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pflaming

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Everything posted by pflaming

  1. webmaster@ply33.com <webmaster@ply33.com> On the above site I read that the last Plymouth was built in 2001. That was a complete surprise! That Mopar dropped that name is numbing, at best. I wonder how many in the general public noticed that. After reading that and writing this, I still ask, "Is that really true?"
  2. Clements: Northern California, street address would be helpful.
  3. I live 30 minutes from Turners. Their number is 559 237 0918, ask for Jerry. His yard covers about 80 acres and he knows what he has. Prices are fair but I do NOT think you can pick your own parts. Was there on Saturday for some parts for my 89 Blazer. Saw a very nice late 30 mid 40 Desoto four door sedan. Turners is in Fresno CA. Rust is not common here, about 15 inches of rain a year, my father always said it was "drier than a pop-corn fart" in Fresno.
  4. Most interesting chain I have read in some time. I too remember my parents talking about Postum, Geritol, Spam, early margarine (when it was white). Getting old when we start remembering what we once tried to forget.
  5. Was visiting with a local who is known for his 'remaking' of old cars/trucks. He said one could take the drums/rotors to . . . and they punch out the holes to the new desired pattern.
  6. The political / sociological explanation of why the Scandanavians like large cars, and why they could or could not purchase them was a very nice bit of historical perspective. My roots are swedish so it had special interest for me. Thankyou for the insight.
  7. Sounds like it is a push and beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I am going to stay with two pieces, my preference remains with the original look. The 'pilot-house' body, in my opinion, does lend itself quite nicely to modern modifcations, but not for me. Most may know this, others not, but the 'pilot-house cab is 6 inches wider than Ford and Chevy of the same period, the bed is 6'4" which is longer than ForC, because of the front axle location, it will carry more weight, had electrical wipers vs vacuum, and probably more. Thanks for the replies.
  8. I see one piece windshields in some trucks. I will need two new windows so will need all the 'edge molds' as well, so. . . is there an economic advantage to a one piece when all is considered?
  9. Not a true restoration!! The last post is accurate; we are only going for street worthy without destroying the vintage truck. If it won't bolt on, it won't go on. I admire those of you who have the ability, time and money to RESTORE!, but do understand that some of us just want a dependable old truck something like we drove to high school. My brother and I drove a '38 3/4 T Chevy in Western Nebraska. It did NOT have: windshield wipers, heater, glass window on the driver's side, complete floor boards but we never got stuck and we never broke down, and we didn't have "paved roads"!!! So please do not get too narrow eyed at some of us who do not have skills or money some of you have. OK? I posted the document for its intended 'value' that is all. Having said all that, Happy New Year to All and keep posting, this is the best most positive and encouraging elctronic newspaper in the world and you guys are great!! Thank you for your advice.
  10. Bob, next time you come down, call, we'll do lunch. My friend put a 61 -72 Ford Country Squire Station Wagon: ratio 3.0:1; brakes 11 x 2.50. This axel bolts in without modification. It should cruise @ 70 mph @ 2500 rpm. Use 15’ 31050 tires on the rear. I am going to do the same.
  11. We are both using the stock 218 cu, inline six and the standard three speed tranny. We both have extra four speeds but do not need the weight nor the low speed.
  12. A friend who is restoring a BIB like mine sent me this information. I share it with you. I copied it to a word document. Happy Moparing! Paragraph 1. a. Remove the driveshaft at the rear u-joint pinion yoke. Band the loose u-joint caps with electrical tape to keep them in place. DO NOT let the caps fall off, you could loose the needle bearing inside. Mark the caps on the cap itself and on the yoke so the u-joint will be placed back in same position. b. Remove driveshaft at transmission by unbolting the flange at the emergency brake drum. Mark its position on the flange and the brake drum as previous step for same reasons. c. Unbolt the transmission from the bell housing, slide the trans back out of the clutch assembly, and lower to ground. This leaves the engine itself alone in the vehicle to be removed as a single unit, when the access is gained by floorboard removal, hood removal, fan removal, and radiator removal essentially in that sequence as previously noted in a preceding message today. d. If there is any question of quality in the condition of the transmission.....take it to a qualified source to have it appraised and/or repaired. That can be done by an outside source, while you progress with your taking apart the rest of the vehicle as you intend. e. Reassembly should be easy if things are marked, you have a clear picture of what is going on, and your methods and knowledge are thorough; if you have doubts about your capacity, engage a good helper with sound mechanical knowledge and/or experience. The extent of your plans is far more detailed than a novice should undertake alone; I say this because I don't know your mechanical background......the physical element is a total difference from a textbook or classroom setting. I personally lack in technical expertise, say rebuilding an engine internally; but I know and have hands-on credibility from professional experience in removal and replacement of parts and components.....as in the case of installing my 9-inch Ford rear-end from a car into a different make pickup. In the case of my engine and transmission, I have driven it in its original chassis; that gave me reason to know it ran well, and saw no reason to go internally on either component.....engine or transmission.....only you can evaluate your situation, and determine how deep into mechanical reconditioning in terms of time and money. Paragraph 2. f. A statement on transmission condition is in item "d" above. g. Paint the transmission at any time before reassembly into the vehicle is planned; either a spray can, brush, professional shop depending on your preference level. h. The 3-speed is synchronized only between 2 and 3 for up or down shifts, NOT low gear. j. Stay with the Dodge for simplicity and convenience; transplanting a foreign unit from a Chev or ? can be time consuming and expensive; any modification can make a good can of worms, especially when odd parts are adapted to fit. My rear end transplant was a different kind of undertaking and follows the simplicity I recommend. Paragraph 3. k. Old wiring harness.....gut it; replace it with an aftermarket assembly like Painless wiring....anything good and complete from an easily found supplier; convert to 12 volt in the process. Your 6 volt starter is strong enough to hold limited cranking from a 12 volt supply.....or look for a starter off a flathead 6 like in a 57-59 car (the flathead was 12v then) but discontinued in domestic production in 1960. I had my old starter converted to 12v guts by a local auto electric shop for about $100 about 5 years ago. Old wiring systems probably can be salvaged, but I chose a new system for my own. And one last item.....brakes, not covered. Ford brakes on the rear-end I installed are far superior to the OEM Dodge pu. The Dodge emergency brake is on the tail of the transmission, so no worry about connecting it; my rear brakes are updated with new Ford parts, which are more readily available for aging items. The front will be converted using a combination of GM and Chrysler parts in an available marketed kit with instructions. It will summarily have the same wheel lug pattern as the original Dodge hubs front and back; in the 50s, 60s, and early 70s the 5 lug on 4.5 circle was common to Dodge 1/2T, mopar cars, and many Ford cars. The biggest job here is the plumbing of additional brake lines, portioning valves....since the system on my pu has a dual reservoir from a later Chrysler car for update safety reasons over the old single reservoir on the 51 pu. I feel I am within bounds of my capability and resource to accomplish this feat. You can make this project easy and fun, or cumbersome and costly, depending on your determination level and the detail you want to achieve. My advice is keeping it simple within the boundaries of my expertise, pocket book, and game plan. My objective is to make a retro-hotrod, mechanically sound in the style and mode available to us in the 50s.
  13. Is the sound effect as fussy if the system is a single pipe and mufflerAnd is there enough performance benefit to pay the extra cost for dual pipes?
  14. I had a '50 Plymouth, lived in Western Nebr and it always started. Dad told me to keep the gas tank fuller in winter so I did. On one of our old vehicals we had an electric backup fuel pump and that can really help. Remember gas evaporates faster in cold weather so the carb "could' evaporate so a good fuel pump is required. Does your hood have good insultation in it? As mentioned earlier, we also ran 10 wt oil in the winter January on. . .
  15. That top chopped really makes the truck look 'modern' , at least masculine, or a kind "in your face". I like it. Any idea what a chop like that costs?
  16. Reg's place approaches being a 'shrine'!!!
  17. Now we are getting somewhere. So (1) different motor mounts, and (2) be advised to put in a new oil pump just as a cautionary measure. NOW: engine to tranny.... I have a three speed in my '52 1/2 ton pickup and I have a four speed on the shop floor. Will either work? If I put in the four speed and a high speed rear end then I have a nice 1st gear for . . . top gears are the same: gear three (3) ='s gear four (4); correct? I think Dad liked the slant six because of its crank shaft and bearings which were superior to the slant six AND the power factor. What is the validity of these?
  18. Been following this chain and conclude that swapping a slant six into a 48 - 54 Dodge car or truck is not all that easy. Is my conclusion valid?
  19. Does the slant six fit into the 48 - 55 Dodge cars and trucks quite easily? Dad had a slant six pickup and was very high on it.
  20. If you disassemble the box, which you would want to do, then most any 'coater' will have an oven large enough. The side panels on many packaging machines are larger than the side panels on the box. You might as well do the fenders also, they will take the biggest beating. Remember you can powder coat with a clear coat also, so one could powder coat on a patina surface. Also remember that powder coating is baked into the metal which means that pits and scratches will show, so prepare, prepare, prepare. Good luck!
  21. Reading about the mufflers caused me to recall when I put smittys on my dad's 56 Ford V-8 without his knowledge. The over drive was out so he went to North Platte, NE to get the OD fixed. A viaduct was enroute and when he came off the viaduct he woke up half of the town. He told the garage to check out the loud exhaust while they were fixing the OD. When he was told what was under there, he was not a happy camper. I lost my smittys and was told never to fix anything on his cars again. I would have loved to hear those pipes coming off of that viaduct!!!!!!
  22. My truck has the "3 on the tree" shift. Does that mean it may then have a tranny like that on a car? My inquisiveness is caused by a desire to stay old school yet to put a better engine in and a different rear end to get me a nice comfortable 65+ mph which is desirable in California.
  23. Since the engines (flat heads) were the same, then the differences are in the trannies and the rear ends, correct?
  24. My friend had a flat 6, V-8's didn't come out until '56 if I recall correctly. Is/are the automobile engines different?
  25. When I was in high school a student got a '55 plymouth for graduation. To my recollection that car as quite fast! Question: Will the engine, tranny, rearend fit into a '52 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup truck?
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