking sound back east!". The ". . .sucking sound" is also in the auto industry. But the 'big three' was building for the parts business not for durabilty and that caught up with them. I was a sales man for a mfg and complained about parts failure, their answer, " Don't you realize how many of those we sell a year? why would we want to lose that income?" I no longer work there. Yet I still have an 87 T Bird. When I finally parked it out back, it had 290,000 miles on it, still had the original spark plugs and plug wires, the original transmission and the engine still did not use oil. It had a 5.0 engine, with a sports suspension and still passed smog. Fun car to drive. Just couldn't part with it.

I also have access to a cherry picker. I can see where the device you show would be helpful, thanks. If you had the choice would you go cherry picker or your device?

I started with the short chain bolted at about mid center but did not have enough angle. Took it out all alone, no help. I see the wisdom in your suggestion, I did have to go HIGH!! Thanks for the tip. Oil on the fender! like a true novice, I did NOT drain the oil and it ran out and every where, but I am learning. Now I keep a pile of dirt under the truck and use it to soak up whatever. The attachment is the replacement engine. Need to check it out first, the repaint, etc. I am going to duplicate the color scheme on the $19,000 truck.

These are for the novices like me. I followed the directions given several months ago and the engine came out fine. I did remove the brake master cylinder but not much else. This engine is heavy!!!!!!!! I hope the pictures transfer.

This is a pic test on my 52 pickup.